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FrozenGate by Avery

ebay RGB white laser cheap

I think the 1W model can have analog modulation optionally, personally I wouldn't even bother with anything under that for a projector unless your sole purpose is watching shows in your dark bedroom :p
 





"Where are the pots located and are they hard to get to?"

The one I bought has three pots on the driver board, one for each color. To add analog modulation I plan on adding a MOSFET to the circuit on each pot. If the driver circuitry is such that I can't get fast enough response times that way I may just scrap the original driver board and build my own.
 
I'm looking for a TTL blanking circuit for this unit, where would I go about finding one?
Would it be easier to just splice the DC inputs for each color and put in switches? It really sucks to plug and unplug each units DC for different colors.

I adjusted the pot (weaker) in the green laser and I made some very beautiful colors by doing so. Is it safe to pot adjust this as long I don't go over the power it came stock?

I modified this to run off from 2x18650's with an on/off switch. It fits in my hand and is 100% portable and handheld.
The most fun I have ever had in my life with lighting.

Thanks
 
I have the TTL version of this. For the diodes and driver (and internal fan), I felt it was a good deal. The optics could be better adjusted.. it's posible to do yourself, but you need to clear out lots of red glue.

Hopping on ebay recently I see some sellers are advertising these exact same units as analog now (via a board layout difference). Does anyone have the analog version? I would love to see what they changed.
 
I have the TTL version of this. For the diodes and driver (and internal fan), I felt it was a good deal. The optics could be better adjusted.. it's posible to do yourself, but you need to clear out lots of red glue.

Hopping on ebay recently I see some sellers are advertising these exact same units as analog now (via a board layout difference). Does anyone have the analog version? I would love to see what they changed.

i contacted some sellers about offering the TTL modules with analogue drivers, but they were naming ridiculous prices for it. Like $170 more for an analogue version. Or maybe it's indeed that pricy?
 
The analog ones generally go for 3$ more than their ttl counterparts... I directly asked and they assured it was analog. Still hoping someone has one that could take some shots.
 
Is it possible to splice into the DC inputs for each color diode and put in some adjustable current resistors or something? I don't feel comfortable using the pots to just change the colors.

There's a version of this somebody sells on this forum that has adjustable lenses. I contacted the ebay ones and the replies I heard from are all fixed.

If I shine mine into the mountain and look through with some 12x binoculars I can see the beam slowly split into separate colors. But from the eye it looks like a solid color beam. If I shine it 100ft across my yard into a fence the dot alignment isn't perfect either, the red has the worst divergence in my opinion.
I can post photos if anyone is interested.

All-in-all very cool module. Adjustable lenses would be great, so would analog, but look hard enough with anything and you can nit pick improvements.
 
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It amazes me that the colors stay together that well for you. Mine separate noticeably after 7ft.

There is lots of red glue in these units, but they appear to have tapped aluminum blocks and lenses screwed into them so if you can get that off, you should be able to use a large flathead screwdriver to change the focus.

I haven't looked into the DC input cutting for individual color control. What don't you like about changing the pot settings?
 
It amazes me that the colors stay together that well for you. Mine separate noticeably after 7ft.

There is lots of red glue in these units, but they appear to have tapped aluminum blocks and lenses screwed into them so if you can get that off, you should be able to use a large flathead screwdriver to change the focus.

I haven't looked into the DC input cutting for individual color control. What don't you like about changing the pot settings?

Changing the focus that way would make for some very sloppy adjustment wouldn't it? You would have to re glue it after adjustment? Seems like there would be a lot of room for error, I think I would be better off just leaving it considering how it is focused good from stock.

The pots adjustment, I have no bearing on how to return to stock settings. I have no LPM and would worry about over driving a diode on accident or not being able to get it back to pure white at 200mw like stock. Just seems awfully risky. :)
 
I don't feel comfortable using the pots to just change the colors.

Uh... why not?

Is it possible to ... put in some adjustable current resistors or something?

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Do you even know what a potentiometer is?
 
Not exactly no, I believe it's an adjustable resistor of sorts. I'm not a professional, that's why I am on this forum for help/support and information. :)

I just heard bad stories of people over adjusting the pots and burning out diodes, and without a LPM I would have no basis to find stock output. I think Adjusting the pots on 3 different diodes has the potential of over driving one of them by accident if I am aiming for different colors. That's all really, I could be wrong.
 
Oh I see now. You're concerned this is one of those "pot-mods" you've read so much about. Maybe someone that has one of these can measure the max current on each color and let us know.
 
I ordered one of the analog models. I wondering if anyone here knows what I would need in order to get full color control by controlling each colors brightness.
Is there a circuit I need to plug into the driver board?
 
I ordered one of the analog models. I wondering if anyone here knows what I would need in order to get full color control by controlling each colors brightness.
Is there a circuit I need to plug into the driver board?

If it's anything like the ttl version, you will need a 12v power supply to power everything

You will see there are red,green, and blue headers on the board. These control the respective lasers.
-Leaving the wires disconnected = lasers are on full brightness
-Pulling the outputs up to 5v = lasers on full brightness
-Shorting the two pins together or tying them to gnd = lasers are off.

DO NOT connect the laser inputs to 12v. I cannot imagine any good will come of that.

It would be great if you could take pics of the board when it comes in

As far as analog goes.. if you got a 1k pot, tied the center tap to the laser input +pin, one side of the pot to 5v, and the other to gnd, you should be able to control the brightness.
 
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As far as analog goes.. if you got a 1k pot, tied the center tap to the laser input +pin, one side of the pot to 5v, and the other to gnd, you should be able to control the brightness.

I'm sorry, can you please explain this more? I understand everything but this part. Pictures would be really cool for sure, I'll post when it comes in.

I powered my last one with 2x18650's. Ran good until the red diode quit.
I would like to put each color on a small switch.
 
Here's a pic of the analog RGB from techhood. Just came in today. Has a rear mounted fan that was not on the other models.

Wonder what all the pots are for?
 

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