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FrozenGate by Avery

Analog control for RGB ?

paulkruger

paulkruger

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Good day all.

Started playing with a new W800 RGB module. This is the same modules being sold on eBay etc.

I got it from the factory but they don't really have much in the way of documentation regarding the use of the analog input terminals. Max volts is 5 I believe.

I did a quick and dirty with pot as voltage divider but it is just that, dirty. Not very stable or reliable means to control the brightness.

Eventually will go to building a cpu driven light show but for now want a means to dial in the colors by way of a pot for each diode.

The question is:

Has anyone used one of these modules ( GRB/Analog ) and made a control to plug into the jacks on the driver board that allows fine tuning of the output color of the beam? Many of the circuits I find involve a complete PWM modulated driver board. Drivers are there already. I assume all I need do is provide the proper analog signal to the pins of each color's terminal.

All suggestions welcome but if someone has nailed this, I prefer to not re-invent the wheel.

Look forward to hearing from anyone with some ideas for me.

Thanks.

( Image is W500 but other than power is mostly identical to the W800 I have )
 

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wish I could help you more but...MOST just get or build a PJ and use software to control how much of each color you are getting- that is easy with Quick Show-- IF you put 5 vdc to the modualtion wires the laser SHOULD run at full power- if it ran w/o any power to these wires --in most cases i wold say you were sold TTL blanking and not analog-


which happens ALL the time with PJs from China- the title will say FULL COLOR when in fact its 7 colors ONLY-- IF you see analog in the specs then you are very likely getting analog if nothing about the modulation is in the specs that is a red flag--& ttl only MOST of the time-- If the laser works with NOTHING at these wires it is very likely ttl- as analog will not work in 'most' labbies unless its ttl or has 5 vdc going into the driver.

hk

edit update

checked out you projects VERY nice-


+5 for that---


here is something you can add to the free FSM part-
inside EVERY poliroid one- step is a keystone FSM thin and with practice not hard to cut into smaller sizes --

The trick?

stop your scratch close to the edge BUT not past that as you will very likely chip the edge and the scratch to the very edge is NOT needed for a good clean break-- there are also some nice FSMs in the Kasio PKJs we buy for the 445 diodes .... as well as some good dichro mirrors too--

--also there is a nice 3vdc motor

I have opened and taken the batteries and plastic gears from hundreds of one-use cameras never seeing any FSMs in there- lol

Now these cameras are harder to come by for free-


your headphone laser projector brought back my oldest laser memories

we used a 3 mW red HeNe and a regular mirror glued to a single midrange speaker= placed on the floor and hitting the ceiling in total darkness- after 20 or 30 minutes the efx is even better-(pupils dialated) we all grabbed pillows and laid on the floor which made watching easier- after that, every time a new Beatles or Moody Blues album came out we would watch it (several times in a row)with our red 'bouncer' -- Pink Flloyd was another good reason to do an all nighter--(enhanced of course)


looks like you are on the right track for controlling how much laser you are getting from each color-- good luck!!

Len
 
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I recently bought one of those "analog" variants of those RGB modules. The analog control sucks and I wouldn't bother paying a premium for it. For one, only the green channel has a decent response. The other lasers threshold to high brightness too rapidly to be useful for real analog control, and they wash out the green to the extent that the gamut is effectively small. You might as well just use a TTL-based module unless you want to make your own drivers and stuff (which I might attempt).
 
I buy direct from the factory that actually makes them. I am working on a wholesale site to sell those once they get their FDA paperwork in order.

It is technically illegal to sell them in the US but as long as they are sold direct to end user by a Chinese source the most the US can do is seize them in Customs when they find them. I am working with them to get FDA certification. The process is really not that hard or costly.

That said I don't pay any more for analog vs. ttl. Same price. I have not had the time to mess with it for the past few days. Will update when I have more time.

I also bought some other module samples to toy with. Got some spares and may offer those here, but on a personal basis not through my company just yet.

CLICK Laser modules and laser light shows
 
Many months since post and silence...?

Anyone read this or no one has any answers?

Christmas is closing in and would like to have a working light show.
 
Re: Analog drivers. FlexMod 3 would seem to fit the bill, however I am now wondering where to get one?

I placed an order with innolasers.com but I may be filing a fraud report. I posted a topic on that issue.

Just saying. they have my money, no indication if or when it will arrive as they never answer emails and now the email I placed the order with is not in their system so I cannot even log in to trace the order on their ticket system.

