Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers
Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations
Links below open in new window
FrozenGate by Avery
FS: >110mW PHR, >140mW 4x & >170mW 6x Blu-Rays
- Thread starter IgorT
- Start date
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >90mW Blu-Rays, two models: OPEN
It depends on the circumstances. Outside at night, the beam of a blu ray is more visible, than with a 200mW red, but the spot is brighter with the red. The visibility of both still depends on the air. I don't know how dry it is down under tho. Use some incense. The beams can best be enjoyed with a medium.
However, if you can burn stuff and feel the heat of the unfocused beam on your skin, then yes, it is supposed to be like that.
P.S. Li-Ions may work in that torch, but i think they damage it. After you put a Li-Ion in, the torch becomes less bright on an 1.5V battery.
It depends on the circumstances. Outside at night, the beam of a blu ray is more visible, than with a 200mW red, but the spot is brighter with the red. The visibility of both still depends on the air. I don't know how dry it is down under tho. Use some incense. The beams can best be enjoyed with a medium.
However, if you can burn stuff and feel the heat of the unfocused beam on your skin, then yes, it is supposed to be like that.
P.S. Li-Ions may work in that torch, but i think they damage it. After you put a Li-Ion in, the torch becomes less bright on an 1.5V battery.
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >90mW Blu-Rays, two models: OPEN
Oh, i got the first lens samples. And i'm waiting for two more models, one of which will be finished this week, the other one just has to be shipped to me, if i understood correctly.
Then i will select the best one from the three. With the first one, the power increase is 20%.
The other two are supposed to have even better optical properties, and a material with a higher transmittance, so i can't wait to test those as well!
I already posted this in the GB feeler thread, but i guess it doesn't hurt to show the pretties here as well. Especially, since you guys are the ones, who supported this project from the start, and made it possible at all!
These are the four samples i have now. Two are 405nm, two are multilayer coated for 400-750nm. In both pictures the 405nm are the two on the left and the ML are the two on the right.
I have not even managed to test the ML yet, as i have too much work at the moment - i have to pay for all this!
P.S. It is very hard to capture the coatings on my camera. They look pink or purple, slightly reddish, and the ML a little orange-golden. But the background has to be dark to see the reflection. I will try to make another picture with a better camera.
Oh, i got the first lens samples. And i'm waiting for two more models, one of which will be finished this week, the other one just has to be shipped to me, if i understood correctly.
Then i will select the best one from the three. With the first one, the power increase is 20%.
The other two are supposed to have even better optical properties, and a material with a higher transmittance, so i can't wait to test those as well! I already posted this in the GB feeler thread, but i guess it doesn't hurt to show the pretties here as well. Especially, since you guys are the ones, who supported this project from the start, and made it possible at all!
These are the four samples i have now. Two are 405nm, two are multilayer coated for 400-750nm. In both pictures the 405nm are the two on the left and the ML are the two on the right.
I have not even managed to test the ML yet, as i have too much work at the moment - i have to pay for all this!
P.S. It is very hard to capture the coatings on my camera. They look pink or purple, slightly reddish, and the ML a little orange-golden. But the background has to be dark to see the reflection. I will try to make another picture with a better camera.
Attachments
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2008
- Messages
- 128
- Points
- 18
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
Wow cool lences
20% 
and the other ones will bee even better ;D MOOR POWER
Wow cool lences
20% and the other ones will bee even better ;D MOOR POWER 
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2008
- Messages
- 1,402
- Points
- 0
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
Hehe, yes, this way i can then select the best one out of three for you guys!
wickedALEX said:Wow cool lences
Hehe, yes, this way i can then select the best one out of three for you guys!
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
Cool! Checking it now..
VillageIdiot said:
Cool! Checking it now..
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
It's easy, really..
You just say "I want one too!"....
But seriously, you find my email address in my profile, and write an email with your shipping info in it.
Make sure to include your forum name in the email, and the shipping address in the FIRST one, as i usually have 70-90 emails with everyone, so it's hard to find the info if it's not in the right place.
It's easy, really..
You just say "I want one too!"....
But seriously, you find my email address in my profile, and write an email with your shipping info in it.
Make sure to include your forum name in the email, and the shipping address in the FIRST one, as i usually have 70-90 emails with everyone, so it's hard to find the info if it's not in the right place.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2008
- Messages
- 1,809
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
you should make a website igorT... would help a lot with sorting information. osCommerce and zencart are really good free shopping cart systems.
let me know if you want any help, i've made a few zencarts already
good luck
you should make a website igorT... would help a lot with sorting information. osCommerce and zencart are really good free shopping cart systems.
let me know if you want any help, i've made a few zencarts already
good luck
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
The other ones are made of a higher transmittance glass (with a lower refractive index), but they are also a bit thicker, just because of that, so it might not be that much more.
