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Flexdrive pot issue

oic0

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No testload for my setup since the driver max power would still be safe. I soldered the three resistors together and broke off the end one (it popped off when the solder touched it really). I didnt know the pot was a single turn piece (dumb I know, its tiny! I shoulda known), using a small light screw driver I turned it and never really felt any resistance. Anyhow, now the laser seems to be at about what I would guess is 500mw or so and I havent had any luck raising its power (arctic blows it out of the water beam visibility wise, takes a sec to burn trashbag even focused).

I want ~1200ma. I assume my pot is broken from being spun around all the way a few times? should I order a microboost preset at 1200 to replace it and chalk this one up to the price of education?


 



RA_pierce

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Your driver is set to the 412-1.5A range, correct? That's what it looks like.
What is all the gunk covering your driver?

Make sure there are no shorts and that your solder welds are clean.
The exposed copper wire at the positive input looks dangerous.

From your description it sounds like much less than 500mW. Tell us more about what you have set up.
 

oic0

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Your driver is set to the 412-1.5A range, correct? That's what it looks like.
What is all the gunk covering your driver?

Make sure there are no shorts and that your solder welds are clean.
The exposed copper wire at the positive input looks dangerous.

From your description it sounds like much less than 500mW. Tell us more about what you have set up.
The gunk is thermal pad. It conducts heat away and electrically insulates the driver though in that picture ive peeled it back and mangled it a bit. The way I did the wires was to loop them through the holes and then solder on one side. I did alternate sides though because it was easier to get to each that way. The bare looking one is soldered on the other side.
The laser works good, doesnt get hot, just seems down on power. I dont think the driver is asking for much though since the laser isnt getting hot and my battery is kinda crappy but it hasnt complained yet like I thought it would (pot should be set at ~1.5 amps I think if it were working, is almost all the way clockwise. I heard they pulse there if the battery sucks).
 

jander6442

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I would continue the blob across that last pad on the bottom. I see that you have the resister missing still for the "highest" range you'll have to continue that solder
bridge.

That brings up the issue that you would have to redummie load the driver to get it's official setting.
 

bobhaha

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Yep like jander6442 said, you still have to bridge the connection from the last resistor to the bottom pad seen on your picture... like this



and that exposed wire should be covered by heat shrink tubing... that is very unprofessional and can cause a short!
 

oic0

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Ahh, the wording in the manual made me think it was scrape it off or solder it but not both. I'll put a solder blob there and try again.
 
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iknitsteel

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Btw the micro boost only goes up to 1 amp or 1000mA I have mine turnet all the way and getting 1085mA out of it but it also has thermal protection
 
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oic0

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I finally got a solder blob to stick there. It didnt want to stick because there was a bit of residue there.
Anyhow, I think its much hotter now. No LPM but it seems much better. I also thought about taking it back apart and getting the diode to sit flush in the heatsink but I sort of like it poking out a bit, makes focus super easy though it does make the setup a little more fragile.
 

Pontiacg5

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Btw the micro boost only goes up to 1 amp or l000mA I have mine turnet all the way and getting 1085mA out of it but it also has thermal protection
The micro can push 1200mA if you know what to solder :D
 




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