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FrozenGate by Avery

First Build Of Powerful Laser

I would also suggest the extended lens holder. Like Apex said, some diodes require the lens to get closer to the diode. If you do use a focus adatper, you may need the extended lens holder. I got some of the adapters moh sells, the one apex posted a pic of, and had to use the extented lens holder to get full focus on my pl520 green build and my 405nm skyray build.

Theres a link in my sig if you want to my S4 pl520 build if you want to see how that focus adapter looks on an extended lens holder.

Look HERE for info on extracting the stock lens.
 





Ha, to pop out the stock lens I used two pairs of pliers to pull it apart and then used my fingernail to scrape off the little bit of glue stuck to the lens. Took a whole 30 seconds and worked perfect. I used 91% Isopropyl alcohol to clean the lens off when I was done.
 
ApexProxy said:
Ha, to pop out the stock lens I used two pairs of pliers to pull it apart and then used my fingernail to scrape off the little bit of glue stuck to the lens. Took a whole 30 seconds and worked perfect. I used 91% Isopropyl alcohol to clean the lens off when I was done.
Click to expand...

Me too :)
I saw that in the thread i linked and it was easier than i thought.
 
People on that thread discuss ways of making a 30 second operation take as long as a couple days and require very dangerous chemicals. For some reason some like to make things painfully complicated...
 
I know this isnt the right spot to ask, but is there any thing i should know before operating this laser. I know not pointing at a plane or at any life but is there anything additional i should know like operating in public places? I live in new york, us (in the middle of nowhere)
 
I have an m140 with a 405 g2 lens it says its a 2w diode. I also have a driver from Cree at 18v 5w. I think its a little big for the diode but I want to try it out. Any thoughts?
 
If you mean the driver being a little big for the diode that isn't quite enough information to be able to tell you that. The way drivers work for laser diodes is voltage and wattage are essentially meaningless. What really matters is current. For a M140 as long as the driver can supply ~5V+ the only thing that matters is if the driver has to be a constant current type. For an M140 you can run them anywhere from 250mA to as high as 1.8A or even 2A sometimes. If you want an opinion on the driver post exactly which one it is and then we could tell you.

Also, for the most part M140s are just rated at 2W by cheap sellers looking to make their products sound better. Every diode is different and unless that particular diode was binned it would need to be measured to know what it can really do and what current is best to set it at if you are looking for it to be as powerful as possible.
 
It appears that the flashlight driver is the same piece as the battery contacts as seen in these pictures. (the large metal ring screws into the head of the cree). What should I do? I just cant cut the 2 leads and attach it to the new driver.
 

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Drivers as battery contacts are quite common and are usually the easier way to build. However when you buy a premade module like what DTR sells he cannot use that style of driver because not every host is the same and not all use the same size driver.

Unless you purchased your own battery contact you will have to use that driver as a battery contact. You can do this by removing all the components from the driver and then locating the positive and negative traces and then soldering the X-Drive on your diode module to them. The best way to clean off a driver board is just to desolder the pieces off individually. Careful about just pulling them off because you can easily tear off the traces which may make it difficult to use as a contact board after. Once you have cleaned the driver post a picture of each side of the driver as closely and sharply as humanly possible so I can see the traces and I can point out where you will need to solder the X-Drive leads to.
 
The two leads that are coming off of the battery contact to the light bulb part of the driver(blue and red leads found in the pictures above) may they be cut cause it will be difficult to desolder with that other stuff in the way(such as the metal ring and the circuit board with only the light bulb attached to it)
 
You don't need any of the original electronics other than the driver board so you can do whatever you want to the emitter and leads.
 
Ok, now im trying to figure out on how to fit the lens into the lens holder. I am not exactly sure how it fits.
 
Remove the core of the holder put in the lens with the flat(er) side down and then screw back in the core.
 
not exactly sure what you mean by the core of the lens holder, i tried alot of different ways. Should i find a spring while doing this?
 
You did remove the lens from the little metal bracket it comes with to attach to the diode right?
 
oh, now i understand, thanks.

Is a glass lense something i should look to invest in? i heard they are better performing then the acryllic ones.
 
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