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FrozenGate by Avery

"Blue Demon" & "Green Demon" now available - 15W Blue & 4W Green Handhelds






I really can’t imagine that there would be anything else than a PBS + rotator or even just knife edging inside.
Maybe a custom glass block with mirror and PBS. That allows both diodes to be beside each other and makes it smaller. But I highly doubt it.

But I guess you never know.
I hope shmackitup gets us some nice pictures.
 
Yes! I was literally about to bump this thread to ask if you had got them in yet. I'm very excited to see what's inside.

Could you set one of these next to a known laser like a Valkyrie or pen laser so we can see the size of these things. I've never had anything that uses 32650's.
 
Gryphon said:
Yes! I was literally about to bump this thread to ask if you had got them in yet. I'm very excited to see what's inside.

Could you set one of these next to a known laser like a Valkyrie or pen laser so we can see the size of these things. I've never had anything that uses 32650's.
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The batteries are huge!!!! Pretty sure that's the size used in the Tesla battery packs. I can compare it next to one of my own laser pointers. I can say that the spot at around 10 feet is better collimated than that of a NUBM44 or other similar diode. That's about the extent of the testing I've done so far.
 
geforceRTX said:
@Shmackitup How far along are you with disassembling the 15W blue demon?
I am very interested and curious to see how it was built and assembled.
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I haven't gotten very far yet because it doesn't simply come apart. The top end is either pressed together or has that famous Chinese Laser Pointer Glue inside.

They both have very similar drivers but they have a couple different markings and obviously different output currents. They have Low, High and Strobe modes as well.

The Green pointer hit 2.8 watts which isn't terrible but the Blue only hit around 6.5 watts which is pathetic for a dual diode setup. I'm thinking there might be something wrong with it.

Also, these are the most dangerous laser pointers I've ever had. A quick press of the momentary side switch turns them on so they can be activated way too easily. I will probably install a primary clicky switch in the tail-cap to improve the safety of these. I could never sell them in this configuration and still sleep at night.

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geforceRTX said:
Even when I disassembled what I posted, I thought it was glued, then as a last resort I used pliers in a vain attempt to unscrew it and as if by magic it did, are you sure there is Chinese glue for pointers? have you tried unscrewing it? the driver is huge, it also has 2 circles with double copper wire rolled and insulated with a sheath? anyway for the measurements, if those are the real powers, Should they have exceeded 4W for green and 15W for blue if even by a little and for a few seconds, the batteries were 100% charged? have you tried with branded batteries? what do you have Efest ? Panasonic? Samsung?

[ Your LaserBee Power Meter is old model ? capable only until 10W ]
Keep them for yourself don't sell them until you know if it's a scam or not.
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I certainly tried to unscrew them but I don't want to mark them up with any tools. I'll probably sell them off once I'm done with them so I don't want any scratches on them. The Chinese love to glue laser pointers together.

The driver has 2 induction coils because it outputs to 2 diodes separately. It's basically 2 drivers in 1. The batteries could certainly be the issue and they could be holding back the output but I need to investigate that further.

The LPM is brand new. It's a custom piece by LaserBee and I just recently got it. It's rated for up to 10 watts but the sensor should be able to take the extra heat without any issues. It may not read 100% accurately over 10 watts but I'm not even getting close to that yet with the blue pointer.
 
geforceRTX said:
Exactly, then excluding the LaserBee, I also exclude the batteries, in my opinion, even more so since it resists the extras, especially with the 4W it should have marked them, ditto the 15W, this demon hides some rip-offs.
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The specs the Chinese use are historically exaggerated so I'm not all that surprised by the lower numbers. I can go get a 1 million lumens flashlight for like $5 and it would be lucky to actually output 100 lumens.
 
I've got some really nice high drain 18650 batteries. I'm just going to 3D print a couple battery adapters and see if it improves the output power on the blue pointer.

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geforceRTX said:
High consumption 18650 batteries? would they be?
I've never heard of anything like that, can you explain it to me?
3D printing applied to the world of lasers? works? I know 3D printing from hearsay, but I honestly don't know how to use something like this. What do you do with a 3D printer?

However, I managed to save the photo where the power released during the laser power meter test is visible and it shows 14.942
Their LPM is called HWLPM-20W. I'll attach the photo to you.
So going back to yesterday's discussion, the problem is that your LPM is calibrated for 10W, that's why it doesn't read more than almost 7W, while for the 4W test, there is some deception underneath, the 4W is a 10W LPM. should read easily. Are there green laser diodes greater than 1W? if the answer is no, then in the Green Demon there are 2 diodes of 1W each more or less.
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sure, you can get green above 1W..but you will lose some in the beam-combining optics.
The channels I talked with in China refer to them (green) as 1.65W x2 but these dual diode handhelds are still pretty new.
The feedback I got from a week or two ago.
Many sellers circumvent the wording of laser pointers and will refer to it as "torch".
Atm we have the single NUGM06 torch with 1.65W in stock.
The 2x NUGM06 3.2W modules we have available in good amounts, but not the torch, after lunar new year we can also sell the torch at discounted prices.
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Alright, the moment you've all been waiting for is finally here! ;)

I had a few minutes tonight to tear this thing down. After trying better batteries on the blue pointer I still wasn't getting any better output so I chose that one to disassemble. I first disconnected the diode leads from the driver and tested each diode separately. As I suspected, one diode worked and the other didn't. Not even a glimpse of blue emitting and the power supply showed no current when connected so it was a wide open circuit. I'm guessing the Chinese didn't even bother to test this one after it was assembled.

I first heated up the top cap of the pointer at 600 degrees F with my trusty heat gun. I was able to break it free from the Chinese laser pointer glue and unscrew it fairly easily with a silicone rubber jar opening grip. The final optics assembly came out very easily and I was surprised by how much Chinese laser pointer lube was inside just millimeters from the lens. I cleaned up the globs and went to work on the rest of it. I heated the crap out of it at 600 degrees and it just wouldn't budge. I finally cranked it up to 800 degrees F and finally broke it free using 2 pairs of Channellocks. That piece is marred pretty good but it'll buff out after I throw it on my lathe.

It looked like the diode module assembly was also glued in but the immense heat allowed it to just be pushed out easily from the other end. There was a little bit of thermal paste on it that I wiped clean. I then removed the 2 tiny little Philips screws and popped the top off the module.

There are two "G-Ball" diodes in the module so they are definitely not NUBM44 diodes as previously stated. I was told they are NUBM0F diodes and that makes sense because they do have close to 7 watts output which rules out a NUBM08 or similar diode. I may replace one or two of the diodes with NUBM0Gs and see how that works out. A mixed color output might be neat but who knows.

Here's the album of all the photos I took: https://ibb.co/album/8YFjSy

 
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