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jander6442

jander6442

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Upon completion of a build I noticed that the intensity of the Dot Begin
to fade at the 1 min mark.

I did a battery check and they were fine so I changed them anyhow and the problem persisted... What gives? It is a Husky host. there is no grounding to host issues and this is not my first build by far... I did consider it put together Farley well as far as my builds go.

I have an open LPC w/rkcstr driver set at the max 430mA. I believe the
forward voltage was the problem checked out at 5.0 volts... for giggles I
turned down the pot to see if I was on the edge of adjustment...so down the pot to 344mA same results... Ryan if your reading this post I think now that the driver is dropping out?

I hope someone will post on some ideas where to go from here. I will
be replacing the diode w/another LPC just to make sure its not the diode
thats my next move:thinking:... Thank you in advanced, Josh.
 





Hey Josh, my Blu-ray does the same thing. It too is using a Rkcstr driver. The only thing that I have noticed that stops this, is if all 3 of my batteries are fully charged giving me a total of a 12.6 volts. When the voltage gets down to 10volts, it does exactly as what you have discribed after being on for about 1 min. I am wondering if the batteries just can't keep up with the power demands or if too much heat is building up on the diode or the driver.

Sorry that I can't be of much help. I just found it interesting that yours does the same thing as mine does. Let us all know what happens after you replace the diode.

Later,
Iskor12
 
iskor12 said:
Hey Josh, my Blu-ray does the same thing. It too is using a Rkcstr driver. The only thing that I have noticed that stops this, is if all 3 of my batteries are fully charged giving me a total of a 12.6 volts. When the voltage gets down to 10volts, it does exactly as what you have discribed after being on for about 1 min. I am wondering if the batteries just can't keep up with the power demands or if too much heat is building up on the diode or the driver.

Sorry that I can't be of much help. I just found it interesting that yours does the same thing as mine does. Let us all know what happens after you replace the diode.

Later,
Iskor12
Click to expand...
Hmm,
I don't know if this is related but I remember from a while back that the RKCSTR driver is rated to only 12V. It's possible that you burnt out something.
 
Last edited:
jander6442 said:
Upon completion of a build I noticed that the intensity of the Dot Begin
to fade at the 1 min mark.

I did a battery check and they were fine so I changed them anyhow and the problem persisted... What gives? It is a Husky host. there is no grounding to host issues and this is not my first build by far... I did consider it put together Farley well as far as my builds go.

I have an open LPC w/rkcstr driver set at the max 430mA. I believe the
forward voltage was the problem checked out at 5.0 volts... for giggles I
turned down the pot to see if I was on the edge of adjustment...so down the pot to 344mA same results... Ryan if your reading this post I think now that the driver is dropping out?

I hope someone will post on some ideas where to go from here. I will
be replacing the diode w/another LPC just to make sure its not the diode
thats my next move:thinking:... Thank you in advanced, Josh.
Click to expand...

I doubt very much that it could be the diode...

But when you say 5 volts forward voltage, you must not be measuring correctly??

The red open can forward voltage would only be around 2 volts.

What exactly is your battery supply in this build? Your probably right that the driver is dropping out. But why is the question? Most likely the battery supply as iskor12 mentioned...
Jay
 
Last edited:
Jimmymcjimthejim said:
Hmm,
I don't know if this is related but I remember from a while back that the RKCSTR driver is rated to only 12V. It's possible that you burnt out something.
Click to expand...

I am aware that the rkcster driver is only rated to 12V. All of the extra voltage is converted into heat and with good heat sinking, it really isn't a problem at 12.6V.
 
Maybe pushing it hard doesn't allow it to give out the current properly?
 
Igor recommended a SI diode in the positive lead for over 12V. Ryan also said somehing about a bypass will work too. But I have no idea how either work.
 
iskor12 said:
Hey Josh, my Blu-ray does the same thing. It too is using a Rkcstr driver. The only thing that I have noticed that stops this, is if all 3 of my batteries are fully charged giving me a total of a 12.6 volts. When the voltage gets down to 10volts, it does exactly as what you have discribed after being on for about 1 min. I am wondering if the batteries just can't keep up with the power demands or if too much heat is building up on the diode or the driver.

Sorry that I can't be of much help. I just found it interesting that yours does the same thing as mine does. Let us all know what happens after you replace the diode.

Later,
Iskor12
Click to expand...


what size of cells are you using ? can you do a current check while you are running it...

Peace Pyro...:eg:
 
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Click to expand...
msrkpro;539921 go away douche bag this post is for tech ideas on the problem described you trollbait...

Jayrob was right on the forward volt... I posted on the wrong fact sheet... The thing is I have 10440 Batt I think thats the #'s... I'm posting from work now.

I still am having the problem w/ this sett up... I used other batt. pack
from other units and the batt. seem to get infected from this module.

I'm wondering if the reverse protection is in closed circuit mode and making the thing short out...

the batt. show voltage starting at 12.3 then drop rapidly to below 6v.
then on the amp side they drop from preset to 60mA in no time...

Worse yet the batt. seem to carry that memory to other builds and infect that driver also... it bizarre. I'm going to PM jay and ship him the module to diagnose.

He can keep it to, Damn thing has wreaked 9 battery's and
infected one other module...the module works great on constants power...I'm sure the batt. haven't reversed polarity either.
 
That's to bad.

As for a current check, I could do that, but it really isn't a concern of mine. I like my laser as is, and until it stops running, I am not going to mess with it.
 
iskor12 said:
That's to bad.

As for a current check, I could do that, but it really isn't a concern of mine. I like my laser as is, and until it stops running, I am not going to mess with it.
Click to expand...


I did a current check on this = 344mA funny thing unlike others I've tested the amps dropped steadily while testing 300,280,195... this tell's
fine the batt. When replaced though w/ a pack working fine from another unit they start exhibiting the same as the others described above.:(

This is why I'm saying I think the driver is some how effecting the batt.
anymore thoughts on this would be appreciated and rewarded.
 
jander6442 said:
I did a current check on this = 344mA funny thing unlike others I've tested the amps dropped steadily while testing 300,280,195... this tell's
fine the batt. When replaced though w/ a pack working fine from another unit they start exhibiting the same as the others described above.:(

This is why I'm saying I think the driver is some how effecting the batt.
anymore thoughts on this would be appreciated and rewarded.
Click to expand...

I just did a check on all of my batteries and I found out what was causing my problems!!!

I have a 1 bad cell/battery out of the 3 I was using. Instead of it holding around 600mah it only seems to hold about 200mah to 2500mah max!!! Looks like I just need to replace a one battery and I think that I will be back in business>:)

Who knows, that might be the same problem you are having too!!
 
Here's what I know now 1 bad cell in the original pack that was testing ok, but draining fast... I wasn't testing quick enough. What method were you testing Heath for maH? PM for instructions Heath this might be the missing link for me.
Sorry I did'nt get back to you yesturday went to see the Transformer flick "very good".BTW.
 
PM sent :) My method might not be 100% accurate, but I know that it is relatively close.
 
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