broken tail cap on Spyder I Pro?

[ixfd64]

I have a Wicked Lasers "Spyder I Pro" that has worked perfectly for the last nine months. However, it recently started failing to turn on. This happens about 40% of the time, and slightly twisting the tail cap usually solves the problem, but it's still pretty annoying.

At first, I thought something was wrong with the tail cap switch, but my multimeter shows that the switch is working properly. I also cleaned the threads and the battery contacts, but the problem persists. Does anyone know what could be the cause?

I don't think it's a serious problem because the laser acts normal once it powers on, but nevertheless, I'd like to know why it's acting up in the first place.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Prototype]

Re: Dirty contact points? Or something more sinister?

I would check the spring, it may be bent to the side. Other than that I'm not sure. Hope it helps.

 

[ixfd64]

Re: Dirty contact points? Or something more sinister?

Yeah, I've already checked the spring. It looks pretty straight.

 

[ixfd64]

Re: Dirty contact points? Or something more sinister?

Unfortunately, things have taken a turn for the worst. Now my laser won't turn on at all. However, I have discovered the cause: it seems that the problem was indeed with the tail cap switch. I am still able to turn on the laser by connecting the positive end of the battery with the external thread, but does anyone know how to fix the tail cap, or get a new one?

I'll ask Wicked and see if they have a solution.

 

[kevinmassey]

I doubt you'll be able to get any info from wicked for a few weeks atleast because of the arctic craze, but after that I bet they'll send you one.

 

[rangedunits]

I dunno but you can try to put some aluminium paper in a ball shape at the end, maybe there will be enough contacts.

 

[RA_pierce]

Perhaps the problem is the switch or the safety pin.

The tail-cap on my Evo Pro sucks. I have to adjust the safety pin to get it to work right.

 

[rangedunits]

Perhaps the problem is the switch or the safety pin.

The tail-cap on my Evo Pro sucks. I have to adjust the safety pin to get it to work right.

I think mine broke on first day... the black plastic wasnt glued enough on the metal pin.

 

[lasersbee]

Perhaps the problem is the switch or the safety pin.

The tail-cap on my Evo Pro sucks. I have to adjust the safety pin to get it to work right.

Yeah... my Spyder I Prop has the same problem but it is due to
the safety Interlock pin.. some times I need to twist it to have
the internal switch make contact..

Jerry

 

[rangedunits]

Yeah... my Spyder I Prop has the same problem but it is due to
the safety Interlock pin.. some times I need to twist it to have
the internal switch make contact..

Jerry

Is Steve got aware of the problem?

 

[lasersbee]

Yeah... I'm sure he is aware...
The Free Lasers we got for review were surely not
the production models...
The Review Lasers didn't even have safety stickers...
So I'm not complaining about a faulty switch...

Jerry

 

[RA_pierce]

Yeah... I'm sure he is aware...
The Free Lasers we got for review were surely not
the production models...
The Review Lasers didn't even have safety stickers...
So I'm not complaining about a faulty switch...

Jerry

Mine wasn't a review unit.
Tightening the interlock mechanism gave me better results.
Look here:
Mini Lock

 

[lasersbee]

Thanks... I'll try that...

Jerry

 

[MarioMaster]

My Spyder I also has problems with the minilock, if inserted fully the laser will not work, you have to twist it a bit so it pulls out slightly and then the laser works.

When it first arrived I thought it was dead...

 

[ixfd64]

Good news! Wicked said it would send me a new tail cap in the next few days, so everything's all good. Thanks, Steve!

I dunno but you can try to put some aluminium paper in a ball shape at the end, maybe there will be enough contacts.

Unfortunately, I don't think that's going to work. The switch is on the tail cap, in which case I would be unable to turnoff the laser (completing the circuit would mean bypassing the switch).

I've attached a schematic to show what's wrong.