AaronTs Very First Build - NUBM06 Powered Wand Phaser

[bdgreenb]

Cool I hope this works out well! I love TNG myself. Worf is the MAN. and Patrick Stewart is just awesome in everything hes in. (Gurney Halleck anyone)

Patrick Stewart always kills it. His Gurney was one of the only watchable parts of that beautiful story gone awry.

 

[GSS]

There sure is a corner market but builder's tend to get greedy and hustle the uninformed that don't realize how cheap a laser diode or phaser build in general can be. There is some fab time though but by the time your on your 2nd build you have an idea or two and can learn from mistakes.
You don't see them post sales here for that reason other than Jayrob who puts it all on the line as to what he doe's and basicly charges half of what others do that just throw in a diode and run with it.
Oh yes this topic is getting old "not this thread" and has bean mentioned plenty but I just remembered seeing a sale thread from around 2012 when someone was selling a AA phaser and mentioned he was the only one who found this "secret" to have the laser flashing to the sound setting. All he did was splice into the original LED wiring that did just that.
His "secret" was it was easy and he did nothing.
Member Shadowsix has done a few Klingon Distruptor builds and quite a few more different builds. He sure has a nice signature so try to take a look

 

[AaronT]

There sure is a corner market but builder's tend to get greedy and hustle the uninformed that don't realize how cheap a laser diode or phaser build in general can be. There is some fab time though but by the time your on your 2nd build you have an idea or two and can learn from mistakes.
You don't see them post sales here for that reason other than Jayrob who puts it all on the line as to what he doe's and basicly charges half of what others do that just throw in a diode and run with it.
Oh yes this topic is getting old "not this thread" and has bean mentioned plenty but I just remembered seeing a sale thread from around 2012 when someone was selling a AA phaser and mentioned he was the only one who found this "secret" to have the laser flashing to the sound setting. All he did was splice into the original LED wiring that did just that.
His "secret" was it was easy and he did nothing.
Member Shadowsix has done a few Klingon Distruptor builds and quite a few more different builds. He sure has a nice signature so try to take a look

Well my idea of "exploiting" the market would be doing a detailed build thread and pointing potential buyers to it as a form of advertising.

I have no interest in taking $ for something I can't ship to a customer the next day.

Besides, that is a ways off. I have at least one personal build to do after this and 2 more for close friends before I would build something with the idea of selling it.



Progress Update

I found a cut away diagram.

However Wand does not have an exploded diagram of the Phaser. They warned me it was sonic welded and shouldn't be taken apart. So in short I'm not going to get any factory support for this project.

So now I'm gleaning through startrekprop forums looking for people who have got them apart.

Again, if anyone has run into a detailed "how to" for disassembling the Wand Phaser, please post here or send me an IM. Thanks guys.

 

[BobMc]

Pman, it was on my post. Don't know what happened but when I posted some of our conversion showed up. When I saw it I deleted it, asap. Sorry it was not intentional.

 

[AaronT]

WOOO HOOO SUCCESS!!! I HAVE GOTTEN MY WAND PHASER APART WITHOUT DAMAGING IT!!!

Alright I got it apart.

The first step is to remove the "cooling fins" I used a pair of taped pliers to prevent marring and pulled firmly with just a little wiggle. Be careful to grip it about 2/3 back because the zinc could break just from grip pressure once the unit finally pops off. I used just pliers but channel locks ans vice grips could also work, just keep in mind you risk breaking the fins during removal but better than original replacements do exist.

Next grip the front of the fixed section of the nozzle adjusting ring. Turn it counter clockwise as you pull. This will result in damage to the front portion of the body where the nozzle attaches. There is no way around this damage that I can figure out. However this portion is not visible when assembled and a bit of superglue can get most of those rather small bits back in place.

At this point I popped the metal hood that sits above the IR window off with a screwdriver.

Another tricky part is figuring out how to divide the halves of the P2. This can be done by slipping a razor blade between the halves to cut these studs. Here are the cut studs marked in blue.

I want to give credit to Jon Paul (jonpaultrek2012 on ebay) for giving me the initial tips and pics I was looking for.

Now I need to order a NUBM06 in 12mm module and a Blackbuck M8.

 

[GSS]

Nice to see you started:beer:
Good that you saved the nozzle and rear fins whether you end up using them or not.
So no screws just bonded plastic.
Did Jon Paul personally give you a heads up or did you watch his U tube vid's?
Anyway's can't wait for the next step or finished build

 

[AaronT]

Nice to see you started:beer:
Good that you saved the nozzle and rear fins whether you end up using them or not.
So no screws just bonded plastic.
Did Jon Paul personally give you a heads up or did you watch his U tube vid's?
Anyway's can't wait for the next step or finished build

I contacted him via Ebay and he gave basic tips about removing the fins and nozzle and provided the pics.

