Ricker
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Ugh! What's that? $156.25 per diode, his price? :/ Ahh, I see what you did there! 
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FrozenGate by Avery
Extracting Diodes From Nichia diode bank
- Thread starter ABarnett
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WOW Look at this, 63000 lumens cinema LASER projector. This was 4 years ago, they expected something big in 5 years, you watch what I say, 3D holographic TV will be the next big thing, for sports of course because they will need lots of cameras at the events, but that means mass produced lasers for home AV, it could be a sports bar thing to start, but everyone will want it.
Christie Laser Projector Shines at IBC in 3D - Display Central
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WOW Look at this, 63000 lumens cinema LASER projector. This was 4 years ago, they expected something big in 5 years, you watch what I say, 3D holographic TV will be the next big thing, for sports of course because they will need lots of cameras at the events, but that means mass produced lasers for home AV, it could be a sports bar thing to start, but everyone will want it.
Christie Laser Projector Shines at IBC in 3D - Display Central
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I haven't tried out the NUBM07E but they have to pretty cool. Now that they are getting cheaper I want some. I saw a 8x bank for under $700 and a NUGM01T for $920. I want to see if anyone wants to do a group buy maybe.
I also see that quite a few different car companies are starting to use high power lasers for headlights. Of course the US is allowing them. But those should also be another good source for finding diodes.
I also see that quite a few different car companies are starting to use high power lasers for headlights. Of course the US is allowing them. But those should also be another good source for finding diodes.
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Those are just Osram diodes, they are already cheap and you can buy them outright without paying for an expensive wrapper to throw away, I wish Osram would make some 10w - 50w projector diodes for Chinese projectors.
But there is probably some FDA import law holding Chinese projectors back or they would already be selling them, they do assemble a lot of Japanese units, just not the unit that the nubm44 is in, it's assembled in Japan only, that's why there are no Chinese assembly line blocks coming out the back door with the 44, but in time Osram will produce a lot more anyway.
If 3d Holo TV would go ahead and take hold the floodgates would be open, projection is just a small part of the market.
I do see direct diodes replacing stage lighting lasers, so in time China with their Osram factory will produce more and it will get cheaper, it's all about production numbers and the company being willing to sell on the open market. But 520 is replacing 532 so Osram will compete.
Now as all our lighting is starting to use the blue led pumping phosphor, industrial spotlights may go laser/phosphor for long range, large area use, that could be another source.
There's a lot of IR stuff at higher power for a good price, but visible will follow AV and lighting.
This is a 7D theater in Dubai, see it's already started, but now the world economy is down so we wait.
But there is probably some FDA import law holding Chinese projectors back or they would already be selling them, they do assemble a lot of Japanese units, just not the unit that the nubm44 is in, it's assembled in Japan only, that's why there are no Chinese assembly line blocks coming out the back door with the 44, but in time Osram will produce a lot more anyway.
If 3d Holo TV would go ahead and take hold the floodgates would be open, projection is just a small part of the market.
I do see direct diodes replacing stage lighting lasers, so in time China with their Osram factory will produce more and it will get cheaper, it's all about production numbers and the company being willing to sell on the open market. But 520 is replacing 532 so Osram will compete.
Now as all our lighting is starting to use the blue led pumping phosphor, industrial spotlights may go laser/phosphor for long range, large area use, that could be another source.
There's a lot of IR stuff at higher power for a good price, but visible will follow AV and lighting.
This is a 7D theater in Dubai, see it's already started, but now the world economy is down so we wait.
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Whauu this 7D projector give it to LPF and we rip it in peaces and take out all the diodes from it in 5 minutes heheh :crackup:
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Ricker
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Well, it's been a month, any luck? I now have two blocks, I have putting the block in a vice, using a cutting disk to single them, now that they are singled, I need to find a way to get the chunks off without harming the diode.
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Cut out round tape circles with clean paper centers, like a 9mm round masking tape circle with a tiny 4mm plain white paper center circle and tape the tops of those cans, the window sits inside the can and you do not want junk in there.
