White Fusion




This laser kit allows you to mix your Red, Green and Blu-Ray (Violet) lasers to produce any color you like. Even white!

There are a few types of builds out there that are using this kit. 7 Color Hand Helds, Projector lasers, but the the best fit has to be the awesome driver FireMyLaser is building specifically for this kit: FS: Full Colour Driver Extension for the White Fusion kit

A video of it in action can be seen here: My RGV is Alive!




UPDATE: My Latest!



I am taking orders on an on going bases. White Fusion Kits can take anywhere from one day to 2 weeks depending on availability. No cash commitment required till kits are ready to ship.


A percentage of all sales will be donated to LPF.



See this kit in action:

built by LPF legend Jayrob: build-tips-7-color-laser-using-adjustable-sled-mount-heatsinks

firemylaser's http://laserpointerforums.com/f48/my-rgv-alive-48046.html#post653103"]My RGV is Alive![/URL]

misterwilling's >500mW White Fusion + FML Driver: Pics & Video

flaminpyro's White Fusion Colors






How-To


This how-to is not to replace the excellent tutorial Rog8811 originally made available HERE and to which this kit is based but rather how to prepare and put together this particular kit.

Warning: Do not attempt this build unless you understand laser safety and plan to use it in a safe, sane and legal manner. While following these instruction You Accept that you are building this laser systems at your OWN RISK and will hold the author of this how-to and Seller of the kit LEGALLY harmless from any and all LIABILITY.

Needed items not provided in this Customizable Kit:
1 Green Laser module and driver
1 Blu-Ray diode and driver
1 Red diode and driver
Batteries

Tools needed:
Safety Glasses (Laser and shop)
Jayrob’s highly sophisticated smoke in a bottle calibration tool.
Glass Glue or Epoxy

Other handy tools tools you may need for one reason or another like preparing the enclosure:
Grinder, belt sander, Files, Dremmal
Hacksaw or something similar
Vice, drill.



Setting up for success:

The Kit comes pre assembled with a stand-off post on the bottom for mounting the kit in your enclosure. I recommend mounting the kit to the lid of your enclosure so when it is open you have platform to work from. If you don’t want to do that you can finding a hard piece of thin cardboard or plastic to temporarily mount the kit too.

Having your drivers set to a low safe output to start with is also a good idea. No reason to kill your eyes when doing the alignment steps.



Laser Module Rotation:

The red and blu-ray modules will be first passing through a PBS (polarized beam splitter). A PBS has a reflective surface inside that has been set at a 45 degree angle. The polarized light that comes from a laser diode will either reflect or transmit thought the reflective surface depending on the orientation of the polarization being horizontal or vertical.


We want to make sure we get the most light through the optics and out of the sled that we can. To do this we need to rotate the blu-ray module so that it reflects as much light out of the PBS as possible and rotate the red module to transmit as much light through the PBS as possible.


So far I have found that aligning the diode so that the V shaped notches of the blu-ray are horizontal to the sled and aligning the reds’ “V” notches to be perpendicular produce the best results. If you have a LPM you can tweak the rotation to be ideal once everything is together but for now you can look behind the cube and in front of the blu-ray to see how much light is being lost through the PBS. You want that light to be as dim as you can get it.


We also want to turn the heat sink adjustment so that the springs are as tight as possible without the lenses bottoming out on the Hex bolts. Make small adjustments if needed so that the red and violet lasers are entering the sled as directly as possible. Mainly we want to make sure there is plenty of tension on the heat sink adjustments so that they will stay where we put them in our final adjustments.
[Illustration]

Dichro / Turning mirror Alignment:

Aligning the dichroic mirror so that the red+violet light and Green laser light mix well is the most crucial step tward the quality of your finished build. To do this we want to test beams alignment close to the aperture and later at a far.
To prepare for this you will need some way to see the beam. I use the highly sophisticated smoke in a bottle calibration tool brought to us by the clever jayrob.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/bu...nks-41942.html



Ideally you want to place the mirror where all three lasers intersect.



The differences here are subtle but can mean the difference between OK alignment and great alignment. It is hard seeing where the beams hit the mirror directly so I came up with a technique for marking where the lasers intersect.



