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Collection of Laser Die/Emitter Photos

RedCowboy

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I got my 1000X scope today and it looks like I was able to focus through the front window/mirror of this NUBM06 ( same diode as before ) and can see the P/N junction.

The focus is very depth sensitive.

What do you think?




Also the front window/FAC ?? seems to have raised edges like pillars, I have caught those lines before but now see it better.

 

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paul1598419

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Nice photos as I know how sensitive these high power magnification scopes are. But, there is no FAC lens on this diode, so whatever you are seeing it can't be that. Great photos, though.
 

RedCowboy

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I believe you're correct that it's not a FAC, I was just throwing out a spitball, also not all diodes have those raised ends on the emitter, this blown diode is a NUBM07 I think IIRC but I see it's one that I gave the 36 volt send off as I often do when a diode has gone weak, what's interesting that I see is the melted bond wires and where the emitter burned through, it looks lower than the 06/44 with the raised edges, I do know that the NUBM44 has a larger emitter compared to the anti static device and that last pic I posted looks like the P/N exit could be higher, still it seems that the energy exits from a small area likely at the P/N junction and not the entire front of the emitter which would make sense.



 

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Alaskan

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Love this thread. Good to see what you found, I had no idea that little of the emitter actually produced the light. I wonder if the gold wires which melted were due to some kind of failure in the semiconductor, or just from being driven so hard beyond rating, as we do.

Found this pic today, yep, thats a small junction for the output.

 
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RedCowboy

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This diode was not putting out but maybe 1/2 brightness so I intentionally cranked up a 36V 10A PS and zapped the heck out of it, the bond wires melted and the emitter likely revealed it's self when it blew although the emitter burn through could have been from running can-less until it was down to half brightness, or possibly a combination of both, but we can now see it.

This explains why these higher output diodes need the sealed can/window as oxygen or any airborne contaminant could easily cause damage at that high energy density, funny I just remembered burning a clothes pin in front of a de-canned nubm06 emitter without a lens and as the smoke started it died in seconds...DUH right, air is full of fine particulates, but even oxygen could break down into ozone and that's erosive isn't it?

 
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DashApple

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Some nice shots guys!
I like this one, nice and sharp, good depth of field, and you can clearly see the FAC lens stuck to the front of the LD.
Thanks , I used a DSLR and very short FL lens to take the picture .
 
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paul1598419

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At the high currents we push these diodes with, it takes very little to degrade or destroy one. If the diode's window can remain free from debris, I believe it has a much better chance of a long survival time when compared to these contaminated windows. Unfortunately, I am not sure it can be effectively cleaned once it becomes contaminated.
 

astralist

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Thanks for all the picture guys!!


@Redcowboy: for some reason, your picture on post #33 are blocked by my government, IDK why :crackup:



My open can diode are now giving me only about 2/3 power compared to when first time i bought it and measure the output.
I opened the lens barrel quite rarely (just when to clean the lens and such) it's inevitable.

Quite dilemma then, by using closed can the window could melt, but using open can will degrade the diode fast.

BTW, guys
I'm quite curious, what kind of metal do the packaging of laser diode made of?
I've a quite assumption that it's a gold :crackup:
It does not look like a brass at all. :D
 
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RedCowboy

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I have only burned through 1 x M140 and 1 x NUBM44 can window, and I have over a dozen happy diodes right now, but I don't take the lenses in and out except during the build or if I need to replace a cracked 3 element, I know we are much safer with the ( can & window ) than without it.

I mentioned it in the 44 thread that I like to use a 3 ele with a 3X BE and also a G2 with a 6X cylindrical pair and then a BE or not, but either way the diode is protected as the BE gets all the adjusting and the diode's primary lens (3E or G2 ) stays fixed where I set it usually between 20 and 100 feet with 100 and infinity being about the same.

It's really easy to use a 3 element and a 3X BE and you get a longer working range as well as a protected diode window, but I have not gone this route out of necessity.

If you are really concerned you can order your diode pressed into a module by DTR with a lens of your choice ( G2 or 3E ) already installed then you can simply leave your G2 or 3E lens in place and focus as needed without removing the lens unnecessarily.

Now in the case of GBall diodes I have used the NUBM06 with GBall lens intact followed by a 3X BE with good results, it just depends on the GBall lens RX, they vary from block to block as the OEM requires.





astralist can you see this pic and the emitter? If so it could be a word that's causing it to be blocked.
 
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paul1598419

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Those gold looking structures in laser diodes are actually gold plated. There is not enough retrievable gold in there to make it worth any effort.
 

diachi

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Those gold looking structures in laser diodes are actually gold plated. There is not enough retrievable gold in there to make it worth any effort.

Unless you can get a sack of dead LDs/LD mounts for cheap or free.
 
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What camera/lens are you guys using? I would love to take some macro photos but I don't think any of my lenses can focus that close.
 

RedCowboy

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BobMc

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15.00 dollars for the camera? Not bad at all! Love the micro pics, think there fascinating.
 

Alaskan

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I'm not sure what to believe on ebay, some show this as 500x, others 1000x. Some show 2 MP, others 5 MP for what appears to be an identical unit.

Edit: RCB, that ebay link you posted said 5 MP, but reading the listing is 1600 x 1200 which is 2 MP.
 
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RedCowboy

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My old one is not near as strong, however this new one has a zoom button so it appears to be a digital zoom on top of the lens magnification, it is better than the old one as you can see from my pics, maybe not as much as the claims but for 15 dollars you can't beat it. The Image is sharper before using the digital zoom, it has 5X digital zoom so that would be 200x by the lens which is a lot sharper pic although smaller detail.
Mine claimed 2.0 mega pixel, if I had seen the 5.0 I would have ordered that, but my advert did not mention the 5X digital, I think they just send out whatever is current, it did say 1000x manual so I kinda got flim flamed on that, but for 15 bucks I won't complain.

OLD SCOPE



NEW SCOPE
 
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