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FrozenGate by Avery

Class4 607nm Handheld

farbe2

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
314
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63
Hey guys,

after stumbling across Gryphons new 577nm build, I decided to finally post my 607nm build.

Disclaimer: the pictures are altered to better reflect the real beam color.

Lets start with a nice beamshot picture.
fog.jpeg


It's a Class 4 607nm handheld laser.

This project was the most advanced I ever pulled off, it includes optics design, thermal design, electronic design, milling, soldering, anodizing and programming.
The project started as a group project with Alaskan, CurtisOliver and me, sadly both of them pulled out of the project for personal reasons.

So far only one of these handhelds exist and I really dont plan to make another one. The material cost and time invested is astronomical which means the price I would charge would be close to the price of a new 607nm 1,25W Coherent taipan (so close to 20k..).

With the background out of the way, lets dive a little deeper and look at the specs.

It uses a Pr:YLF crystal thats pumped with a 5W NUBM44 diode.
The crystal and the diode are thermally stabilized with a TEC each.
The driver is custom made and features heating and cooling for both tecs.
Two 18650 cells power that beast of a handheld.
Whats the output you might ask? Just barely class 4? No we got a full 1500mW out of the crystal!

Lets do a beamshot picture first:
beamsot_full.jpeg

The color is really unique, 607nm is just a very nice orange. Most cameras show it as drifting towards red, however to my eye its just perfect pumpkin orange.

The beam specs I archived are very nice.
The beam diameter out of the front is 1,1mm .
The small diameter makes that handheld an awesome burner, even unfocused!
burn.jpg
1/2 a second, 10cm on a wooden ruler.

Far field is also impressive:
spot.jpeg
Almost perfectly round with an M² of around 1,1. This gets me a beam of roughly 7mm at 6m distance.

Lets take a look onto the internals, the driver first:
display.jpeg
It's very small, just 39x20mm, thats close to the size of two 18650 cells next to each other.
A 5,6mm diode for comparison. You can also see a glimpse of the user interface.
The Home screen shows all the temperatures, battery states, set pump power level and how much power the tecs are consuming.
The color of the bar below the temperature shows if the tecs are heating (red) or cooling (blue) with the fill percentage showing the amount of power.

display_2.jpeg
Another picture of the Userinterface. It shows the menu system thats used to select and adjust values. The shown menu is just for one tec, there are multiple menus.

But back to the internals:
bracket.jpeg
The driver is mounted on a small bracket that holds it mechanically and dissipates the heat onto the housing.
back_bracket.jpeg
I anodized it to prevent shorts and to make it look nice even tough nobody will ever see it :D
glued.jpeg
With the driver being adhered to the bracket. A special thermal adhesive is used.
Not everybody likes electronics as much as I am, so back to a different part, the pump diode holder.
It's just a simple holder for the 9mm diode. Its made out of copper to facilitate heat transfer.
diode holder.jpeg
Again a 5,6mm diode for size comparison. The tec thats used to keep the diode at temperature is also pictured.

(next post because of picture limit)
 
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Everybody likes to see the business end, the Crystal that does all the work:
crystal.jpeg

It takes the blue 444nm laser radiation and converts it into 607nm. 639nm and 523nm are also possible. Its expected to get a little higher powers with 639nm or 523nm, however these wavelengths aren’t as interesting to me.

Lets take a look onto the housing. The design is mostly dictated by thermals and being as small as possible because why not.

I think I done quite well.
The end caps where milled out of 6061 and also hold the PCB that connects the batterys to the electronics.

front_back.jpeg

back_front.jpeg

The PCB slides into place and contacts the 18650 cells with beryllium copper contacts to ensure lowest resistance for lowest losses. Otherwise the battery voltage would sag too much and ruin the runtime. Runtime is actually very good IMHO, I would get around 30min at full power. I often run the laser at just around 100mW or even just 2-5mW to be somewhat eyesafe which results in very long runtimes.

bar.jpeg

Yes these are copper bars. They connect the driver PCB to the battery box. Again, high performance demands good engineering.
The bars are space efficient while still offering high cross section e.g. low resistance.

battery.jpeg

The internal „battery box“ holds two cells next to each other. A pogo pin contacts the mid point of the series connection of cells. This way, the handheld can protect both batterys against over discharge.

housing.jpg

I milled the housing out of a full billet of 6061 aluminum.
Its quite thin in places but thats to get the weight down.

The fins are milled with a small ball nose tapered end mill.--- That to AGES!
I think I got around 6h machining time per housing half.
And Murphy got me and made me scrap the first housing, I drilled straight trough..

test_fit.jpeg

At least its good enough for a test fit. I used that case half to check all the other milling operations.

both.jpeg
With both half done, I started test fitting everything.
Shiny!

Next step, anodizing, turned out very nice, however I needed two tries to get the finish right.
anodized.jpeg
Last pic for today:

weight.jpeg

I think I nailed the size. Outside dimensions are 176mm long, 49mm wide and 32mm hight, ignoring the rotary button.Fit and Finish is just awesome IMHO, its quite heavy but that makes it feel very valuable.


Thanks for reading.
 
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Sweet Jesus that thing is amazing! The build quality is impeccable and the color of that beam is gorgeous. Looks like you've already made very good use of that new driver you made.

I'm curious to know more about the optical train, how do you keep the green and red lines from interfering with the orange one?
 
Done like in every other solid state or gas laser: The mirror coatings of the OC and HR are optimized for 607nm. 639 and 523 pass straight trough e.g. have high transmission which results in too low gain for them to start oscillating.
However I tried 523nm just for the heck of it (different mirrors).
532.jpeg

This picture shows the output out of the crystal. The cavity is badly aligned in this picture. The blue bar is the residual pump light leaking trough. The green dot is the actual 523nm line emitted by the crystal.
 
Very cool! I'm going to have to read up on the 607nm laser, being able to build one would be incredible
 
Excellent work! I bet that orange beam is incredible.
This type of laser has been on my list for a long time. Are you doing this out of a home workshop or do you have a professional shop?
Whatever the case is, I'm a little jealous - I've barely got room for my mini mill and a handful of other small machines. I'd like to have space for an anodizing and electroplating corner one day.
 
Thanks everyone!
It took over a 3/4year for me to finish everything in my free time.

I think I did good when I compare the performance of the handheld to a 20k€+ 607nm opsl.

The OPSL is bigger in every regards without even including a power supply. It takes more power, needs more cooling and its head alone is bigger than my completed unit.

Granted, the OPSL is surely better in every other regard. I don’t have lifetime data for my handheld, I don’t know the power and pointing stability.

However, for me it’s quite an achievement!
It’s my first dpss / solid state laser in general. Never build a TEA or a Dye laser before. Only diode lasers.
 
I always wanted to try that but could not make myself pull the trigger on the crystal.

i noticed you can buy the crystal on eBay now for around 600.00
 
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I'm commenting because more people need to see this. I've been out of the hobby almost 10 years and never even thought that a blue diode pumped laser like this was possible!

To put things into perspective a quick search shows that the cost for the Pr:YLF alone is around 640 € for a single ⌀5 mm crystal...
 
Well since the thread is semi warm are you willing to share / sell the driver and display part?
 
I still have some empty PCBs waiting to be populated. I didn’t calculate it but it’s likely going to cost 200-300€ per driver with display and software.

That thing is tiny and uses over 120 parts. (So much labor to solder all that)
All parts are expensive.

That tiny 39x20mm driver can do 6A into the diode and two times 6A for the tecs. The tec drivers are fully programmable (PID values with voltage limit) and are able to heat and cool.

I made a thread ages ago in the driver section.
Link
 





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