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FrozenGate by Avery

First laser scanner

The_Muffin_Man said:
Good good...Just to clarify( g(1) = ground 1):

G(1) 5V G(2) 1 2 3 4 5 6 G(3)

G(1): this is the second from the right on the top of the soundcard
5V: this is the far left on the top of the soundcard
G(2): not used
1: Farthest left on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the X signal
2: second to the left on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the Y signal
3: Third from the left on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the red signal
4: third from the right on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the green signal
5: second from the right on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the blue signal (can it be used for violet too?)
6: farthest right on the bottom of the soundcard. This is the intensity(?) signal.
G(3): this is the farthest right on the top of the soundcard.

That's precisely how mine is wired up. Perfect.
Modulation signals are the same regardless of color. These channels can be used for any laser that supports being modulated regardless of color.

When tuning the signals from my computer (lets say im tuning channel 1) do i hook up the positive to the channel 1 output and the negative to the ground output? Then i do that for each one using the same ground?

Exactly right.

This is looking a lot simpler...

Thanks
Click to expand...

Looking good so far..
 





ElektroFreak said:
Looking good so far..
Click to expand...

I just need to get a response from the guy making me the box...I suppose i could just get the aluminum plate and order all of the components and worry about the box later...The box will just serve as a "cover". Im going on a trip the first week of august so i might wait to order parts till after that trip...My birthday is also during the trip so ill get some moola from my relatives.

Are the 1-6 in order like this:

Picture003-1.jpg


R: 1
G:2
W:3
B:4
R:5
G:6

Or is it the other way around?

Thanks
 
Ok...Just making sure. Ill probably start a new thread about my scanner once i order the parts. Thatll probably be around august 10...

I still dont quite get how i should power everything...Has anyone gotten the power connector from Jaycar? Does it have prongs/wires coming off of the back? If it does then i should just be able to cut the end off of a surge protector and hook it up (polarity doesnt matter). Then i can get an adapter for the red (what voltage does the flexmod need?), a 12V adapter for all of the fans, and a regular lamp cord or something for the green/scanpros.

Thanks guys
 
I used it on my scanner, it has prongs. The switch is disconnectable, so you don't have to use it if you don't want. It is clip-in tho, so a good hole for it is needed :)

It's entirely up to you, there is nothing much different about scanner 240V wiring than regular 240V wiring, just make sure your ground is right.
 
Alright thanks for clearing that up. Would it work if i cut a surge protector plug off and wired it up to the prongs? Does polarity matter? I dont think it should...

Thanks
 
That's what I do. I just custom make a wiring harness beginning with a grounded power cord (like a computer cord) and solder branching wires onto it, one branch for each power supply that accepts mains power. Then I just route the branches to each supply (laser, galvos, fans etc..). I highly recommend using fully insulated quick-connects (blade connectors) so that disconnecting and replacing any part of the scanner is a breeze. Also, make sure any solder joints that will be involved in the main power wiring is well-insulated using electrical tape.. Polarity does not matter when dealing with AC.
 
Last edited:
Alright...i think i get it now. If i think of anymore questions ill post them here, but for now that is it.

Thanks for all the help
 
so as far as aligning goes does the laser need to be leveled ~90*(coming out of mirrors) from the direction the laser shines in?
 
If I understand your question, yes, the galvos turn the beam 90 degrees from the source. You can level the laser using thin metal shims (easily found at auto parts stores or hardware stores).
 
the green laser i was using to align it is one of the aixiz adjustable 50mw. its sits way lower than the mirrors(close to 1/2") so im gonna need to play around with everything to get it aligned right. anyone know the screw size for the mounting screws on the aixiz labby or the scanlsp20 mounting screws?
 
for alignment you could use a flat chunk of aluminum to raise up the laser, would give it more heat sinking as well :)

this is my plan at least.

-Kendall
 
Also if your laser doesn't generate much heat, you can use a "floating platform". These are great if your laser's beam also comes out at an angle. Basically a thickish peice of alu mounted up with 4 bolts on each corner, then you can adjust the platform by adjuting the height of the nuts.

-Dan
 
I finally figured out all of my questions. I will list all of the parts i need(i already have the soundcard). Its a long list. If you guys could double check it i would really appreciate it. I will organize it somewhat...

Computer:

Spaghetti

DAC:

correction amp
DZE breakout board
Gender changer
DB25 cord

Scanner:

Galvos
base plate
green laser
DZE breakout board
power input plug/switch
power cord
fans(8)
Red laser(z-bolt heatsink, flexmod(how much amperage does this need by the way?, aixiz, diode)
Dichro
dichro mount
PSU
fan grills
box
various bolts/screws/nails ect.

Also another question: when hooking up the correction amp to the breakout board where do i get all of the grounds for the signals? I know on the DB25 that you solder to the 24th (or whatever) pin is the ground and you solder to that and then solder to all of the signal +'s to the corresponding pin.

I will be ordering parts tuesday!

Thankyou for all of the help guys!
 
^your list looks good to me. I haven't ever used a flexmod since all my analog lasers came with PSUs from the factory, so I'm not an expert in their operation. I can tell you that it will require at least whatever current you want to drive the diode at plus a fraction for the driver itself. Experimentation would be a good way to go, but I wouldn't worry about whether or not the PC power supply will handle it. A PC PSU should provide more than enough filtered DC for anything you put in there.

Regarding the grounds, I would just hook each ground pin to the negative connection points on the breakout board. (R+, R-, etc..). If you're worried about the pin 25 issue, you could just solder a small wire off of pin 25 on the breakout board and connect all your grounds to that.

Good luck with your build! Don't forget to post pics as you go..
 
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