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FrozenGate by Avery

Blue laser 74W NUBM35 Portabl?

It is possible to place the diode with the drivers and radiators in one body, and the batteries are separate. That is, I will connect it only with bushings. Example of a drill with a separate portable power supply.
 





Not all 3 element lenses are the same, they can sometimes vary in efficiency, however they usually do 5.2W @ 4.5A and 5.5W @ 5.2A with an 08, 0A, 44V2, 0E

However usually an NUBM08, NUBM0A, NUBM44-V2, NUBM0E @ 5.2A will produce 5.5W through a 3 element and 7.6W @ 5.2A through a G2

If your meter reads 7.7 when it should read 5.5 then it ( your meter ) is reading 40% too high.
 
Yes, it counts higher. That's exactly what I wrote. But the good thing is that I know by how much and can get an idea of what the real power is more or less. I just measure with a 3 Element lens and it compensates for those 40% deviations and it's like I put on a G2 lens. I hope you understand that it got a bit confusing 😀
 
In theory yes, but is the deviation the same percentage at lover powers, also I thought there was a rate of change factor as well as a heat dissipation coefficient, how well your meters sensor/housing dissipates heat determines in part how high it can accurately read.......but for a rough measurement sure, or for making a comparison.
 
I decided to collect everything in a PVC box. I will buy a plastic board with a thickness of at least 5mm or 10mm and assemble a box with the dimensions I want. I will draw everything in advance.
 
Why go to all that trouble and not install a concave expanding lens followed by a zooming convex focusing lens, I built a tester and it makes a big difference, granted the useful burning range ( for safe entertainment purposes ) is limited by the beam quality and factory alignment issues, but why not finish the job ?
 
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If you have a link to a store for these 2 lenses I would love to see them.
 
I have a bunch of scavenged optics so I just did a little bit of try and see, so I don't have a ready parts list, but if I were going to buy something then maybe try a selection of optical quality glass preferably AR coated of various focal lengths ........

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Thank you so much. I'll look into them. I want to assemble the laser first and then I will start experimenting. I saw on Aliexpress an aluminum box. I think it will fit everything inside without problems. By all means, two drivers and three heatsinks, as the one on the laser array will be made of copper and will be the largest. Battery power will be separate

1PC Waterproof Aluminum Box Circuit Board Project Electronic Junction Box Black Silver Data Board PCB Instrument Project Case

1Pc Electronic Plastic Box Project Box For Outdoor Waterproof Wire Junction Boxes Enclosure Instrument Case DIY Electronic Case
 
You have to watch out for start up spikes, but as that dc to dc converters top end is 60V it might just work even if it spikes a little on your 14 diode array, if you know someone with an oscilloscope they could test it.....also the blue laser diodes are a lot more resilient today.....you might could get away with using it.
 
@RedCowboy
I know from reliable information that this driver works for a long time with laser diodes and there are no problems. It's stable. I'll check the voltage and amperage it's set to in advance. The question is with it, how many batteries will I need for stable operation. I'm thinking of doing it the same way again, that is, I'll use two drivers for every 7 diodes. Thus, the load on the drivers will be much smaller. I think 15x18650 will do just fine. Both drivers will work simultaneously connected to 15 batteries. What do you think?
 
You set the voltage limit and the current limit with the 2 blue pots.

If you drive all 14 diodes on 1 driver it may not be able to do more than about 3A or so because you will need 64V for the 17 diodes to take 3.5A and that driver may not be able to do it, but it will likely do about 3A

Now you could use 2 drivers, one for each string of 7 and if you want 3 - 5A I would use 6 x 18650 cells for each driver because it's a boost only and your input voltage must be at least 2V less than the output however you need as many cells as you can use to have a good runtime, you could get by with 4 cells for each driver but they will be working hard and recharging more often.

You could use a 4S hobby pack for each driver, but heat sink the drivers.
 
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Yes thank you very much. I have made a purchase of 2 drivers/amplifiers. I will definitely do a test with them when they arrive. Yes, I know that the output voltage and amperage are adjustable. I will use at least 6 18650 batteries to make them last longer. Something you said earlier, I will pay attention to what current the drivers put out at initial start. I hope there is no difference.
 
Remember it's a boost driver so your input voltage must be at least 2V less than the output voltage of 4.5v x 7 = 31.5v so 8 batteries in series would be too many, 6 is the right number, now you could parallel two sets of 6 or 4 in series, but that would get bulky, a 6 cell pack in series for each driver and it's string of 7 diodes should work provided the driver doesn't spike at start up.
 
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