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Concerning the possibility of a design in which corrective optics could " Modularized " and attached to the front of a typical Hand Held....as proposed by BShan... Please see this link http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/445ld-anamorphic-prisms-jayrob-diy-52334.html
Where to start about this !!! First....Do we really have an interest ????????????? From MANY members ??????
It can be done....this is for sure !!! I suppose it ALL depends on how EASY it is to do ...and what does it cost ???
First let me state that the ONLY solution for the Red P-73 with corrective optics ... in a Hand Held ...is the " Dragon's Head " design. There may be another design...but, I have not seen it. The P-73 requires Cylinderical lenses for beam correction.... and is just TOO demanding for a simple add-on approach !!!!!!
OK....BUT...that leaves correcting the new Green ( Which we MIGHT want )or the 445's....new or previous !!!
Fortunately...this can be accomplished with just a pair of Anamorphic Prisms !!! No Cylinderical Lenses needed !!! Good thing to ... as the use of Cylinderical lenses is much more demanding !!!!!! See http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/now-completed-optically-corrected-p73-hh-design-87235.html
The deal with the prisms is that we only need to be concerned about the radial alignment !!! The beam MUST hit the first prism...at a specific radial alignment. The Anamorphic prism's are not like a collimation lens...which can be rotated at many orientations !! ... and only need be focused to infinity....or for close-up applications.
Again, the Anamorphic prism's MUST be in the correct radial position. The question is...what do we have to work with....for the majority of all Hand Helds ????? Well...typically...we have the M9 x 0.5 threaded barrel of the Collimation Lens...extending out from the heat sink unit. This IS a universal condition !!
How do we build off of this for ANY Hand Held unit ???? WELL...Let's use the concept of the link above...a simple box like construct ....which captures and clamps the prisms. In this very early design...the distance of the back-side opening was sized....so that a slip fit was realized...where the box geometry delivered a friction fit...over the barrel of the O-like Collimation lens. This barrel was NOT threaded....but smooth. A small set screw was then used to secure the Box/Module to the lens.
Most collimation lenses are threaded....so let's use this !!! Add a back plate to the box....with a 9.5mm threaded bore. Then, screw the Box/Module with prism's ...on to the collimation lens barrel. Then...use a small 4-40 Allen head set screw to lock the box in place.....when the correct radial position is achieved !!
I would also add a set screw to the heat sink/unit body...to lock the collimation lens in position. I would also suggest that a very small rubber washer be placed between the prism top and the bolt-on clamping plate/top. I have cracked a few prism's with too much clamping force !!!!
As far as the correct positioning of the Anamorphic prism's within the Box/Module. There is an optimal position called " Zoof's Angle" This is known art. See post below.
The take-away is....is this something people are interested in ??????????? It is as easy as...Set the focus, Lock the Collimation lens in position, Screw the box/module Anamorphic set unit on to the collimation lens barrel, Adjust it so the correct radial position is acheived, Screw down the locking set screw....an there ya'go !!! " Optical correction ---- ToGo "
BTW... the use of the Anamorphic prism's ... for the 9mm 445's and for the new green WILL improve the Farfield down beam geometry !!! I predict it would change the beam spot...from a 23mm wide bar at 25'...to a 14mm round cornered rectangle at 45'...is it worth it ??????
What is your opinion ???? Desireable....Not necessary, How much $$$ ??? Over-the-Top ????
Lite'em Up CDBEAM=======>:san::san::san:
Where to start about this !!! First....Do we really have an interest ????????????? From MANY members ??????
It can be done....this is for sure !!! I suppose it ALL depends on how EASY it is to do ...and what does it cost ???
First let me state that the ONLY solution for the Red P-73 with corrective optics ... in a Hand Held ...is the " Dragon's Head " design. There may be another design...but, I have not seen it. The P-73 requires Cylinderical lenses for beam correction.... and is just TOO demanding for a simple add-on approach !!!!!!
OK....BUT...that leaves correcting the new Green ( Which we MIGHT want )or the 445's....new or previous !!!
Fortunately...this can be accomplished with just a pair of Anamorphic Prisms !!! No Cylinderical Lenses needed !!! Good thing to ... as the use of Cylinderical lenses is much more demanding !!!!!! See http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/now-completed-optically-corrected-p73-hh-design-87235.html
The deal with the prisms is that we only need to be concerned about the radial alignment !!! The beam MUST hit the first prism...at a specific radial alignment. The Anamorphic prism's are not like a collimation lens...which can be rotated at many orientations !! ... and only need be focused to infinity....or for close-up applications.
Again, the Anamorphic prism's MUST be in the correct radial position. The question is...what do we have to work with....for the majority of all Hand Helds ????? Well...typically...we have the M9 x 0.5 threaded barrel of the Collimation Lens...extending out from the heat sink unit. This IS a universal condition !!
How do we build off of this for ANY Hand Held unit ???? WELL...Let's use the concept of the link above...a simple box like construct ....which captures and clamps the prisms. In this very early design...the distance of the back-side opening was sized....so that a slip fit was realized...where the box geometry delivered a friction fit...over the barrel of the O-like Collimation lens. This barrel was NOT threaded....but smooth. A small set screw was then used to secure the Box/Module to the lens.
Most collimation lenses are threaded....so let's use this !!! Add a back plate to the box....with a 9.5mm threaded bore. Then, screw the Box/Module with prism's ...on to the collimation lens barrel. Then...use a small 4-40 Allen head set screw to lock the box in place.....when the correct radial position is achieved !!
I would also add a set screw to the heat sink/unit body...to lock the collimation lens in position. I would also suggest that a very small rubber washer be placed between the prism top and the bolt-on clamping plate/top. I have cracked a few prism's with too much clamping force !!!!
As far as the correct positioning of the Anamorphic prism's within the Box/Module. There is an optimal position called " Zoof's Angle" This is known art. See post below.
The take-away is....is this something people are interested in ??????????? It is as easy as...Set the focus, Lock the Collimation lens in position, Screw the box/module Anamorphic set unit on to the collimation lens barrel, Adjust it so the correct radial position is acheived, Screw down the locking set screw....an there ya'go !!! " Optical correction ---- ToGo "
BTW... the use of the Anamorphic prism's ... for the 9mm 445's and for the new green WILL improve the Farfield down beam geometry !!! I predict it would change the beam spot...from a 23mm wide bar at 25'...to a 14mm round cornered rectangle at 45'...is it worth it ??????
What is your opinion ???? Desireable....Not necessary, How much $$$ ??? Over-the-Top ????
Lite'em Up CDBEAM=======>:san::san::san:
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