Panos
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- Joined
- May 19, 2012
- Messages
- 27
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Hi all :wave:
After so much reading, research and time I builded this. I could build it 2 months ago as I had almost all the parts but some problems in my life forced me to do it now (it is better late than never). I have to apologize for my bad quality photos, I got them with a mobile phone because my video camera is inoperable now and my electronic microscope (it can get very good images too like camera) is at my mother's home many kilometers away from me. I have to apologize and for my (bad) English too. So when you are not understanding something it is not your fault, it is mine cuz of my bad photos and (bad) language speaking. So, please feel free to ask me whatever you like to know and help me to do this thread more informative or more scrutable.And now we have:
1 laser diode 9mm 445nm with its own lens ready in a copper module by DTR.
(Now I can understand why everybody loves this man, my cooperation with Jordan was the best part of my experiance in lasers. I think that maybe is most possible some day to the future to forget the lasers but never Jordan. I have so many good words to say about him but words are not enough as we talk about DTR, it's name is guarantee.)1 laser diode 9mm 445nm with its own lens ready in a copper module by DTR.
DTR's Laser Shop
1 x-driver at 2.1 A, a copper heatsink for the driver and a blank board by Lazeerer.
(Angelos is a very good scientist, from the first moment of my cooperation with him untill now everything is perfect. I have never seen so good work on a circuit. At least I found my man on drivers and I think I will never change him because I think is impossible to see something better than his perfect drivers and service, he is guarantee too.)All lazeerer's Reviews, Tips & Mods
1 host c-6 with extension to can fit 2 IMR 18650, copper heatsink for the module, tripod, focus adapter, Céramique 2 Thermal Compound and goggles by survival laser.
(I report only the parts I used in this build, and the goggles is a must for a build as a rule. Gary is a very helpful man and his shop "survival laser" has so many good items, almost everything, high quality and the prices are very good. Whatever I got from him untill now is qualitative and I trust him.)survival laser
2 batteries IMR 18650 panasonic 3400 mah and a charger by LarryDFW.
(Larry is a specialist to batteries, he has the best batteries, he is informative and I seen that everything was ok with my order. The next time I will need quality batteries will be again by him. he is a good professional.)18650 Batteries & Chargers
The story:
The story is not very short. The first thing I did was to take off the lens from its metal cage that came with it with the method of Blord. For more information how to do it just click here. Then I putted the copper heatsink on the driver (IC) with arctic alumina thermal adhesive and I made some cutting on the pill with a drill and a file to can fit the big copper heatsink (5.1 grams-13x12x5mm) I had put on the driver. Then I checked it and I seen that the driver's heatsink was touching (pushing) the module's heatsink and it wouldn't let the front part of the host to screw all the way in. I had two options here, the first option was to cut a little (~1mm) the driver's heatsink, and the second option was to steal 1mm from the room of the batteries and to give it to the room of the pill, so the driver's heatsink would fit almost perfectly. I choosed the second option of course because I wouldn't cut the heatsink and it is easier, I had only to put the blank board to the back of the ring, just out of the pill instead of putting the blank board inside the ring (so inside the pill). I soldered the (back of the) ring with the blank board and a red silicone wire to the Vout "+" of the blank board (I didn't solder a black wire to the Vout "-" of the blank board because I would connect the driver's Vin "-" to the host via the ring, The spot of the Vin "-" on the driver is very near to the ring so I didn't need any black wire, only just a little solder). Then I glued the driver's heatsink to the blank board (I had put the driver already on the heatsink, as I said above) by putting very little thermal silicone to the side of the driver's heatsink that was toward the blank board. Then I measured, cutted and soldered the red wire I had solder on the blank board on to the driver's Vin "+" spot and I soldered the spot Vin "-" of the driver to the ring (the most near point). Of course I putted some solder onto the Vin "+" of the blank board and I made a conduction spot for the batteries spot "+".
The others were easy, because DTR's diode was already in a copper module with it's silicone wires and I had only to measure, cut and solder the wires onto the driver's Vout "+" and Vout "-". I putted Céramique 2 Thermal Compound between the pill and the 2 sides of the driver's heatsink left and right (maybe sometime I will put thermal adhesive between the pill and the sides of the driver's heatsink but at least for now I do not), between the module and the heatsink, between the heatsink and the host, between all the parts of the host I had to screw. The only parts that I had to screw and did not put Céramique 2 Thermal Compound was the lens holder and the focus adapter.
some photos without the pill:
and some photos with the pill:
.......and the back side view:
Before I put Thermal Compound and do the assembly:
Photo 1 laser is off, photo 2 and 3 is on:
Beam (without focus it well):
Goggles is a must:
Test load: 4 x IN5404 diodes + 1 x 1 Ohm resistor ±2%:
(The only use I did was to check stability.)
I do not have an LPM but I guess that this laser is about 2.5 W or more:thinking:. Its duty cycle I think that is about 2 minutes on and about 3 minutes off because after 2 minutes it is hot (I can handle it to its heatsink but it is hot and I do not want to become hotter) and it needs about 3 minutes to come again to its previous temperature. The sense organ was my hand (hands are not a trustable source).
A video for the end, enjoy it :beer:
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