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FrozenGate by Avery

Drivers with Modulation Capabilities??? RGB Handheld Variable?

IsaacT

IsaacT

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Hey guys,

I want to begin an RGB Handheld project. I have wanted one for a long time so yeah. What I am trying to figure out though is what drivers would be best to use. I want to use THIS bundle from DTR. But I want to be able to turn the current up or down to change the color easily. With a knob or something. And I don't think a flexdrive or microboost will be so kind.

Also, I plan to have a specialty host made that will allow me to align the beams as such: (from ARG's site regarding beam combining)

TF4zF.png


I figure the fewer bounces and whatnot I have to make, the easier this will be.

Any advice is welcome, this will not be an easy project I know, but I have some dichros and a strong desire to own a fully variable RGB handheld.

Thanks for reading,
-Isaac
 





By changing the color, do you mean switching between R,G,B and single colors or only 2 combined? If so that would soooooooooo awesome!!! If i were planning that, i'd have 3 individual drivers with switches hooked up to all of them. If you mean to be able to change the tone, i'm afraid i have no idea :D Still, if this project goes ahead, i'd love to see a build thread!
 
I want to be able to adjust the power of each diode individually so I could get any color I want. And that would include turning one off if I want. :)
 
Multimode did it first if I recall correctly. ***iest piece of laser I have ever seen. Here is the THREAD. And here is his video:

 
Complicated level over 9000 :D Would linear drivers hooked up to variable resistors work>? Maybe have like 3 sliders on the host... that would be pretty sweet. Only problem i see would be getting all of that into a portable unit.
 
It wouldn't be cheap or small, but 3 Flexmod P3's would allow you an enormous amount of control over the color of your RGB beam. You'd need a micro-controller and 3 good DAC's to pull it off (MCP4275 is probably what I would use).
-Jim
 
Just giving credit where it is due for that image, I borrowed it from Things' projector reference :D
Dichroic Mirror - Projector Reference

Check out this as well:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-white-fusion-laser-mixing-kit-42013.html#post550054
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/t...hite-fusion-kit-sightfx-41942.html#post548818

want to use THIS bundle from DTR. But I want to be able to turn the current up or down to change the color easily. With a knob or something.
Click to expand...
Easiest way I can think of to do that is to use an analogue driver, and have a potentiometer set up as a voltage divider to vary from 0-5V. Simple enough to do :)

If you need small analogue drivers, send me a PM. I'm working on something.

You could also go the microcontroller route and do it with TTL. :)

I figure the fewer bounces and whatnot I have to make, the easier this will be.
Click to expand...
An extra bounce on the green would actually make it easier to align.
 
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I have wanted to do a VBGGRR (405-450-520-532-638-650) set up for quite a while (definitely not handheld) with fully adjustable power to each diode. One thought i had was using all homemade linear LM317 drivers, and having a fine control pot to adjust the power to each. Not sure how feasible that is in a handheld though..
 
I might end up having to make it lab style but I want it to look legit! You know? The diodes will cost enough that I can't half ass it.
 
There's nothing wrong with a square handheld :D

In the right box it can look amazing.
35781d1325412881-ninja-mk-ii-445nm-chrome-phaser-front.jpg
 
The driver is where my last ended up stopping. I have a great set up to align the dichros and mirrors. I have a water block for the diodes, and I almost had a temp/Peltier controller. A nice big battery too. But nobody wanted to help me with my driver... except scammers. Maybe I should sell off the shit...
 
Do you need data input (TTL or Analog modulation) or just variable intensity? A variable linear driver is easy to make.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just variable intensity. Little knobs to control each one would be ideal.
 
You can use a MOSFET in series with a set resistor in a classic Constant Current LM317 linear driver and adjust the current from the driver by changing the voltage between the FET gate and source via a potentiometer. This way the full current range of the LM317 is accessible and there is nearly no power dissipation in the potentiometer, unlike if you were to use the pot in series with the set resistor. The MOSFET acts as a high power potentiometer in this case.
 
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