Next I epoxy the mirror so that the reflective edge is cutting across the marked intersection. I use a clear 5min epoxy for this. At the point the epoxy is setting I adjust the angle of the mirror so that both laser beams remain aligned while exiting the sled aperture. This is where the smoke in a bottle comes into play. I use two cue tips on the upper corners to work the yaw and pitch of the mirror so that the lasers are as together in the bottle as I can get them. Once you are satisfied with the alignment of the mirror let the glue set and harden before doing anything else with the sled. Check on it every few minutes while your glue/epoxy hardens to make sure the angle didn't drift.



This is a shot of Jayrob's build after alignment. Great job Jay!


You are now ready to make your fine adjustments for distance.

To be continued.....
Something about using mirrors to maximize the room space and to be close to the dots when aligning...Credit to Jayrob again for sharing that with us....Bla bla bla .


Update: I finally got Chroma to work on my PC This is a great program to figure out what powers to use when blending lasers. Here are some graphs I have made based on the commonly available Blu-Ray diodes. The plot shows a circle on on the color you would get with the wavelength and power of lasers in the field at the upper left of the app. I tweaked the values to get a well balanced white.

6x BRD


8x BRD


12x BRD I believe I made a safe choice for 12x output with a continuous duty cycle.







Note about Enclosures:
It is important that the kit be suspended in the enclosure so that the enclosure itself does not change the alignment of the heat sinks.

Here is a list of enclosures with dimensions commonly used for this kit:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=HM958-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=HM1052-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=HM987-ND
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...&name=HM842-ND
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...me=377-1514-ND
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...&name=HM586-ND
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...name=HM1181-ND
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...me=1590WBBK-ND

I sometimes have enclosures in stock as well as other small parts used with these builds. Feel free to PM me with your requests.

Man this kit just keeps getting better and better! I really like the 'super size green mount' upgrade! In fact, I think I'll order one.

I recommend this kit 100%...

It is still a tricky build from rog8811, and recommended for those with some building experience, but with this kit, the hardest part of the build becomes easy!

Now named The White Fusion Kit! (good name Dave!)


Here are some 'full length' beam shots! (no smoke or fog, just the beam in the night sky with the camera on 'auto exposure')









You will be very happy with this build if you can get perfect beam alignment... (and power/color blend)

If it was not for this kit from sightfx, it would be very difficult to get the kind of alignment needed for these kind of 'full length' beam shots.

Awesome, can't wait for you to finish this

I'd like to see the final estimated price big up there on the top of the post

Also, could you change the links colours? Blue is kinda hard to read on the default template (not just for me, maybe other members will say the same thing).

Niko: I believe the "Whole Enchilada" so to speak was quoted at $160 or so in another thread - not bad once you figure in all the other little neccessities you're around $300 front to back for an INSANE little build!

How are the links now?

There really isn't a final price per say. This is a customizable kit depending on what you need and what you may want to do yourself. Options will expand as I add them. For instance the Super Sized Green mount was designed this week and you can upgrade that mount for an additional $30. It isn't needed but it sure looks good. I get what you mean though so for a fully loaded pachage at this point it would be
Heat Sink Mounts $120
Upgraded Green mount $30
Hollow Hex bolts kit $20
Cleaned up and ready sled $10

for a total of $180.

You may want to clean up your own sled and save the $10 or not upgrade the Green and save $30 more. You may even feel like you can build your own fasteners and not get the Hollow Hex bolts kit. A person could Simply epoxy the mounts to the sled for instance. That is why the pricing is broken down like I have it. So that builders of different levels can choose what they want.

Expected additions to the list will be clear enclosurs for sure, Battery holders, Spiro projectors and a mirror aligment service. Only problem with the mirror alignment is that I am not sure if the aligment will still be good when you use your modules and lenses when I aligned it using mine. I may even start selling plug and play lasers systems that only require the least of assembly skills like hooking up the battery but I like supporting DIYers so I may not go there.

Thanks,

Ryan

this is so COOL!!!

But expensive. . Dont get me wrong im sure its worth it.

but it is expensive.

Sightfx, this rocks! I love the look of the heatsinks. When it's all put together it looks like a commercial device. Thanks Jayrob for your review, it was spot on.

Thanks Millirad,

Developing them has been a lot of fun.