Then keep nibbling until you can get a razor blade behind the diode.
I was thinking to drill with a small drill in my drill press with the depth set on the block to start with, to make crack lines.
Have you thought about heat? You could cook 1 @ 465f / 240c SAVE AS LAST RESORT?
Why would that not be a copper or aluminum block?
Is it some kind of alloy, looks like zinc alloy??
You need to get at the bond line between the diode backing plate and the housing stuck to it. SEE HOW THICK IT IS!
Use a torch heated xacto blade held with pliers and scrape out solder all around the diode, but peel the rest off down to whats on back, so you can see the bond line.
cutting break lines as to get at that bond line where the bonding agent is, bit by bit you will win.
CAN YOU GIVE US A SIDE VIEW? HOW THICK IS THE SOLDER/BOND?
PROTECT THOSE WINDOWS! Tape bridge if nothing else.
USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN WINDOW, NEVER TOUCH SCRATCH THE SURFACE.
Then keep nibbling until you can get a razor blade behind the diode.
I was thinking to drill with a small drill in my drill press with the depth set on the block to start with, to make crack lines.
Have you thought about heat? You could cook 1 @ 465f / 240c SAVE AS LAST RESORT?
Why would that not be a copper or aluminum block?
Is it some kind of alloy, looks like zinc alloy??
You need to get at the bond line between the diode backing plate and the housing stuck to it. SEE HOW THICK IT IS!
Use a torch heated xacto blade held with pliers and scrape out solder all around the diode, but peel the rest off down to whats on back, so you can see the bond line.
cutting break lines as to get at that bond line where the bonding agent is, bit by bit you will win.
CAN YOU GIVE US A SIDE VIEW? HOW THICK IS THE SOLDER/BOND?
PROTECT THOSE WINDOWS! Tape bridge if nothing else.
USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN WINDOW, NEVER TOUCH SCRATCH THE SURFACE.
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Ricker
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This is a piece that I had pried off, like the rest of it, a few cut marks too I know, and it all looks just like DTRs bare diodes, would solder easily snap apart from a diode like this? It seems too easy to break apart evenly but maybe the solder solution is very thin, so it does break apart evenly?
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MAN, Get a razor blade or tiny jewlers screwdriver into that bond line and see, if it pops out we got this, pre drilling depth limited crack lines and popping the bond will make it easier and easier each time.
I could drill a line or cut a line just below the bond line on a solid block and reach in and pop each bond, most of the bloc will be intact.
THAT IS cut 4 little slots on the long side of the block to reach in at the bond line and pop them out.
The cut will be right at the bond line or just below it so a jewlers screwdriver can be used to reach in and POP then loose.
Chopping up the block wont be needed at all. JUST 4 SURGICAL CuTS ON EACH SIDE
REMEMBER TO TAPE ACROSS THOSE WINDOWS!
GRIND A SCREWDRIVER TO A THIN FLAT EDGE
Actually a cut right down the bonding line both sides. Then a medium sized sharpened screwdriver.
One long depth set/limited cut, my table saw with my non ferrous blade set to right depth and fenced cut right down the bond line.
Grind sharp a big screwdriver, forget the tiny one, pop pop pop........ We could even cut pin gaps in the screwdriver to protect the pins from sudden slips when the diodes pop up. SCRATCH THAT, JUST DEPTH LIMIT THE SCREWDRIVER WITH A CLAMP ON STOP.
DEPTH OF CUT AS TO NOT SCUFF DIODE RIM
You already know to clamp the block in a vise while popping them out, with the windows covered.
No heat extraction will add to longevity, this will be good.
WARNING, BEFORE ANYONE STARTS CUTTING, THE MOMENT YOU GET THE BLOCK IN HAND, YOU MUST PROTECT THOSE WINDOWS, THIS IS PARAMOUNT!!!
Tape will bridge the window on the shoulders on the can, but never ever touch that window!!!
In my drawing a little plastic circle can be used, you don't want paper lint on that window, or dust, they must be kept very clean.
