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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: High power IR diodes - tested, pressed into modules, leads soldered.






Hey, RHD, you sure that #10 was 780nm? I recently got those goggles from o-like (590-780nm goggles) and the power wasn't reduced at all when I put the goggles in front of the diode.
 
yeah I saw those, its wether they fit Aixiz modules...
 
Just bare in mind that any lens you use , thats readily available (not tried the G-1 / G-2) is going to halve the output power as no one seems to know what lens to use with these.

I have a 780nm ar coated lens on its way to me and i'll post the results.
 
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I am using my 660nm ar coated lens right now with the build I just finished with this, and I am getting a nice 700mW or so out of it! I think the current is around 1.05A or so.
 
I am using my 660nm ar coated lens right now with the build I just finished with this, and I am getting a nice 700mW or so out of it! I think the current is around 1.05A or so.

(#10) 1,200 mW @ 1.45 A - $24 (Wolfman29 - paid - shipped)


Is that for that one ? ^^

If you could get an accurate reading at the advertised current in / P out that would help, at 1.05A thats a respectable output , so i would imagine that at the rated current, you'd allmost be on spec.
 
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Yup, it's that one. I would do some more testing, but I kinda finished the build, and taking it apart may cause damage :\

The idea behind my build is that it has essentially two modes. 1050mA, and 1350mA. I can test the 1350mA if it wants to cooperate (the driver will heat up a lot more at that current, so... yeah).
 
well at the current/ P out youve indicated your bang on target, is it an Aixiz lens?
 
Did another test, actually around 650mW for the 1050mA. Nonetheless, it's still pretty good for an Aixiz lens.
 
Thats still good considering the current your running it at, and its a standard Aixiz 660nm lens yeah?
 
I'm still not satisfied here - a 50% loss due to optics is really not terribly good.

The implication is that 50% of the output power is being absorbed by the lens itself. In reality that probably means the inside walls of the lens casing, or perhaps even the bottom edge of the lens casing and/or the walls of the aixis module. Essentially, I think this comes does to the fact that the lenses we're using don't get close enough to the emitter/diode.

I *think* this implies that a lens with a shorter focal length would allow for positioning closer to the emitter, which would (if I'm correct about the above) allow us to capture more of the output.

EDIT: Here's a great thread on point that I just found. It seems to confirm my logic from above:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f49/focal-length-aixiz-acrylic-lens-34018-2.html

It's an old thread though, and they stopped short of identifying what an appropriate shorter focus length lens would be, although they do suggest that the lens out of an optical sled is a decent choice. I'm skeptical that this would hold up for our high powered IRs here.

Does anyone know what the specs on our 445 "free" glass lenses that come out of the projectors are? seems as though they would be a short focal length.
 
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Hmm... I remember reading somewhere that you should use two standard acrylic lenses. Take the first one and screw it all the way inside so it is right up against the diode and then use the other one for focusing. I never really knew why, but now I get it. The first one catches all the light and tightens the spread of the beam so it all makes it into the second focusing lens.
 
Does anyone know what the specs on our 445 "free" glass lenses that come out of the projectors are? seems as though they would be a short focal length.

^^ thats not a bad idea..

Hmm... I remember reading somewhere that you should use two standard acrylic lenses. Take the first one and screw it all the way inside so it is right up against the diode and then use the other one for focusing. I never really knew why, but now I get it. The first one catches all the light and tightens the spread of the beam so it all makes it into the second focusing lens.


^^ and that DOES make sence, i might try that at a lower power so as not to melt the lens/ housing.
 


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