Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Custom Build Nichia NDB7875 in C8 Host

Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
22
Points
0
Hello Guys,
i want to introduce you finally my finished Build .
Here are the List of the Compontents i Use:

- Nichia NDB7875 in Copper Module with G2 lens :drool:
- Super X Drive V3 Buck :san:
- Efest IMR 18350 V2 800mAh
- Convoy C8 Flashlight
- Custom Heatsink :drool::angel:
- Eagle Pair 190-540nm safety google OD6+ :beer: cause safety First
- Extendet Focusing Ring
- Custom Handmade Lanyard from me with 550 Paracord

I think i need no explaination of the Diode, Module,Batterys and Safety googles.

The Super X Driver was Thermally attached to the Heatsink with Arctic MX4 Thermal Grease which i use for every thermal attachment :drool:. For fixing it, i put little dots of 2k epoxy on the sides of the Driver.:drool:

For the Contact Board i took an Nanjg 16mm Driver and cut all interconnects with the Dremel. Only Thing i left there was the Negative pads of the AMC chips which i Bridged for Better resistance. After that i drilled a small hole for the Positive Wire to the Brass Pill which my Friend also machined me. :D :)

the interesting thing is the Heatsink. It is Machined out of Aluminium, then little "cooling" fins was milled in and then filled up with a mix of 2k epoxy and GITD powder. After that the Aluminum was Drilled out for Pressing a Copper shell in. The Copper shell was now drilled to 12H7 with a reamer for a nice finish. After that the set screw was placed with a milling machine. After all it gets a nice polished finish but at assembly i put some scratches in... But you guys know that stuff to well .. :D

The Host is an normal Convoy C8 Flashlight with integrated Head. The spring on the Tailcap was bridget with silicone Wire 0,25 mm² and the Complete Soldering was done with Sn99Cu1+ML. I Switched the O rings and Tailcap rubber to a Green GITD for nicer Look. :angel:


At the first current measurements at the Tailcap it Draws about 1.8A @ about 8,4V . seems to be ok :) :D

But at the first outside test without googles and good caution. "My Eyes just pop out " :D:D It is many better and nicer then i tought. Im so completely happy with this Build its soo fun. Nice Beam , cool Look. More then i expect thank you all guys for helping me.:san::drool:

a special thanks for DTR and Survivallasers for giving me good Quality parts really Fast. And enable me this nice build. :san::san:


But enough words, i let pictures speak :D :):) :angel:

11345-k1600-dsc-1908.jpg


11346-k1600-dsc-1909.jpg


11347-k1600-dsc-1910.jpg


11348-k1600-dsc-1918.jpg


11349-k1600-dsc-1920.jpg


11350-k1600-dsc-1921.jpg


11351-k1600-dsc-1922.jpg


11352-k1600-dsc-1925.jpg


11353-k1600-dsc-1926.jpg


11354-k1600-dsc-1929.jpg


11355-k1600-dsc-1930.jpg


11356-k1600-dsc-1931.jpg


11357-k1600-dsc-1932.jpg


11358-k1600-dsc-1933.jpg


11359-k1600-dsc-1935.jpg


11360-k1600-dsc-1936.jpg


11361-img-0888.jpg


11362-img-0890.jpg


BTW: All Units are Metric
Thank you Guys,
Hope you enjoy it :):) i do :)
Best regards
Nico
 
Last edited:





BowtieGuy

0
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
6,090
Points
113
Good looking build Nexxos; I really like your custom aluminum/copper heatsink, nice work! :)
 

Ricker

0
Joined
Oct 14, 2015
Messages
626
Points
63
Wow, great job! I owe you a +REP when I can, I'm fresh out! :) I love that custom heatsink that's beautiful. Do you find you get better thermal transfer when using Arctic grease and epoxy instead of Arctic thermal adhesive, or never tried it?
 
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
6,783
Points
113
Hi Nico,
Great combo with the sink and host and also the 7875/SXD in line @1.8A. I set my SXD's for the 7875 @ 2.4A and wow what a power house for that diode. The host you used is perfect for that build ,i have many like that but they are side button which i like but can't find them anymore they were the C11's for 2-18350's or 1-18650 cells. The duty cycles for your build will be very long with that sinking so don't be afraid to use it .and your only running it at 1.8A so no problems with that Buddy..= Rep+

Rich:)
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
22
Points
0
Hello,
Thanks for the flowers guys :) :)
I took thermal grease because the heat transfer should be a little higher and in this case I can just cut the little glued points of the edges from the driver and can use it in another Build :) if I ever want it :). And it's a lot better then these thermal pads :).

I measure 1.8A at the Tailcap so with 2S Liion setup. The Driver is a step down so it steps the 8.4V down to around 5V for the diode. At the diode there should be 2.4A because it's a 2,4A super x Drive :) :):), will maybe measure it today with my current clamp meter :):).

Thank you all, nice Forum here, :) also thanks for help in safety questions. It's now exactly what I want from the hobby. A nice, good quality ( with selected parts I choose) Laser build:):). And I feel so comfortable and safe with my eagle pair, it's worth every penny :):). No headache or eye dryness or so :). And this will not be the last build :). Fits perfectly with my expensive flashlights :D



By the way, I don't know if this is a stupid question but at around how far a direct look into the beam can cause damage? . I mean like 100, 200 meters or so. I ask because when I shine in the sky ( only when there are no animals or airplanes visible) if I accidentally hit a flying bird which I don't see in the night. Sorry for this maybe stupid question but I just keep an eye on my environment.

Nest regards from Germany :)
Nico
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
22
Points
0
Hello,
Thanks for answer. Then I have to look carefully for Birds :). yesterday I measured the current at the Diode and it was exactly 2.41A :):):) Measured with my UNI-T clamp Meter :):). Works well :)

Best regards
Nico
 




Top