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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: ~650mW 638nm, in camo 501B: $80

Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

I know his sounds cheapskate but the bidding has to start somewhere.20$ for the green.
Dont hate me.
 





Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

^^^FYI this isnt ebay, its not highest bidder wins. Its most reasonable offer gets the laser(s)
 
Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

I bow to your advice but just point out.there have been bidding wars on lpf before and at least i helped his thread move along.rather than stagnate.
 
Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

Sorry I'm new here and if this question sounds ridiculous you can bitch at me about it haha. How much work goes into changing the diode? What kind of tools are needed?
 
Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

You need a new driver and diode aka you change out the whole guts aka your better off building from scratch
 
Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

^^^lol I forgot you had the dominator still for sale :/

I just woke up and thought he wanted to swap say the 520 for a 445, idk what I'm thinking. Carry on
 
Re: FS: DominatoR, 520nm, and 638nm.

I dont need the battery ;) as Ives got plenty of 18650s
 
Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Wow just unscrewed the tail cap of my dominator and must have touched the spring and got a quick flash of light. Well why did that totally fry my diode. 9mm dead. Another dominator in the graveyard. Wtf!! So pissed
 
Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Ouch, I feel your pain. Do you have a soldering Iron and heat shrink tube? with that stuff you could fix it. get a new 9mm in a module from DTR if you can't press a diode yourself, with the leads. I can tell you how to get the dominator apart without twisting the leads or tearing them out, all you need is the right size hex key and something pointy and metal to turn the driver pill. You could cut the leads coming from the driver pill, that way you shouldn't need to mess with it, it should be simpler to connect a new diode with pre soldered leads the the cut leads from the driver. connect them like any basic soldering instruction on how to solder two wires together would tell you, just remember to put the heat shrink on first

I'm going to replace mine with the current generation 9mm diode I have and when I have the money, I'll get one of the new 9mm diodes. for that I'll want to have the back of diode heatsink worked out, though I think 2.5A will be a perfect running current, so my same driver will power the better diode and at a safer current than I am sure other members will be driving them at. that should still give me over 4W
 
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Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

I'm good. Already apart. I have it ready to accept the diode. No biggie I'm just pissed. Just put the driver on a test load and it's pushing 2.56a. That is pretty high. No wonder yours degrade. I also put the diode on my power supply to make sure and it's definitely dead. Just a matter of buying the diode now.

I appreciate the offer though. Yeah i have a soldering iron and shrink wrap. I've built many of the laser I have/sold. So the technical side isn't the issue, it the money. And the fact it was such a stupid way to kill the diode
 
Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Haha that is funny.

Hey at 2.56a it's calling for a 1w green! I already have a bunch of blue monsters, a big green would be nice. That driver is nicely inside the pill. Looks like it can handle some heat.

Haha bird-osaur...
 
Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

I actually had to take my pill apart, it is heat sinked very well and put in there very well with thermal paste. Blord did it in such a way that it's impossible for it to come loose as the little heatsink thermal pasted on makes it tall enough to press against the battery contact board, which it was thermal pasted to. very solid, just wish I had not accidentally ripped the leads off of mine, IDK if I can get it out or solder new leads while it is in there. I'm afraid it's thermal glued so well I will break it if I try to pry it out

I hear those 520 give off more heat, if you go that rout, which I think everyone would love to see, make sure to do the back of diode heatsink thing too
 
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Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Yeah I hear the 520 efficiency is garbage. I'll have to look into that heatsink thing. Man. I thought I was doing something good taking the cells out. If I just left them in! Ahhhhhhh. Lol oh well.

I have 8 of sinners pens coming, and 4 marble zasers to build. I guess I'm adding this to the project list
 
Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Maybe I'll go the 520 rout with mine too, i mean, it is a 12.7~ troy ounce copper heat sink, that's over a troy pound.
I think I'd rather have 4W of 445 than 1.4W of 520, as cool and bright as I'm sure it is. One of those will probably be down the road.

thinkin of it now, if they do give off more heat, maybe the dominator is better suited to the 520 and I can just get a ricktrent kit with the new 445nm
 
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Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

And 2.56 would give you around 1.5w of green glory lol. I was surprised it was running that high though. Blord tells everyone 2.4-2.5a.... Not 2.5-2.6a. But I guess the heatsink driver is able to handle it. I have my maglite for my new 445nm build. It heatsink is about 3-4lbs. And it has a driver pocket milled into it. So it should handle 3-3.5a nicely . I'll save the dominator for the 520... The maglite has a current 9mm in it now, and it's like a joke lol. I can run it very long without it getting warm at all.
 
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Re: FS: 520nm, and 638nm, in 501Bs with GITD FA

Tmack said:
Wow just unscrewed the tail cap of my dominator and must have touched the spring and got a quick flash of light. Well why did that totally fry my diode. 9mm dead. Another dominator in the graveyard. Wtf!! So pissed
Click to expand...

Would you mind detailing what happened? I'd hate if I ever did that to mine.
 
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