Thanks,

Ryan

Awesome, thanks a lot for listening and making the changes


PS: Are you planning to do a full build service? I know it's a lot of work but maybe some people aren't into the DIY world and just want to buy a final product.

^^

I'm still thinking about it...


-SightFX

I dont get the Super size option ? whats the difference ?

more heat sinking to the green modual...NICE KIT BTW! I gota pick one of these up some day! nice job

the 3 adjustable heat sinks for $120 are normaly all the same size. You can upgrade to a larger heat sink for your green module for $30 more.

Some Green modules will heat up and dim in a short amount of time so the extra large heat sink will help keep it cool and help eliminate the problem. It also looks cool.


Thanks,

Ryan

This kit is going to change this hobby forever!

Its only A 7 color laser kit with Analogue modulation.....Imagine TTL, Over 16 MILLION COLORS. Now that would be BadA$$

What beam splitter will one need to purchase? Or does a splitter come with the sled? Thats the only confusing part for a beginner like me.

The sled uses a PBS cube to combine red and blu-ray and a dichro to combine the green red and blu-ray. The optics are included in the PHR sled.

And the pbs cube and dichro are already attached to the sled right?

The PBS cube is already attached. And you will have to re-position the Turning mirror as shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/bu...nks-41942.html

This is a 'touchy' part of this build. You will want the green module installed, and at least one of the other lasers installed before you do the final positioning of the turning mirror. (I recommend using the red laser, because the blu-ray beam seems wider. Or at least that is how our eyes perceive it)

Have the adjustment screws all the way tight, and then back them off about 1/2 turn. That way you will have the spring tension as tight as possible, and still have some room for adjustment.

Also have your lasers rotated for best power through the optics.

You must get the mirror adjusted so that you have beam alignment at aperture. (along with dot alignment as close as possible)

Then later you can adjust the mounts for dot alignment at distance...
Jay

This prototype here has analog modulation. I didn't have a DAC to control it yet so at the time of the picture the mod input was connected directly to the onboard +5V. I want to build a smaller one now using flexMod drivers by DrLava. Should all be small enough to all fit in the next box size down and be pocket sized. Add a controler with a DAC and spiro for things like rainbow spiro effects. May still fit lol?



-Ryan

WOW... i am SO buying one of these now. i passed on it before because i actualy wanted to wait until it was developed a little more... but looks like that time has come!

before i forget... what is a "FlexMod" driver? is that slang for a flexv4 or something?

This kit is simply amazing, breathtaking even. You have LITERALY turned a $10,000 product, into a $300 user customizable kit! thats freakin incredible. never in my wildest dreams did i ever immagine i could own a 7 colour laser... you have answered many peoples prayers my friend!

I absolutely can NOT wait to see further improvements.

Would a 30mW green be suitable for this project, or should i go 40-50 to make it a little brighter...? i ask because i know green will drown out the others if its too powerful. another reason would be to figure out if i need the green heatsink upgrade or not.

I have a 50mW that stays on for 20 mins at a time and it has NEVER mode hopped on me.

Dark

FlexMod is another driver from DrLava that is designed for modulation. For anyone who doesn't know Modulation allows you to control the intensity of each laser with a 0V to 5V signal input. TTL and Analog are the two types. TTL Modulation uses on off pulses to control the intensity based on how frequent the pulses are. Analog Modulation uses a variable voltage from 0V to 5V to control the intensity. By doing this with the 3 colors Red Green Blue or in this case Red Green and UV you can get millions of colors out of this beuty.

Here is a link to the FlexMod and the sight I found the driver I used in the pic.

FlexMod
Norms RGB Driver

I found norms driver to be a bit tedious to build so the FlexMods will be my next choice. We will see how it goes.


I use a 50mw Green with my BDR and I still have to turn it down a bit so your call. 30mw may work but if your 50mw is that stable I would go with that.

-Ryan

Awsome, thank you for the information.

I will be ordering a full blown kit very soon. what kind of a wait should i expect?

Dark

I will also order the "Full package"

Does the full package also include a cleaned up PHR sled?

Hi Guys,

I will make a few sets this weekend if there is time. I'm holding off on outsourcing some of the parts till the demand is higher.

So is shipped Monday soon enough?


Thanks,
Ryan