The thing that makes them better is their shape. They are aspheric, so they have the same FL over the entire diameter. This means the beam will be better, than otherwise, with nothing going off to the sides. But this also means, that what goes off to the sides with spherical lenses, will go forward with aspherical ones! So somewhat more than 20% is possible!
wickedALEX said:Wow cool lences
The other ones are made of a higher transmittance glass (with a lower refractive index), but they are also a bit thicker, just because of that, so it might not be that much more.
The thing that makes them better is their shape. They are aspheric, so they have the same FL over the entire diameter. This means the beam will be better, than otherwise, with nothing going off to the sides. But this also means, that what goes off to the sides with spherical lenses, will go forward with aspherical ones! So somewhat more than 20% is possible!
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
Once again:
Please do not attempt to clean the window for no reason! Nor the lens! Don't clean it if it ain't dirty!
It is often the "cleaning", that makes it dirty in the first place, and sometimes for no reason!
Canned air is the worst thing you can do! It contains impurities, like oils and particular garbage! Do not use cleaning liquids or solvents!
Only analysis grade (not technical grade!) solvents should ever be used on a barelly moist q-tip! And only if REALLY required!
Cloths meant to clean your sunglasses, are another one of the worst things! They contain ALL the oils you cleaned off your sunglasses so far! The results may look great on your glasses, but the relationships here are different.
When switching the lenses, please make sure you dont hold the laser with the diode pointing up - so stuff can't fall on it - and make sure there are no particles on the lens nut, that could fall in. Make sure there is no dust on the spring, before putting it back in! The best way to have a clean window is not to make it dirty in the first place.
If you think there is something there, firs make sure WHERE it is!
If it turns with the lens, it's on the lens - leave the window alone!
If it turns with the laser, but not the lens, it is on the window.
I have so far managed to get my personal blu ray diode window clean every single time, simply by using a dry fresh clean q-tip:
(compact, tightly wound q-tips, NOT q-tips with fibers shooting out in all directions!)
- hold the laser upside down - diode pointing DOWN
- take a fresh, clean, dry, untouched q-tip DO NOT TOUCH THE SIDE YOU WILL USE!!!! AVOID CROSS CONTAMINATION!
- GENTLY touch the q-tip in the middle of the diode window
- Turn a little WHILE pulling away! NO PRESSURE on the window, you are not trying to touch the window, you're just trying to collect the particles so they stick to the q-tip!
- Test the no lens output on a desk - faint concentric circles are good, dark gaps are particles on the window
- If gaps are left, repeat with a NEW FRESH, CLEAN, DRY, UNTOUCHED q-tip and repeat. No force!
Only do this, if there really are gaps in the output! Do not do this for no reason please! Tiny particles on the window are so close to the diode, that they can cause relativelly large gaps in the unfocused dot.
Please don't use the line-lens unless you are 100% sure, you can do it without getting dust in between the lens and the diode! Enjoy the laser for a week first!
P.S. I read on the forum, that the windows on these diodes are easy to push in.. If you wrap something on a pencil, to clean the window, you really might push it in. But a q-tip is too big to exert any real force on the window itself - the opening prevents it. Still, do not use force.
Also make sure, the q-tips you use are compact and tightly wrapped, not the soft kind with fibers spreading two feet in all directions! And make sure you don't touch the inner threads of the module, or fibers will stay in the module, and you'll have to pick them out.
But most importantly: Ask first, do later! If you're not sure, ask! Otherwise, by the time you ask, it will most likelly be worse.
Once again:
Please do not attempt to clean the window for no reason! Nor the lens! Don't clean it if it ain't dirty!
It is often the "cleaning", that makes it dirty in the first place, and sometimes for no reason!
Canned air is the worst thing you can do! It contains impurities, like oils and particular garbage! Do not use cleaning liquids or solvents!
Only analysis grade (not technical grade!) solvents should ever be used on a barelly moist q-tip! And only if REALLY required!
Cloths meant to clean your sunglasses, are another one of the worst things! They contain ALL the oils you cleaned off your sunglasses so far! The results may look great on your glasses, but the relationships here are different.
When switching the lenses, please make sure you dont hold the laser with the diode pointing up - so stuff can't fall on it - and make sure there are no particles on the lens nut, that could fall in. Make sure there is no dust on the spring, before putting it back in! The best way to have a clean window is not to make it dirty in the first place.