The Gballs spread the beam out, the 44 passes a lot of power through a tiny spot and it must be kept clean or that window will burn through, I have learned this the hard way. I really want to get some lenses in front of my Gballs, but I cover even them when not in use for now.
I could drill a line or cut a line just below the bond line on a solid block and reach in and pop each bond, most of the bloc will be intact.
THAT IS cut 4 little slots on the long side of the block to reach in at the bond line and pop them out.
The cut will be right at the bond line or just below it so a jewlers screwdriver can be used to reach in and POP then loose.
Chopping up the block wont be needed at all. JUST 4 SURGICAL CuTS ON EACH SIDE
REMEMBER TO TAPE ACROSS THOSE WINDOWS!
GRIND A SCREWDRIVER TO A THIN FLAT EDGE
Actually a cut right down the bonding line both sides. Then a medium sized sharpened screwdriver.
One long depth set/limited cut, my table saw with my non ferrous blade set to right depth and fenced cut right down the bond line.
Grind sharp a big screwdriver, forget the tiny one, pop pop pop........ We could even cut pin gaps in the screwdriver to protect the pins from sudden slips when the diodes pop up. SCRATCH THAT, JUST DEPTH LIMIT THE SCREWDRIVER WITH A CLAMP ON STOP.
DEPTH OF CUT AS TO NOT SCUFF DIODE RIM
You already know to clamp the block in a vise while popping them out, with the windows covered.
No heat extraction will add to longevity, this will be good.
WARNING, BEFORE ANYONE STARTS CUTTING, THE MOMENT YOU GET THE BLOCK IN HAND, YOU MUST PROTECT THOSE WINDOWS, THIS IS PARAMOUNT!!!
Tape will bridge the window on the shoulders on the can, but never ever touch that window!!!
In my drawing a little plastic circle can be used, you don't want paper lint on that window, or dust, they must be kept very clean.
The Gballs spread the beam out, the 44 passes a lot of power through a tiny spot and it must be kept clean or that window will burn through, I have learned this the hard way. I really want to get some lenses in front of my Gballs, but I cover even them when not in use for now.
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Ricker
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Sorry, just got out of work with a crisis patent, but yeah, I will try that tomorrow, and I will edit this post in a bit with pictures of the side of the diode.
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Nice! :gj: I owe you a +rep when it will let me again.
I am very glad you are cold extracting now, my 06 you cold extracted is awesome, but that Chinese hot plate pull was not the way to go.
I look forward to your cold pulls, hopefully you can find that 08e, I will run it with the Gball intact, they are a great lens and more suited to expander use than a G2 or 3 element, at least as far as the pair of nubm06 I tested.
I wouldn't mind a couple more nubm44's though, I want to cube a pair with G2's and 6x pairs, they do make a sweet burner.
I am very glad you are cold extracting now, my 06 you cold extracted is awesome, but that Chinese hot plate pull was not the way to go.
I look forward to your cold pulls, hopefully you can find that 08e, I will run it with the Gball intact, they are a great lens and more suited to expander use than a G2 or 3 element, at least as far as the pair of nubm06 I tested.
I wouldn't mind a couple more nubm44's though, I want to cube a pair with G2's and 6x pairs, they do make a sweet burner.
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Yup its definitely better. I got a laser I built two months ago for a guy back yesterday. He's been using it everyday since he first got it. I removed the Gball on the NUBM06 and it has a Chinese G2 lens. I tested it on my LPM and it hit 7.6 watts and stabilized at 7.2 watts. I cold extracted that batch and I don't think I had a single problem with any of them. It takes a lot of work to get them out but in the long run its worth it.
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Will you have any cold pulled 44's any time? I have had great results with them and would like a few more, I still have some 6x pairs, but for my beam expander builds I will rather use Gball diodes 06's or 08's.
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Ricker
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Yeah I'm about to start chopping. I wanted to double wrap the diodes before I started. I used a plastic type masking tape to cover the window and made a little bubble so the tape won't leave a residue of adhesive. Then made the caps from shrink tube. Now I can go at it without having to worry to much.
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