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FrozenGate by Avery

First Laser 650nm Lpc-815 LOC

I agree with rhd. With a LM317 or LM117, using 2*14500 Li Ions, you shouldn't need to heatsink the driver.

As far as the heatsink for diode goes, you're kind of limited to the size your host. But judging by the size of your host it should be plenty of heatsinking. My guess is you should be able to get 2 minute run times anyway. It's something you'll have to judge for yourself when running it, when it gets warm, turn it off. ;)

I could make a heatsink for you but you would have to send me the host. I would imagine the shipping from you to me, then me to you would be at least $10 though.

You could always check with mohrenberg. He's not the only one who makes heatsinks but is one of the cheapest.
 





Thanks guys, i will probably start soon since most of my parts are here, you guys have helped alot. i will give rep to any of yous that i can since i have gave most of ous rep before :)

edit: +1 for rhd and lord kazamokov
 
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Hey guys, btw just wondering for a 3 ohm resistor what sort of apacitor should i use and also is it worth spending an extra few bucks on a copper heatsink?

Thanks
 
W0W im really sorry for triple post but :bumpit:

Can someone please tell me how to replace the silicone clicky on a cree c3?

also what size is the silicone tailcap?

And please answer this question: do i need a capacitor if im building my own driver?
and if so what type?

Thankyou!

also any mod out there please delete my previous bump :)
 
LaZeRz said:
W0W im really sorry for triple post but :bumpit:

Can someone please tell me how to replace the silicone clicky on a cree c3?
Click to expand...

Does the tail cap look like this?

creec3.jpg


If so, you see the two holes, or indents on the brass ring? Get some small tweezers or needle nosed pliers and it will screw out, then you can replace the tailcap.

LaZeRz said:
also what size is the silicone tailcap?
Click to expand...

Should be the same standard tailcap size all cheap Chinese flashlights use. If you see replacement tailcaps on DX, they should fit.

LaZeRz said:
And please answer this question: do i need a capacitor if im building my own driver?
and if so what type?
Click to expand...

I forgot, are you building a LM317 based driver? If so, a 47uF 16v capacitor should do
 
Its actually a rip off of a cree c3 and the tailcaps insides are plastic, im not sure if ican drill holes in to it though

Also do you know any info on a good lens to fix the a140 diodes horrible divergence and dot, more like 4 rectangles :P

And would running a lpc-815 at 444ma in a hotlight be safe?

Im asking this cause jib77 can make me a 444ma driver min with a SMD resistor

Thanks :)
 
LaZeRz said:
Its actually a rip off of a cree c3 and the tailcaps insides are plastic, im not sure if ican drill holes in to it though

Also do you know any info on a good lens to fix the a140 diodes horrible divergence and dot, more like 4 rectangles :P

And would running a lpc-815 at 444ma in a hotlight be safe?

Im asking this cause jib77 can make me a 444ma driver min with a SMD resistor

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Your best bet is the AixiZ 445nm lens. I've heard the new one is even better than the old one.

444mA would be the max I would try. I've heard LPC's LEDing at that current but I've also seen a lot of success at that current. It is a gamble but IMO it's a cheap enough diode to do so.

350mA should be a completely safe current.
 
Ok Thanks!

i might be running the a140 and my lpc in a hotlight since i bought 2, do you think that would be enough heatsinking for a lpc at 444ma? i have also had the idea of making a ggw or another close to UV laser and then i will paint my whole room glow in the dark!

Probably not allowed though, if we sell the new buyers will think our house is radioactive......

Also is it necessary to buy eagle pair glasses from laserstogo/zonestealth, can i get cheaper glasses with equal protection? and also good protection from the sides and from the bottom if i accidentally turn my laser on while pointing it 2 my face.

Also how do i post full size pics, also how can i resize them for easier viewing?

Thanks!


I want a good lens thats not 50+ bucks like the 650 g1 but provides near specs.
 
LaZeRz said:
Ok Thanks!

i might be running the a140 and my lpc in a hotlight since i bought 2, do you think that would be enough heatsinking for a lpc at 444ma? i have also had the idea of making a ggw or another close to UV laser and then i will paint my whole room glow in the dark!