I mentioned it was for a project and that he must know how since he offers custom parts.

I refined the process a bit and came up with some more tips that prevented damage. He normally replaces the fins and nozzle so he is a bit bold with his disassembly technique.

 

[AaronT]

I need some recommendations on switches (specifically the ratings I need to look for) that can handle the current from a pair of Panasonic NCR18650B to the Blackbuck M8 driver and to the NUBM06 diode.

It's time for me to order more parts!

 

[AaronT]

I finished the replacement handle/battery pack. The Phaser is now wired for power.

I'm planning on setting up the NUBM06 in 12mm module, Blackbuck M8, the external pot adjustment and the battery pack in a "lab" configuration for testing.

After that it will all get packed into the Wand Phaser.

I'm still trying to figure out a microswitch to tuck into the trigger alongside the existing electrics. That however is my only hangup and I have a temp/cheap solution already, I just want something a bit more elegant than two bare wire ends being pressed together.

It's great timing too, E-Bay is being flooded with NUBM06s at auction and even the buy it now option is only $40. The price on this diode is hitting the floor!

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

Nice housing. I started with a plastic replica and
machined all the laser stuff to fit it. Mine still has the
sound board.
I used a logic level Mosfet as my 2+ amp current
supply (switch) from two 14500 cells in parallel.
HM

Pretty simple build for lower power.

It's still impressive.

 

[GSS]

Can you use one of these http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10093/2189000-kw12-3-125v-5a-micro-limit-open-close-switch-w
The 24mm height is measured from the top of the roller for some reason which the whole metal arm can easily come off if needed, so the actual height of the body is close to 10mm.
Iv'e used these on my Diamond Select and Rubies phasers, so maby its worth a shot?
I can send you couple to play with so you won't have to wait 3 weeks. Its something to play with anyways..

 

[BobMc]

Nice housing. I started with a plastic replica and
machined all the laser stuff to fit it. Mine still has the
sound board.
I used a logic level Mosfet as my 2+ amp current
supply (switch) from two 14500 cells in parallel.
HM

Nice, the Klingon's better watch out now! :gj:

 

[AaronT]

Can you use one of these http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10093/2189000-kw12-3-125v-5a-micro-limit-open-close-switch-w
The 24mm height is measured from the top of the roller for some reason which the whole metal arm can easily come off if needed, so the actual height of the body is close to 10mm.
Iv'e used these on my Diamond Select and Rubies phasers, so maby its worth a shot?
I can send you couple to play with so you won't have to wait 3 weeks. Its something to play with anyways..

Thanks for the offer but I'm only working with a couple mm of room next to the existing guts.

I will probably fab my own direct contact switch out of some thin copper glued to the existing trigger button and the housing on the inside of the Phaser.

Sometimes the simplest solutions are best.

 

[GSS]

Thanks for the offer but I'm only working with a couple mm of room next to the existing guts.

I will probably fab my own direct contact switch out of some thin copper glued to the existing trigger button and the housing on the inside of the Phaser.

Sometimes the simplest solutions are best.

I'm seeing jon lussier u tubes video's and lately he's been pretty generous with showing the insides of his builds.
That Wand Co. unit is sure stuffed and tight inside. I see its got that "chicken bone or propeller" looking thing for a switching gizmo.
I can see now why jon uses that as you say "bare wire to wire" contact thing on this Wand Co. phaser but he does it on all his other brand phaser builds which have alot more room for something better in my opinion:shhh:
Go with your plan and finish this beauty

Aaron, can you post a few more picks of the inners? I just want a better look and not to add anything as you have that all under control

 

[AaronT]

I'll have some detailed pictures next month as I open it back up to wire in the power supply.

NUBM06 diodes are auctioning on Ebay for $26 at the moment and I'm snagging one up.

 

[GSS]

Hemlock-Mike, nice that you added the other pic.
I wouldn't mind seeing if you have a few more to show?? inner's maby?
Are you running a M140?
@Aaron, oh yes grab that 06! and looking at Dtr's testing he's getting 5.8W
with the Gball intact and tiny bit less with the G2:thinking:
Nice choice of diode as the fixed focus deciding you keep Gball intact will make it a heck of alot easier:beer: