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FrozenGate by Avery

AixiZ module details

I have been thinking about that for quite some time too... I wanted to get one of the 635 and one of the 645 and I have some 650 and 660... that should be a nice range of red :D

--DDL
 





Those small ones are short and small making them adaptable with various "fittings" which take the heat. Try not to solder these when the diode is mounted. I've also had good beam quality with them and no melting of the lens.

THe larger modules work good when converting a dead greenie pointer because the length and size lets you glue a switch board on the back.

Mike
 
Hey Mike.

Look at the lower sliding scale connected to the Calipers moving leg. The reading is taken off the first zero to give a mm reading, the other numbers from 1-0 are for fractions of a mm. the reading on the outside of the Module shows 8mm, however it could almost be 7.9 mm because the line over the number 9 is almost lined up with the mm scale above it.

Hope that made sense.

Jase
 
Jase --
I was just joking about the old "armstrong" calipers !!! I have a couple vernier types myself.

Mike
 
Daedal said:
HAHA... I'm waiting on one in the mail... and I'll update the photos with he digital readings once it comes in.

Glad you liked the pictures Gazoo :D

--DDL
Click to expand...

Well I ordered 5 of the little brass ones. Looks like they are the best ones to get for most applications.
 
Agreed... I am currently working on making a nice little body to make one labby-style laser with one of the diodes I am getting from the SenKat group buy. After looking at the requirements and the ability to run these things CW at some decent power with sufficient cooling, I liked the figures and will post a thread soon on what I come up with. :)

Also... I got my digital caliper and completely forgot about updating the pictures, glad you revived this thread. I'll update them tomorrow I hope.

--DDL
 
deadal you should post pictures of the normal chrome module too. tear it all down and let us see it.
 
I know about Mikes' dowel trick to remove the diode, but does anyone know how to remove the diodes without destroying them?? The ones I have are VERY tightly press fit or epoxied in place.
 
Well, if your really adventurous. You could probably stick a few very small pins or somehting of that size beside the head of the can and hammer ever so slowly to push it out backwards. in the pictures above you can see that there is a very small amount of room around the can on the inside you can put your point on.
 
Thank for posting these up Kenom... It is honestly a very incomplete thread since it doesn't have the other module... I'll update things shortly.

--DDL
 
SteveT --

If the dowel doesn't work, I have a 10 penny nail (BIG) which I turned down to fit the top shoulder of the LD. I put this in my drill press and use it as an arbor press. I lose very few.

Mike
 
I use a clamp kind of thing with a Torx screw... I think I use a T22 or T20 and push the diode out very slowly. Pulled out about 10+ of them and lost none, thankfully. My belief is that if you personally control the pressure... you'll screw it up... use something that you can precisely control and you'll be happy with the results. Benchpresses, clamps, miter saws, laser guides... ets are my favorite kinds of tools... Accuracy that eliminates the human error factor ;)

--DDL
 
Daedal said:
Agreed... I am currently working on making a nice little body to make one labby-style laser with one of the diodes I am getting from the SenKat group buy. After looking at the requirements and the ability to run these things CW at some decent power with sufficient cooling, I liked the figures and will post a thread soon on what I come up with. :)

Also... I got my digital caliper and completely forgot about updating the pictures, glad you revived this thread. I'll update them tomorrow I hope.

--DDL
Click to expand...

I got mine today and good grief these things are small...lol. But man am I impressed. Even the diode that comes with it produces a nice bright red dot.

Well here is what I did. I ordered 5 and at the price I wasn't concerned about saving the diode, so I knocked it out...yup destroyed it. I have two brand new diodes I received from heruursciences. I mounted one of those diodes to the module with my vice. The only thing I had small enough to press it in with was a cable end. The part that crimps to the center of cable coax is what I used to press the diode into the module. It went in super tight and I did not use any thermal grease.

Next I found a jack from one of my broken down DVD-Roms and plugged the diode into it. It will fit snug, but I did spread the leads of the diode just a little bit to make it plug in as snug as I could. This is much easier than soldering wires to the diode. And of course it makes it easier to swap out the diode when/if the diode turns into an LED..ha..ha.

Finally I hooked up my capacitor and a 5 ohm resistor to a three cell battery pack. I tested the current the diode is drawing, around 175ma. But the most amazing part is the lens in these little guys! I was able to light a gray headed match almost instantly. And it lights a safety match instantly. Both were Non sharpied!! Since the current draw of the diode is only 175ma, it is putting out less than 100mw. I will admit this was less than a foot away, and I still have some more experimenting to do. But the bottom line is for the price, these little modules can't be beat. Imagine how well the diodes we have coming in the group buy will work with these modules.. ;D

Here is what I am finding with lenses. I have a diode I took out of a 16X Benq Lightscribe drive mounted in a Meredith module with a glass lens. When I focus it for distance, it is also focused for burning up close. This does not seem to apply to some of the other lenses I have played with including the one in the Aixiz module. With the Aixiz, if focused for burning, it will not be focused for distance, and visa versa. I hope that makes sense. BUT, these lenses when focused for burning are some kind of powerful.

Anyway, I when it gets dark I will compare the beams between the Meredith module and the Aixiz module. Now I am really getting curious :)

Edited: The resistor I am using is 5 ohms. Actually I have two 10 ohm resistors connected in parallel..Duh!

BTW, I can already tell the beam is going to be brighter than the beam coming from my Merideth module. But it will also be smaller in diameter.
 
Gazoo --
Like I been saying --- Greenies are for show, Reds are for burning. -- Wellll, I yield to the Herc !!!!

Mike
 
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