Probably not allowed though, if we sell the new buyers will think our house is radioactive......

Also is it necessary to buy eagle pair glasses from laserstogo/zonestealth, can i get cheaper glasses with equal protection? and also good protection from the sides and from the bottom if i accidentally turn my laser on while pointing it 2 my face.

Also how do i post full size pics, also how can i resize them for easier viewing?

Thanks!


I want a good lens thats not 50+ bucks like the 650 g1 but provides near specs.
Click to expand...

Yes, the hotlight should be plenty of heatsinking for a LPC-815 at 444mA.

I've heard that eagle glasses are not always the OD they claim to be. I'm not speaking from experience, just what I've heard.

Personally I use the glasses from dragon lasers. They aren't too expensive but shipping isn't cheap either but they are good safety glasses.

Laser Safety :: Dragon Lasers

I've also been reading the new lenses from AixiZ are very good, they supposed to have new AR coatings. http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/possible-new-aixiz-405-445-glass-lens-61395.html

Also check with Qumefox, he is supposed to have some on hand that he's selling.
 
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Hi Guys, been looking around abit and have decided to make this site home for a while to satisfy my curiosity for lasers atm.
Currently have a 100mw red and a 50mw green brought built but want to try a build myself.
Current parts are LPC815, Aixiz module and diode driver from modwerx
Will try a compact build later but want to get the concept down first. Can I drive this with 4x aa batterys in series for total of 6v?
And once current is set if I change the Volts will that change the current?
Sorry to hijack the thread just seemed relevent
Thanks guys... oh another from down under lol
 
No threadjack involved, welcome to LPF! you can use 4 aa batteries but if you want a more compact build why dont you try two 14500 batteries? $5.37 - TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-Pack) - Batteries

the extra voltage will be dissipated into heat by the driver.

Also safety glasses are a must for any lasers over 5mw

also remember to ground yourself before you work to stop ESD, if you want touching a trampoline or another peice of metal touching bare ground will discharge you but a ESD strap or spray is recomended.

If youve got any more questions feel free to PM me :)
 
Thanks LaZeRz so if current on the driver is set changing volts will not change the driver current?
Any dramas importing modules with a laser diode into oz?
Looks like must now get goggles, heatsink and a test block, already have a antistatic wrist strap, I guess I could always wind the driver back incorporate the mulimeter and then set the current on the fly
 
For setting the current you shoudl use a test load for about 10% more accurate readings and so you dont risk damage to your diode.

No the voltage change should not change the current but too much voltage might kill the driver.

No dramas yet and hopefully non in the future. Ive imported a 5mw aixiz module that i removed the 5mw diode from and it came thru fine, it was labelled as misc. lighting parts Lol.

anyway if you want any parts flaminpyro is the man, he has awesome wire (very flexible and doesnt melt under heat and comes with heatshrink tubing) for 6 dollars per 20 foot and he has testloads, diode presses, flux for easier solder joints and lots of other goodies :)

also my sled came in as optical parts on the custom declaration sheet

i reccomend you dont buy a high powered laser from overseas because u will recieve a hefty fine and it will be confiscated if founf by customs, if you must have one buy one of 0-like.com, they ship em as flashlight samples worth under 20 dollars on the customs thing.

they also have good quality cheap lasers,

for glasses go here: http://www.laser2go.com/goggles.htm

btw how much are you willing to spend on your first COMPACT build? gimme the amount and specs and i will find the right thing for you :) anyway i will not be able to reply again until about 16 hours cause of school and sleep :) you can still PM me something and il try to check it in the morning.

goodnight Mate!
 
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Thanks for the PM, ordered the Blue kit and inquired about the guidesman kit which is $10 extra due to sending to australia, might get that later.... looks good.
Also got some diodes and 1ohm resister to make a test kit off ebay cheap.
Thanks for the help all starting to make sense now
 
Dang Lazerz you made a big jump from the start of your thread :P. Ravenit make sure that your iron is grounded I recently killed a few diodes from esd either from the iron or the lack of an esd strap.
 
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