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FrozenGate by Avery

First Laser

Hello guys,

I'm still waiting for my laser diode that I bought :cool:

So I decided to start buying the parts for my driver. I visited my local electronics store. First of all they didn't have a "Capacitor 1mf 16V" so I bought a "Capacitor 1uf 63V" is that one okay too? With the regulator there where some problems to because they had 4 different LM317'. So I ordered the LM317t. And final the diode: they didn't have the 1N4001, only the 1N4007, is that one okay too? What is the difference between those 2?


Can't wait for my laser diode to come :D

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 





Hey redsteel, it should actually be a 10micro-farad capacitor. and as for the diode situation. the 1N4007 has a higher rated forward voltage, i am not sure if that will work. here is a link in case you understand the differences or another member could chime in

http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds28002.pdf
 
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And another question: The pic that Larry gave me, can I directely hook up the diode to that driver, or do I need to adjust something?

Thx, guys for all your help.

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 
Please help me guys, ^^ I would like to order the stuff and build it before I'm going on vacation.

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 
Redsteel said:
Please help me guys, ^^ I would like to order the stuff and build it before I'm going on vacation.

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
Click to expand...


You need a test load to set the current on your driver. Here is a schematic for the test load. All of these parts are sold at radioshack. Hope this helps.

-Mike
 

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technically you can just hook it up. but the responsible choice is to use the test load that cust11 is giving you.

also i can not read your web pages they are in a foreign language.
 
chipdouglas said:
technically you can just hook it up. but the responsible choice is to use the test load that cust11 is giving you.

also i can not read your web pages they are in a foreign language.
Click to expand...


I killed my first PHR because I didn't set the current on a test load. I thought "aww hell with it 3/4 turn wont be too much" (on a rkcstr!).. which is like 310mA.... it lasted about 5minutes. I will say.. it was the most clear PHR beam I am seen!...not worth it to not test unless you like unanswered questions and a hole in your pocket :(

-Mike
 
i agree. but i was just giving a direct answer. but i did advise him that it is not smart.
 
chipdouglas said:
the 1N4007 has a higher rated forward voltage
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It has a higher rated reverse voltage, i.e. it will survive 1000V connected "the wrong way", while the 1N4001 would break down at 50V. The forward voltage of standard silicium diodes is always around 0.7V (depending on the current).

The difference in the various LM317s will be mostly the package (and max current), the LM317T is ok unless you want a small build (it's the one in LarryDFWs picture).

Both capacitor and diode are not really needed. The capacitor should probably be 1uF anyway (=1 Mikro-Farad, should be abbreviated with the greek letter mu, which is not available here). You can read the application notes in the datasheet about the use of capacitors. The gist is that only tantalum capacitors provide any benefit.
 
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Ok guys, thx for the info about the test load ^^.

Sry for the wrong links, I still don't know wich capacitor to use. Which one of these can I chose best? Thx.

First one is 16v 100uf
Second one is 16V 22uf
Third one is 16v 10uf


Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 

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Welcome to the forum ! 2 and 3 look like tantalums but looks can be deciving, if they are tantalums either will work fine as you are just trying to catch a SPIKE here not trying to tune a ckt. good luck and happy lasing.

Peace All...


Redsteel said:
Ok guys, thx for the info about the test load ^^.

Sry for the wrong links, I still don't know wich capacitor to use. Which one of these can I chose best? Thx.

First one is 16v 100uf
Second one is 16V 22uf
Third one is 16v 10uf


Kindest Regards,

Dominik
Click to expand...
 
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Since its your first build like mine as well, why not go for a Lava MicroFlexDrive V4 instead of building your own the first time. Since there's a learning curve for us, if it were me, I would first construct my first build to get hands-on experience first. After the first build then plan on making my own DDL Driver.

Good luck on your build! :)
 
I'm going to try to build LarryDFWs driver. And then see what will happen. Will post some pics when its done. :yh:

(btw, 1 Ohm resistor is difficult to find out here :D)

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 
Hello guys, I removed the diode from the sled and pressed it in the Aixiz laser housing. I'm waiting for my parts for my driver.

My question: Is there anything possible to test my diode? Can I put a low voltage on it? Like 1 AA batterie or so?


Thx.


Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 
And something else: why would I use a dummy-load if I can't adjust anything on my driver that I'm building? Or is it just to see if it works?

Kindest Regards,

Dominik
 
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