Ricker
0
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2015
- Messages
- 721
- Points
- 93
They probably blow the misaligned diode and blame the user for going over the duty cycle.Lining it up might be more difficult this way. You probably don't get any do overs.
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They probably blow the misaligned diode and blame the user for going over the duty cycle.Lining it up might be more difficult this way. You probably don't get any do overs.
I've yet to see a true 15W blue pointer.Has anyone gotten the double blue with both diodes in working order? I'd love to the see the far field overlap and how close they managed to get it
Got any links?You can get them from China directly for a lot less money. Tinker is mostly just reselling Chinese laser stuff.
I'd have to search again but they were on AliExpress a while back.Got any links?
It's cheaper on this website: https://shadowlasers.com/products/bh9-450nm-blue-laser-pointerGot any links?
First time seeing this for me..Alright, the moment you've all been waiting for is finally here!
I had a few minutes tonight to tear this thing down. After trying better batteries on the blue pointer I still wasn't getting any better output so I chose that one to disassemble. I first disconnected the diode leads from the driver and tested each diode separately. As I suspected, one diode worked and the other didn't. Not even a glimpse of blue emitting and the power supply showed no current when connected so it was a wide open circuit. I'm guessing the Chinese didn't even bother to test this one after it was assembled.
I first heated up the top cap of the pointer at 600 degrees F with my trusty heat gun. I was able to break it free from the Chinese laser pointer glue and unscrew it fairly easily with a silicone rubber jar opening grip. The final optics assembly came out very easily and I was surprised by how much Chinese laser pointer lube was inside just millimeters from the lens. I cleaned up the globs and went to work on the rest of it. I heated the crap out of it at 600 degrees and it just wouldn't budge. I finally cranked it up to 800 degrees F and finally broke it free using 2 pairs of Channellocks. That piece is marred pretty good but it'll buff out after I throw it on my lathe.
It looked like the diode module assembly was also glued in but the immense heat allowed it to just be pushed out easily from the other end. There was a little bit of thermal paste on it that I wiped clean. I then removed the 2 tiny little Philips screws and popped the top off the module.
There are two "G-Ball" diodes in the module so they are definitely not NUBM44 diodes as previously stated. I was told they are NUBM0F diodes and that makes sense because they do have close to 7 watts output which rules out a NUBM08 or similar diode. I may replace one or two of the diodes with NUBM0Gs and see how that works out. A mixed color output might be neat but who knows.
Here's the album of all the photos I took: https://ibb.co/album/8YFjSy
There's a lot of issues with Tinker right now... might be wise to avoid them.I wonder why the blue 445s have the diode issues and the green 525s don’t so much. Just send Tinker an offer on one. They’re willing to work with you on price.
What lasermeter are your getting 17W on the so-called 15W Blue demon unit??Got my replacement demon and it works correctly. Meter shows 17W at first and I don't care to keep that much power on the sensor for more than a second, even focused to as wide as I can while still fitting on the sensor.