565nm From LaserLandAustralia

[Sta]

Which spectrometer do you have, Sta? Just trying to get a handle on how accurate it is.

I'm sure the 565nm looks more yellow next to any green laser from 532nm down to 502nm. I suspect the 575nm one looks orange only when next to the 565nm one. What does it look like alone? I haven't seen the 565nm ones, but people I know have said it is greenish yellow. That sounds about right as my 574nm looks lemon yellow to me.

It’s a $70 Thunder Optics piece of crap, so it’s not too accurate, but it’s good to within 1nm usually. I calibrated it specifically for this range (using 532 and 589 as reference points.)

And 565 is very greenish yellow, it’s surprisingly similar to 561 though.

 

[Skittles]

Can someone link me to a good adapter that I can power the module with? I never had a labby before so I don't have anything to power it with if I buy one.

 

[Sta]

Can someone link me to a good adapter that I can power the module with? I never had a labby before so I don't have anything to power it with if I buy one.

Just put three 18650s in series for the time being

 

[paul1598419]

All you need is a 12 volt wall wart. You can easily observe the polarity of the OPTlaser one as it comes with a two wire connector. Red and black. The red wire is positive and the black is negative. If you have one from the other source, it uses a different driver so I can't say on it.

If you want to make it easy, just cut the plug off the wall wart and wire it to the wire harness that comes with the driver. I'd use shrink tubing and just solder red to red and black to black. Then you can just plug it into the driver and into an outlet.

 

[Skittles]

Just put three 18650s in series for the time being

All you need is a 12 volt wall wart. You can easily observe the polarity of the OPTlaser one as it comes with a two wire connector. Red and black. The red wire is positive and the black is negative. If you have one from the other source, it uses a different driver so I can't say on it.

If you want to make it easy, just cut the plug off the wall wart and wire it to the wire harness that comes with the driver. I'd use shrink tubing and just solder red to red and black to black. Then you can just plug it into the driver and into an outlet.

Alright, thank you guys, I found this on ebay, should work if I want to bring it outside.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1X-Plastic-Battery-Storage-Case-Box-Holder-For-3x18650-3-7V-With-Wire-Leads/112643686657?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52569%26meid%3D011abf7242784a1ca9f7e1d4f7d34fba%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D182766178347%26itm%3D112643686657&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

[paul1598419]

Yeah, that should work if you want to use three 18650s. Otherwise, use a 12 volt plug in power source that will put out at least 600 mA.

 

[Skittles]

Yeah, that should work if you want to use three 18650s. Otherwise, use a 12 volt plug in power source that will put out at least 600 mA.

I have a bunch of adapters I can cut, but I will probably be using the battery pack the most.

 

[paul1598419]

Really? I wouldn't be taking it around with me. It is in a lab host and you want to keep debris out of it. Mine runs fine for as longs as I leave it running with the added heat sinks on the driver.

 

[kecked]

I agree. I was into graphics for a long time but got bored. Lumia is a whole new subject to explore. And now the spectroscopy. What I hate the most is mismatched beams with red or magenta edges. Makes white ugly.

 

[Atomicrox]

It's just the driver that goes into thermal shutdown. Maybe some a diode or two in series with the LD you'd be able to use a blackbuck. I'm off and on looking for the drivers CNI uses in their DPSS units (they won't sell them to me separately)

FYI I asked DTR (https://laserpointerforums.com/f67/blackbuck-6-6-amp-led-laser-diode-driver-96405-3.html#post1532698) and he suggests a minimum Vf of 2.5V for the blackbuck. 2 extra diodes at least.

 

[styropyro]

If we have to add rectifier diodes in series with the laser diode on our currently available buck drivers, we might as well just use a very low dropout linear regulator to power it up in a host. I have a simple linear driver design that should be able to power up the whole circuit with a single Li-ion. Just waiting on my Mouser order to come in...

 

[paul1598419]

I know this concerns the BB drivers. I'm not sure it pertains to all buck drivers as I have quite a few from when Lazeerer was active. IDK. I like this in a lab host. I don't see me putting one into a handheld. At least not now.

 

[styropyro]

For how cheap these are why not have both? I do like having handhelds of as many wavelengths as possible...but anything class IV I prefer in a labby.

 

[paul1598419]

If you were counting the pump diode, these would be Class IV lasers. They do cause the driver to heat up quite a bit. Knew immediately the driver output, at least, would need a heat sink.

 

[Encap]

If members are interested in making hand held lasers with the 20mm modules from the $30 wonders---might be a good idea to ask Shenzhen Optlaser fora module only price for the current one and also the 100mW and 20mw version coming next week.

Mentioned same in the other thread as well. Would guess they would be <$10 or $12 each

 

[styropyro]

100mW you say? That's awesome...I'll have to order one as soon as they come out!

If you were counting the pump diode, these would be Class IV lasers. They do cause the driver to heat up quite a bit. Knew immediately the driver output, at least, would need a heat sink.

I just mean for safety reasons...I rarely break out my multi-watt handheld blues just because of how carefully they have to be handled. I don't mind having to follow a duty cycle for exotic wavelength handhelds. My DL Spartan 589 gets pretty warm after a minute or so of use but I do love being able to shine a yellow laser beam!