Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

building my first, yay!

crocie said:
i heard (cant remember where) that if you give it a constant current, the diode heats up and somehow draws more current?
*hopes im not completly wrong*
Where did you hear that? :-?
 





Yea I think that happens with PHR's.But I think it only happens with linear drivers. :-/
 
can you explaine? or point me to a topic ::)
 

Attachments

  • orly.jpeg
    orly.jpeg
    40.8 KB · Views: 146
I can't remember where in the forum it was discussed. However, more than one user noticed this in the early tests of the PHR-803T. It was speculated that it was this "thermal runaway" that was causing the "seemingly random" failure of these diodes. This idea is the real reasoning behind the recommendation for limited duty cycles at higher currents. If you are already running the diode near its upper limit, and then it heats up and starts increasing its current draw by itself, you have a dead diode. Sometimes a diode that is set at a seemingly safe current, will heat to the point that it starts drawing more power and commits suicide.

The most recent work (mostly by IgorT) is showing that it may be the amount of reflected photons that slowly erode the diode face. This is why IgorT has been working on the new lenses. Power is nice. Predictable longevity is better. For most people, once the 405nm beam is powerful enough to be "seen", any additional output is just for bragging rights. Unfortunately, this "visibility threshold" is different for different people.

Peace,
dave
 
crocie said:
http://store.oemlasersystems.com/in...id=420&zenid=0ea936ed7d2975237fcff917b8380b86

These are certified ;)
I don't even know what wavelength the military ones protect...
 
military ones potect at 694.3 nm

ahh, thanks dave! knew i wasnt going crazy ;D
 
ooooook,

so, i have:
one host.
two 3.6V CR123A batteries.
one rkcstr driver set at 402mA.
one 20X driver inside axzis driver.
one jayrob heatsink.

access to solder and soldering iron.
is it pretty much simple, 'no way to fuck it up' from here? ::)
 
crocie said:
ooooook,

so, i have:
one host.
two 3.6V CR123A batteries.
one rkcstr driver set at 402mA.
[highlight]one 20X driver inside axzis driver[/highlight].
one jayrob heatsink.

access to solder and soldering iron.
is it pretty much simple, 'no way to fuck it up' from here? ::)
You mean one 20x diode inside an aixiz module?

Ya, it is pretty simple from there.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1186966870

Just follow the tutorial, but instead of using the homemade driver, use the rckstr, and instead of using the washer, use the heatsink ;)
BTW, solder wires from the driver to the diode, and do not solder it directly to the pins because it will not fot that way.
 
o shit important,

does the driver that is already inside the flashlight need to be removed? im really confused :s

edit:
it seems it needs to be there for the batteries to have contact. :s
 
crocie said:
aha, that sounds right

thanks for quick response!!
Good luck ;)
Remember, do not keep the soldering iron on the diode for more than 3 seconds. Work in quick touches.
 
helllllllp

ill give 2 pics, which each say something different :s
which one is right for my build?  ::)
 

Attachments

  • LD1.JPG
    LD1.JPG
    34.9 KB · Views: 161
which is positive and which is negative?
 

Attachments

  • LD2.jpg
    LD2.jpg
    145.7 KB · Views: 603





Back
Top