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FrozenGate by Avery

building my first, yay!

Spyderz20x6 said:
If you are doing a jayrob build, you might wanna buy a 20x open can. These can do 300mW at 420mA. You can PM TheMonk and buy one for $36 installed in an AixiZ module, and the current you want is 420mA, because with a jayrob heatsink, this will give you a nice, long duty cycle. The power difference between a 16x and a 20x is actually quite noticable. Check out the link in my signature for ALOT of info on building your first laser.

[highlight]BTW, the 16x set at 300mA and the 20x set at 420mA have a ~100mW difference [/highlight];)
Click to expand...

Yes, Spyder is right. But just to add some more specifics on these numbers. I have built quite a few at the 420mA - 430mA range, and you will see 300mW's only when using a Meredith glass lens. Usually closer to 430mA's will give you this power. With an acrylic lens, it will be more like 420mA's = 245mW's; 430mA's = 250mW's. This has been very consistent.

At this power, you definitely want to get a good heatsink in there, and still use a conservative duty cycle...
Jay
 





jayrob said:
[quote author=Spyderz20x6 link=1223985900/0#8 date=1224119075]
If you are doing a jayrob build, you might wanna buy a 20x open can. These can do 300mW at 420mA. You can PM TheMonk and buy one for $36 installed in an AixiZ module, and the current you want is 420mA, because with a jayrob heatsink, this will give you a nice, long duty cycle. The power difference between a 16x and a 20x is actually quite noticable. Check out the link in my signature for ALOT of info on building your first laser.

[highlight]BTW, the 16x set at 300mA and the 20x set at 420mA have a ~100mW difference [/highlight];)
Click to expand...

Yes, Spyder is right. But just to add some more specifics on these numbers. I have built quite a few at the 420mA - 430mA range, and you will see 300mW's only when using a Meredith glass lens. Usually closer to 430mA's will give you this power. With an acrylic lens, it will be more like 420mA's = 245mW's; 430mA's = 250mW's. This has been very consistent.

At this power, you definitely want to get a good heatsink in there, and still use a conservative duty cycle...
Jay


[/quote]
I have an open can at 280mW set at 420mA using an AixiZ glass :o
 
That's an abnormal diode you got there Spyder! Did you check the driver current yourself? Wish I had one like that. 8-)

The hottest 'above average' open can that I have, is giving 279mW's @ 452mA's. That's with an AixiZ acrylic. With an AixiZ glass, it would be about 288mW's...
Jay
 
jayrob said:
That's an abnormal diode you got there Spyder! Did you check the driver current yourself? Wish I had one like that. 8-)

The hottest 'above average' open can that I have, is giving 279mW's @ 452mA's. That's with an AixiZ acrylic. With an AixiZ glass, it would be about 288mW's...
Jay
Click to expand...
Ya, i checked the current myself. I was pretty amazed too 8-)
 
Here's a few tips for your project:
1. Don't forget to short the capacitor.
2. Don't forget to short the capacitor.
3. DON'T FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR.
4. DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR.
5. DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR!

Also, if you still need that Lavadrive I can sell you one.
 
don't forget to short the capaciter?

uhh, seems theres some things im missing here, thanks Jimmymcjimthejim!

you probs saved me a shit load of trouble ;D

umm, is there any fool-proof way of assembling this? (i have no room for errors  :-/)

also, does anyone know anywhere i can find a circuit diagram and/or description of the theory of the driver?
 
crocie said:
don't forget to short the capaciter?

uhh, seems theres some things im missing here, thanks Jimmymcjimthejim!

you probs saved me a shit load of trouble ;D

umm, is there any fool-proof way of assembling this? (i have no room for errors  :-/)

also, does anyone know anywhere i can find a circuit diagram and/or description of the theory of the driver?
Click to expand...
Wait...
Did you buy the unassembled kit!?!
You do know that you couldv'e bought an assembled driver...
 
Jimmymcjimthejim said:
Here's a few tips for your project:
1. Don't forget to short the capacitor.
2. Don't forget to short the capacitor.
3. DON'T FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR.
4. DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR.
5. DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR!

Also, if you still need that Lavadrive I can sell you one.
Click to expand...

I think you missed one ::) ;D

6. DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT THE CAPACITOR

EDIT: Since he is getting the driver preset at a current, why would he need to? It will already come shorted.
 
it will already come shorted? and yea, its assembled and preset.

thats kinda a relief :)

and wen i said assembling, i ment the entire laser, host and all. i mean, are there any common mistakes that cant be reversed?
 
crocie said:
it will already come shorted? and yea, its assembled and preset.

thats kinda a relief :)

and wen i said assembling, i ment the entire laser, host and all. i mean, are there any common mistakes that cant be reversed?
Click to expand...
Make sure not to leave your soldering iron on the diode for more than 2 seconds. Work quickly and concisely. Make sure your hands and/or tools are not charged with static. Make sure that no contact points are touching when you are done. It would also be best to use heatshrink tubing, but if you can't get it, then use electrical tape at least (on the ends of wires).

That's about it ;)
 
cool :)

i Know its very unwise to use the diode without a driver, and i kinda understand what its for, but are there any good explanations out there for exactly what, why and how it does what it does?
 
crocie said:
cool :)

i Know its very unwise to use the diode without a driver, and i kinda understand what its for, but are there any good explanations out there for exactly what, why and how it does what it does?
Click to expand...
It is there to regulate current, which is what it does :-?
 
oh, i just read that again. I literally didn't sleep last night, i'm sure everyone knows what that feels like ;D

umm, why does the current need regulating? (i'm sure it has something to do with heat)
 
It eliminates most of the fluctuation and provides a steadier source, aswell as keeps it from going too high.
 
crocie said:
oh, i just read that again. I literally didn't sleep last night, i'm sure everyone knows what that feels like ;D

umm, why does the current need regulating? (i'm sure it has something to do with heat)
Click to expand...
Because if you give the diode to much current it will die.
 
i heard (cant remember where) that if you give it a constant current, the diode heats up and somehow draws more current?
*hopes im not completly wrong*
 
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