Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers



DTR's Laser Shop - Laser Diodes & More

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
The NUBM07 could be used with GBall intact by placing another backwards GBall inline or I have used a backwards G2 but a backwards GBall could be better, then your normal collimating lens, the divergence out of the backwards GBall will be in theory the same as the raw output.

65081
 
Last edited:



DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
:LOL: Yes, Jordan, that is the same diode. I have another unused one in my stock, but thought it would be easier to exchange the diode in the NDB7675 build with my M462 since it has a 1.8 amp X-Drive. Then I can use the 2.4 amp driver in a new host with the NDB7675. Felt like the thing to do as I got very little shift in wavelength on that diode at 1.8 amps.
You know now I think of it I did not offer those NDB7675 20mm 2.7A overdrive units for very long as they went out of stock after maybe two weeks of offering them and did not relist them any of the times they came back in stock but I had sent out maybe 15-20 of them even with the big warning about accepting the risk. I had assume I would have had heard back about how long they lived. I was of the opinion they would would be dropping like decanned G-Ball diodes in china made 8W/10W/15W CNC modules.🥴

I don't think I can recall anyone letting me know they lost one.🤔

The NUBM07 could be used with GBall intact by placing another backwards GBall inline or I have used a backwards G2 but a backwards GBall would be better, then your normal collimating lens, the divergence out of the backwards GBall will be in theory the same as the raw output.
Yea and I do want to make an adapter that can thread in my modules to hold the extra lenses but what I have seen on those units they want the colimator to be as short a focal length as possible even preferring some F2 named colimmator that I think has a shorter focal length than the DTR-G-2 to get a nice correction with the multi mode diode.

when you use a longer focal length first then correct it starts out fatter does it not? You guys are certainly better understanding the characteristics of different optic systems but if it does work as the light show projectors like the beams to be for both even combining and a beam that looks nice from many different angels.

I just am thinking of say if you have a beam traveling straight away from you that is diverging quite badly it may not look like it is diverging at all from your perspective like pointing NUBM44 into the night sky with a G lens does not look that bad to me. But if I am standing say 100 feet away and the beam is heading towed me at an angle over my head that same beam would look like am crazy bright flashlight beam going up in the sky. Matching of beams is also important for the bleeding efect. Anyway typing too fast got to go watch the game but wanted to reply on hat for your and Chris's thoughts on this for that purpose. Go Blues.🍺
 

hoo7h

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
248
Points
28
Hi Jordan! Is the N465nm coming back anytime soon? I doppred mine and it broke, been waiting for months to replace it :(
 

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
The NUBM07 could be used with GBall intact by placing another backwards GBall inline or I have used a backwards G2 but a backwards GBall would be better, then your normal collimating lens, the divergence out of the backwards GBall will be in theory the same as the raw output.

View attachment 65081
I pulled out my stash of extra long lens barrels. I am going to try some different setups. For the backwards G and forward G do you have an estimate of the distance from G to G that worked for you? Would be nice if it was this easy.



Hi Jordan! Is the N465nm coming back anytime soon? I doppred mine and it broke, been waiting for months to replace it :(

Sorry was actually trying to find one I thought I had here for you but no dice. Not sure if I wil over those again for a few different reasons.If I find it I will let you know.:)
 

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
I put mine as close together as they will fit, pretty much butted together when using a GBall and backwards G2, with 2 GBalls I would use two cans from the same block, the shorter can from the nubm08 has a nice flat rim that would butt together nicely or accommodate a flat spacer well if you find that you might want a mm or two of separation.



When I have used an intact GBall diode and a backwards G2 I run the G2 down against the GBall's can although there is the distance of the lens barrel, so GBall to GBall will be a try and see deal but I don't see that they could be too close as long as they are both the same although I would not touch glass to glass.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
Ok banged my head for a few minutes till I realized that my plan to mount both G's in the extended barrel might not work if I am right. I need to vary the distance between the two G's to get it to work unless I can find the exact perfect distance which would be a futile exercise.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GSS

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
The idea is the backwards GBall lens installed in front of a GBall intact diode restores the factory divergence as if the factory intact lens were removed but without removing it, then a normal primary collimating lens is used to act on the restored output.

You can focus the restored output just like you would focus the raw output of a sister diode with the factory GBall removed.

65327

65328

---edit---
I did a quick test with a NUBM42 which has horrible divergence and a random GBall from my collection of pulled Gballs so it's likely not exactly the same lens, even so you can see the natural raw output/bar..........this makes me think about some possible benefits of using a different GBall, but if you harvest a block you can use the can from a sister diode.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
Here's another quick test with a NUBM06 ( Factory GBall Intact )

Straight out of the factory GBall I get 6100mw and after adding a backwards DTR G2 and forward G8 I get 5300mw and the beam looks the same as if I removed the GBall and used only the G8

This should work very well for making use of the NUBM07 in projectors where you want to preserve the diodes lifespan by keeping the GBall intact.

The threaded brass coupler is 20mm long and was made by Rich/Lifetime17

I simply screw the G2 in backwards and it overlaps the GBall can and fits snugly, almost as if it was made for this, then attach the coupler and screw in the G8 which finds it's infinity focus threaded in to within 1/4 of a mm of the thumb adjuster, very nice and again almost as if it was.......ok I buy 16 18 and 20mm adaptors from Rich so it is made for this.

