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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

50 Watt UV Light






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UV Power output with this 390nm LED is ~20 Watts.

Some camera's show the UV wavelengths.
 
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~20W is pretty damn good. With that kind of intensity you might be able to market to rockhounds as well.
 
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These lights work fine for curing the clear optical UV adhesive I have.
 

rhd

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Chinese watts or real watts? Did you measure it? If so, how?

For the benefit of those who don't understand the comment above:

ChineseWatts = Max (ActualWatts x 3, CompetitorAdvertisedWatts x 1.5, WattsRequestedByCustomer)
 
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I have the complete chip spec sheet for all the various LED's I am testing . . .

Measured the actual DC current thru the LEDs . . .

LarryDFW
 
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rhd

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I have the complete spec sheet for all the various LED's I am testing . . .

Measured the actual DC current thru the LEDs . . .

LarryDFW

....how does measuring the actual DC current through the LEDs help you calculate the actual output wattage ?!?
 
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Hey guys, I want to tell you about this thing I'm making!

...Except I'm not going to tell you much of anything about this thing and answer all questions as vaguely as possible.

O4lRW.gif
 
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Cypara . .

Why don't you show LPF members a 50W input light that you have built,

that can run continuously without overheating . .
 
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I doubt it's anywhere near 20 Watts. Remember, most glass can filter or attenuate any light wavelength below 400 nanometers (I know because I have tried to focus the light from a 1 Watt 365nm multi-dice LED before, knocked down brightness down 10% - I wonder what type of epoxy is used to cover the UV LED dices in that LED modules). And, judging from color of the UV lights being seen by the camera, I am pretty sure it's between 410 - 390 nanometers, as 365nm light has a bit of ghastly purple color (I have a fluorescent blacklight which I sometimes use as a benchmark to compare against the unknown UV wavelength when the digital camera is used).

And second, I had the feeling that the UV lamp here is used intermittent, about 30 seconds or so without obliterating that expensive LED module. Most PC sealed water coolers from Asetek would be a better way to keep that LED cool for a while, providing the 120mm fan has enough airflow to remove about 70 - 100 watts heat from the LED module. My hunch, again, is that it's not 20 Watts output as mentioned above (optical loss due to UV absorption), it could be 13 - 14 Watts.
 
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Why don't you show LPF members a 50W input light that you have built,

Logical fallacy. Tu quoque - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've run 100W LEDs and I've assembled 1000W discharge lamp fixtures, both of which run indefinitely. Many of us have - it's not that hard. Be assured that if I wished to show LPF something I made, I would detail it far better than you do.

This isn't about me, though, is it?
 
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Something to think about.

Nevertheless, LarryDFW, it is a bit insulting if you try to answer the asked-of questions as vaguely as possible. Not to mention if you were to do the same with the used car you are selling, you could be in trouble. Instead, if you don't want to answer as much, probably (emphasize "probably"), it should not be a show and tell. Some individuals are interested in knowing how you built, and where you bought the LED (nothing's proprietary at ALL, a particular LED used can be found easily by googling, so is the driver, as they are bound to be a clone anyhow.)
 

rhd

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Logical fallacy. Tu quoque - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've run 100W LEDs and I've assembled 1000W discharge lamp fixtures, both of which run indefinitely. Many of us have - it's not that hard. Be assured that if I wished to show LPF something I made, I would detail it far better than you do.

This isn't about me, though, is it?

I say it's straight up ad hominem, no tu quoque, but I raise you an additional argumentum ad ignorantium and for the assertion that you had never constructed one yourself, a hint of ignoratio elenchi.
 




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