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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: 07E in a ehgemus host

Just shoot it at a wall a known distance away (25 or more feet away for a more accurate number) then measure the diameter of the spot it makes in both polarities, using the larger of the two numbers you can get the divergence for the fast axis, which is what I would use, but you could calculate the divergence for both axis if you measure both. Calculating divergence is easy once you get those two numbers. To make it even easier, look for the divergence calculator in my signature and input the numbers.

My guess is it is somewhere between 2.5 and 3.5 mRad if using a 6mm diameter collimating lens.
 





Thanks. It was a little hard to measure with not having a on switch. Had to get a second pair of eyes. Using your calc I got 2.7.
 
fknRAIDEN said:
Thanks. It was a little hard to measure with not having a on switch. Had to get a second pair of eyes. Using your calc I got 2.7.
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Nice. Imagine... with g2 lens it would be like 7 mrad lol. G2 sucks. 3 element ftw
 
Every time you double the beam diameter the mRad is reduced by half, the reason a G2 would produce a higher divergence is simply due to its shorter focal length, because of that the beam output of the diode doesn't expand as far and thus is not as wide before collimation, but at the same time none of it is cut off inside the barrel and due to having only one element, less loss too.
 
I always wonder why people ask for the divergenice of known diodes that have already been measured before with both 3 element and G2 lenses. Why would it be any different from anyone elses?
 
Sta said:
- Where was the picture with no lens taken? Was there any dust in the room?
- Is the button momentary or toggle?
- Are there any stripes of no light in the diode output?
Click to expand...

Ah, I see someone else has noticed the missing stripes as these wear, these diodes I fully believe have some inert gas backfill, they live shorter lives with the GBall removed, and running without a lens is very hard on them, or so it seems.
 
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