Also the 20mm long adaptor was made 12mm wide so they will fit inside a longer heat sink along with the 12mm copper module so this can be used in HH units as well, making for a nice module with added heat sinking.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
Great stuff Red.🍺

Tried tons of stuff yesterday and so far one that I like which I will post up when I get back to the house is flipping the lens element around in the DTR-G-3 which and found a great way to mount those large panasonic lenses using a 9mm diode mount and hollow back half. Lens mounts perfectly inthe seat for the 9mm diode and using a stiff spring it is held down by the hollow back half when screwed on. This entire module then screws onto the DTR-G-3 threading basically two modules back to back and gives good focus. There is some nice spatial filtering as well though the small hole in the hollow back half.

I will post up but you had mentioned keeping the element in the pocket clean. This method makes a perfect seal and centers very nice when screwed down on the ball lens can. if you have one maybe give it a try and let me know what you think.
 

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
I tested a backwards G8 on top of the GBall intact NUBM06 and the raw output was smaller ( seen at 4 inches on a backstop ) and the crossover ( waist ) is further out....Yes longer FL, then used a G8 to focus down the beam as tight as possible at 20 feet and the bar is wider than when I used the DTR G2 in front of the GBall intact 06 ( backwards of course ) and then the G8 to focus, so as I think you suggested before a shorter FL lens used backwards or a sister GBall will yield a better beam when refocused with a G8 or 3 element or G3 whatever the user wants, but matching the GBall or using a shorter FL lens backwards is yielding a smaller spot and better beam after focusing it all down with a G8 or 3 element or any given final focusing lens.

This is the backwards G8 on the GBall intact 06

65376


and this is the DTR G2 backwards on the intact 06

65377

So a short FL on top of the intact GBall, and don't worry about adjusting that distance as the beam out of the GBall is reasonably focused ( and diverging ) so as close as possible, then a long FL such as G8 is likely the best bet, we do the focusing of course with the final lens ( G8 ) and focus to distance or infinity. Beam shots in previous post.

---edit---

YES the large panny lens would be nice as a final focus for a tighter spot far field, but the beam will be a little thicker as FL increases. :D
Of course none of this corrects the aggressive divergence of the fast axis but lets us keep the Gball intact and focus as nearly normal after the backwards G2
 
Last edited:

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
Just to make sure you saw I did say G-3. Also the 08 ball lens and the G-3 element are separated only by the distance of the lip the G-3 sits on. I get a very nice slow spread which also is not absorbing into the walls of the housing any light before entering the panny lens.





Need to print out a black grid. Going to use them to do some divergence testing. Also this was just a test the size comes to about 4 boxes per inch. Will have to play around to make one print with exact spacing.
 

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
It's pretty much just a matter of focal length, I do wonder what a backwards sister GBall would yield, the only real benefit over a backwards G2 would be a slightly thinner beam, however I don't know that all GBalls are the same so the hyper aggressive GBalls could result in some edge clipping and with more divergent diodes such as NUBM42 and 49 but they are redundant to the 44 anyway, for the 07 which has 7A75 divergence I an curious about a backwards sister GBall vs G2 or other.........keep testing and see :D Also I bet a future multi watt green could be a GBall so as power goes up we will want to keep that factory gas seal.
 

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
Need to clean it back up with all the testing it got a little dirty which is the halo.











 

RedCowboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Messages
8,099
Points
113
Very nice.

Note of course your beam dia. and focused spot width with different combos.

Was that a NUBM07 in your video ?

Did you mount your panny lens in the module with a spring? I tested before with a panny lens in a coupler held with a spring but wanted a more solid seat for normal use, but for testing whatever works is great :D Also was that a panny lens in your video ? Backwards G3 then panny ?

If backwards G3 then panny make sure to compare beam dia. and focused spot width on your same wall with a backwards G2 and panny.
 
Last edited:

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,765
Points
113
Very nice.

Note of course your beam dia. and focused spot width with different combos.

Was that a NUBM07 in your video ?

Did you mount your panny lens in the module with a spring? I tested before with a panny lens in a coupler held with a spring but wanted a more solid seat for normal use, but for testing whatever works is great :D Also was that a panny lens in your video ? Backwards G3 then panny ?

If backwards G3 then panny make sure to compare beam dia. and focused spot width on your same wall with a backwards G2 and panny.
NUBM08 for good reference vs a NUBM44 as they are pretty close for raw output geomitry.

Yea I will need to get some spread numbers vs other lenses but here is the raw of a NUMB44 vs the raw from a NUBM08 with the G-3. The NUMB44 does not show all as some light is absorbing into the wall the G-3 is spreading slower so I am thinking it is all there. This is low power just to get the two bars visibing and show the huge difference which the video does not give any scale.





This is how it is mounted. I will have to find all my sample lenses and try many different pairings but here are two others that I have that may have promis. One is in a 7mm lens which just goies inside a 9mm lens barrel and the other is M9 but very short which I think might be useful as a lens housing in different scenarios we work out to make a good standard setup.






 

lasersbee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,628
Points
113
Interesting read and experiments with
the G-Ball lenses guys.(y)

Jerry
 




Top