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FrozenGate by Avery

Driver Compilation Thread - All Drivers In Just One Thread!

chipdouglas said:
brand: lava
version: v5
type: buck/boost
votage input range: 3.5-5.5dc
current range: up to 1amp
fits in aixiz
price: 23usd

brand: "ddl"
liner driver
voltage input up to 20vdc + voltage needed for diode
current range: up to 2amps
Type: home made
does not fit in aixiz (good for project box type of set up)
price: up to 10 usd

michael
Click to expand...

Hi Chip, I thought MicroFlexDrive V5 current range is up to 1.5amp :thinking:
 

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i could have a bad one, it could be my batt. IDK. but this convo is good because it lets potential users aware of different possibilites that can be applied to their application.

michael
 
I wonder if anybody have tried to categorise drivers by basic operating principle?
(Or at least dumb down the descriptions)

1) The lm317 type appear to vary it's internal resistance to achieve an controlled output current or voltage depending on configuration.

Advantage: simplicity.
Disadvantages:
Supply voltage must be >1.2V above needed for the diode.
Loss of energy/battery time
Heat sinking may be required.


2) Switch mode.
Supply voltage is reduced by charging an external capacitor, and then matching the on/off time to keep it charged at correct voltage.

3) Boost.
An external coil is switched fast to produce an increased voltage through the coil kickback.

4) Buck-Boost.
One IC contain both switch mode and boost circuits will use external coil and capacitor to give an output that can be both above and below it's supply.

Did I get this right?
 
Kookapeli said:
I've had a look around and can't seem to find any answers

I've been lookikng at this Driver Laser Driver Board V3 - Detailed item view - OdicForce Lasers Online Shop

It says it can handle diodes up to 250mW and the Max output is 300mA Does this mean if it was run at 300mA the diode would output 250mW and would the ideal input be 4-5v + the power needed to power the diode ?
Click to expand...

You probably won't get 250mW output at 300mA, (more likely to need 380-400mA for that). It seems to suggest that the driver suits those diodes as I suspect 300mA would be too much for the 100mW diodes also sold there.

The input power is 4-5V. This will provide power for the board and the diode and you will see this information stated in this way for most components.

M
:)
 
Thought I would just add that if you want a "dirt cheap" 1.5 amp driver for your labby "quick". You can run on over to radio shack and grab 3 lm317 regulators and 3 5ohm resistors and they run nicely in parallel splitting the current up for 500ma times three. I was using 7.2 volts(2Xcr123) to drive this parallel set-up and test it until I substitute my computer ATX power supply for the batteries. Someone thought that the 3 regulators would fight each other, but that doesn't happen. Even though you could heat sink and run the regulators higher, I think this is one of the many "easy" ways to go. If you use an ATX PSU, remember that it's a switching supply and you need to provide a load resistor say 10ohm 10 watt from your voltage tap to ground, or the caps will fry when powering up without the driver/laser diode hooked-up. I'll also be dropping 12 volts down to ~6-7 volts from the ATX. I don't think the 5 volt tap from the ATX is sufficient to get the current up on the 3 ddl drivers in parallel.
 
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Morgan said:
You probably won't get 250mW output at 300mA, (more likely to need 380-400mA for that). It seems to suggest that the driver suits those diodes as I suspect 300mA would be too much for the 100mW diodes also sold there.

The input power is 4-5V. This will provide power for the board and the diode and you will see this information stated in this way for most components.

M
:)
Click to expand...

I shoud of waited for my parts to arrive before I asked any questions:yabbem:
The didode shows the mA to mW output ration using divverent voltages.

From what I see using the OFL144 Driver (I got free from Odicforce :D) using it on 5V I can safely run it at 200mA to get about 100mW output, does that sound about right ?
 
there are so many variables. i don't think anybody here can tell you "hey, you have this ma, at this volt and you will see this mw."

michael
 
chipdouglas said:
there are so many variables. i don't think anybody here can tell you "hey, you have this ma, at this volt and you will see this mw."

michael
Click to expand...

addendum:

before, during, or after which the diode may burn up, die prematurely, live a long life, or just plain stay darkened.

choose one.
 
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Shouldn't it be possible to go from diode type/markings, to data sheet, to really good idea of what the diode is designed for?
 
Ok, as I suspected, the +5 volt tap from my ATX, couldn't sufficiently drive my ddl drivers. So I went from +12 volt tap to +5 volt tap, which gave me ~ 6.8 volts. This voltage doesn't punish my LM317 regulators, in that they don't get extremely hot with their built-in heat sinks. Tomorrow I will be running 4 LM317 regulators in parallel to get up to ~1.5 amps. This will be my labby psu set-up. I'll have pics when I confirm that this works. Styropyro has a similar labby set-up already. However, I don't think he is using 4 ddl supplies to get a searing hot burner. ;-) BTW, I'm using a massive copper heat sink for the 445 LD.
 
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