If you think there is something there, firs make sure WHERE it is!
If it turns with the lens, it's on the lens - leave the window alone!
If it turns with the laser, but not the lens, it is on the window.
I have so far managed to get my personal blu ray diode window clean every single time, simply by using a dry fresh clean q-tip:
(compact, tightly wound q-tips, NOT q-tips with fibers shooting out in all directions!)
- hold the laser upside down - diode pointing DOWN
- take a fresh, clean, dry, untouched q-tip DO NOT TOUCH THE SIDE YOU WILL USE!!!! AVOID CROSS CONTAMINATION!
- GENTLY touch the q-tip in the middle of the diode window
- Turn a little WHILE pulling away! NO PRESSURE on the window, you are not trying to touch the window, you're just trying to collect the particles so they stick to the q-tip!
- Test the no lens output on a desk - faint concentric circles are good, dark gaps are particles on the window
- If gaps are left, repeat with a NEW FRESH, CLEAN, DRY, UNTOUCHED q-tip and repeat. No force!
Only do this, if there really are gaps in the output! Do not do this for no reason please! Tiny particles on the window are so close to the diode, that they can cause relativelly large gaps in the unfocused dot.
Please don't use the line-lens unless you are 100% sure, you can do it without getting dust in between the lens and the diode! Enjoy the laser for a week first!
P.S. I read on the forum, that the windows on these diodes are easy to push in.. If you wrap something on a pencil, to clean the window, you really might push it in. But a q-tip is too big to exert any real force on the window itself - the opening prevents it. Still, do not use force.
Also make sure, the q-tips you use are compact and tightly wrapped, not the soft kind with fibers spreading two feet in all directions! And make sure you don't touch the inner threads of the module, or fibers will stay in the module, and you'll have to pick them out.
But most importantly: Ask first, do later! If you're not sure, ask! Otherwise, by the time you ask, it will most likelly be worse.
IgorT
0
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Messages
- 4,177
- Points
- 0
Re: FS: >110mW Blu-Rays - available
Since some of you asked, i prepared a simple drawing to explain the focusing into a tiny spot for burning.
There is no universal position of the lens for the tiniest spot. Where the tiniest spot is, depends on the position of the lens. It's exactly there, where ALL the beams cross. If you put an object there, all of the beams will hit the same spot, and warm it up enough for it to burn. The energy density is the highest at this spot.
Look at the drawing:
- Normally, you want to have a beam focused to infinity (a parallel beam, that has the "same" diameter "all the way").
- If you then turn the focusing ring a little (in the direction, which would unscrew the lens - it moves the lens further away from the diode). Then, the beam will start wide, and gradually get narrower. At a certain point "all" the beams cross, and if you position the laser so that it is that "exact" distance from the object, it will burn the object. After the point where the beams cross, the beam starts diverging at the same rate as it converged, so the spot on a wal will be large.
- If you turn the lens a little more, the beam goes narrower faster, the beams cross closer to the laser, and you can burn from up close. Since it converges faster, it will also diverge faster, and the spot on the wall will be huge! Burning from up close is easier, than from a distance. But don't light matches from too close, as they explode into flames, and eject particulate matter, which could stick to the lens or damage it.
Besides, if you focus too close, the lens can be so far away from the diode, that it no longer collects all of the light.
Anyway, hope it helps....
Since some of you asked, i prepared a simple drawing to explain the focusing into a tiny spot for burning.
There is no universal position of the lens for the tiniest spot. Where the tiniest spot is, depends on the position of the lens. It's exactly there, where ALL the beams cross. If you put an object there, all of the beams will hit the same spot, and warm it up enough for it to burn. The energy density is the highest at this spot.
Look at the drawing:
- Normally, you want to have a beam focused to infinity (a parallel beam, that has the "same" diameter "all the way").
- If you then turn the focusing ring a little (in the direction, which would unscrew the lens - it moves the lens further away from the diode). Then, the beam will start wide, and gradually get narrower. At a certain point "all" the beams cross, and if you position the laser so that it is that "exact" distance from the object, it will burn the object. After the point where the beams cross, the beam starts diverging at the same rate as it converged, so the spot on a wal will be large.
- If you turn the lens a little more, the beam goes narrower faster, the beams cross closer to the laser, and you can burn from up close. Since it converges faster, it will also diverge faster, and the spot on the wall will be huge! Burning from up close is easier, than from a distance. But don't light matches from too close, as they explode into flames, and eject particulate matter, which could stick to the lens or damage it.
Besides, if you focus too close, the lens can be so far away from the diode, that it no longer collects all of the light.
Anyway, hope it helps....
Attachments