BEWARE INNOLASERS.COM
 
well...
I am wondering if this is just spam--
that would explain it being ignored IMO
I know most dont like double posts even if this thread has been ignored--

and most here know of Dr Lava and that he sometimes gets behind- hang in there its not fruad just one busy webstore owner with lots on his plate- request a refund before you get cray cray...

hak

we dont need any new trolls here btw
 
hakzaw1 said:
well...
I am wondering if this is just spam--
that would explain it being ignored IMO
I know most dont like double posts even if this thread has been ignored--

and most here know of Dr Lava and that he sometimes gets behind- hang in there its not fruad just one busy webstore owner with lots on his plate- request a refund before you get cray cray...

hak

we dont need any new trolls here btw
Click to expand...

Not a troll...Smurf :drool:

And "getting behind" does not explain my email vanishing from their system when I try to log in to check status.

I have been in business for many years. You don't take someone's money for a product then ignore them for two weeks. If you are going to have a delay you tell the customer, you don't ignore them.

PK
 
paulkruger said:
Good day all.

Started playing with a new W800 RGB module. This is the same modules being sold on eBay etc.

I got it from the factory but they don't really have much in the way of documentation regarding the use of the analog input terminals. Max volts is 5 I believe.


I think you are very confused-- .'same as sold on ebay 'WTW'?? give a link to what you mean-
You have it working right? ;--0

then it is TTL only and there are three places(R,G &B COLORED) on the PBC driver to plug in the modulation from your show card & yeah you need one of those) THAT will give you 7 colors NO blending is possible-- OTHER THAN THE 7 COLORS r,g, b, y, magenta and teal (or aqua) --WHITE MAKES 7--
the only way you get analog (& ttl) is by changing that driver board for an analog one THEN it will not lase until you power the modulation- so using P3 flexmods you need THREE of them
you are many miles from building a projector--





I did a quick and dirty with pot as voltage divider but it is just that, dirty. Not very stable or reliable means to control the brightness.

what do you mean?? that is NOT how you control a lab laser (in most cases those pots are not made to stand a lot of turning and messing with them voids most warranties aslo

Eventually will go to building a cpu driven light show but for now want a means to dial in the colors by way of a pot for each diode.

WTW?? cant really be done

The question is:

Has anyone used one of these modules ( GRB/Analog )

your is NOT analog remember??)



and made a control to plug into the jacks on the driver board that allows fine tuning of the output color of the beam?


'tuning the output COLOR?? more confusion
Many of the circuits I find involve a complete PWM modulated driver board. Drivers are there already. I assume all I need do is provide the proper analog signal to the pins of each color's terminal.

WRONG

All suggestions welcome but if someone has nailed this, I prefer to not re-invent the wheel.

GOOD LUCK WITH THAT

Look forward to hearing from anyone with some ideas for me.

Thanks.

( Image is W500 but other than power is mostly identical to the W800 I have )
Click to expand...


HOW DID YOU GET A rgb WITHOUT KNOWING IF ITS ONLY ttl OR ANALOG- THAT MAKES ZERO SENSE
 
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hakzaw1 said:
HOW DID YOU GET A rgb WITHOUT KNOWING IF ITS ONLY ttl OR ANALOG- THAT MAKES ZERO SENSE
Click to expand...
I guess you are not paying attention.

I stated at the outset of this that it IS analog. That was not a question on my part. I bought from factory direct and they offer both analog and ttl versions. I bought the analog.
 
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well unless they sent a poor excuse for full color OR you are not going about modulating correctly I dont see you getting much help-- to control each color-- I use laser soft ware- & its very easy-- so the RGB module you have needs to be plugged into the show card which has ILDA in (at the very least) which connects to your PC and soft --after that you can make most any color you want ..

some feel that DPSS 532s just do not modulate as well as diodes for full color--

I have found that RGB modules like yours are excellent for Lumia and Spiro projects -- BUT for a full color (or 7 color)projectors ==not so much-

what are your plans once you figure out how to control the colors??
anything less tha a real PJ with soft seems pointless

but a 800mW RGB LUMIA would be a great idea--and VERY simple too.
the LUMIA glass in most cases will work like a diffraction grating -- you will see some white laser but a lot of RG & B--

I saw one at SELEM using a 3000mW RGB-- awesome efx

(TY desli-jon)

hk
 
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