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FrozenGate by Avery

400 mw spartan no driver

kcorbhv

kcorbhv

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Jun 25, 2010
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well i gave up on the driver i destroyed so i connected everything inside the host using some foil and wire so the diode is connected directly to the batterys . it works great for now LOL heres some pics all were taken with no driver inside and one lens(not the factory one) it burns matches standard re heads type without blackeneing the heads at 2 MTERES.

400mwspartananddriver.jpg


400mwspartanbeam.jpg


400mwspartanbeamb.jpg


400mwspartannodriver1mt.jpg
 





That is such a HORRIBLE idea. Your going to burn up a perfectly good diode.
 
LOL nice. true that it might destroy the diode, but then again it might not. theoretically a diode in series with a power source and no resistance or driver would provide infinite current and fry the diode... however sometimes the battery and wire have just enough internal resistance to let the diode run happy. i have a 200mW-ish red that i built years back thats still burning strong with just the diode and 2x AA batteries, no driver or resistor.

again, way to try it out!
 
udanis said:
That is such a HORRIBLE idea. Your going to burn up a perfectly good diode.
Click to expand...

ive destroyed about a dozen diodes before i started reading on these forums , this is one TOUGH diode lol ive had tortured it in many ways and it still works and yes i know that itll most likely die alls i can do is keep the on button limited to as short as possible i think.
 
thebucketmouse said:
LOL nice. true that it might destroy the diode, but then again it might not. theoretically a diode in series with a power source and no resistance or driver would provide infinite current and fry the diode... however sometimes the battery and wire have just enough internal resistance to let the diode run happy. i have a 200mW-ish red that i built years back thats still burning strong with just the diode and 2x AA batteries, no driver or resistor.

again, way to try it out!
Click to expand...


Okay....so when was the last time you purchased a laser without current limiting? I know I never have even the super cheap ones I have gotten from DX have current limiting. If you have an ample power supply the (Spartan does) the diode with be getting way to much current. The resistance of the wire and "foil" are not going to serve as a consistent way to limit the current. You had a laser that I would of paid $100 for (without the driver) and reduced the value down to the value of the host, because you shortened the diode's life so much.
 
udanis, i have never purchased a diode without a current limiting driver but as i said, i have built one. let me explain again why his laser works: suppose you build a laser using a 3.6v 18650 battery. if you have only 3-4 ohms of internal resistance with the battery's resistance and the tin foil/wire resistance, ohm's law tells us that we will get about 900mA through the diode. perfect current flow for this 445nm diode
 
There are people on the forums who will fix problems like these free of charge. Usually you have to Ph shipping and parts but that's all. Personally I think you should make a thread and see if someone will fix it.
 
It's unlikely that direct drive will kill this diode, but you might not be getting full power out of it. Members have run these diodes at direct drive and have gotten only about 400mW out of it.
 
Eh, breaking stuff and fixing it is the best way to learn ;) I know computer hardware inside and out because I overclock everything and have released the magical smoke many times. Try to make sure your stuff dies while doing something cool though, it feel better that way.
 
Well it is not pulling more than 2A from the battery. If it was it would go dim like it did in my attempts to kill an A140. I wonder if it is that the battery is not capable of supplying it or the host has sufficient resistance?

 
Unless my electrical knowledge is lacking more than I think it is, the amount of amps it pulls is limited by the voltage the batteries supply.
 
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Well .. the diode has voltage/current curve going up (higher voltage -> higher current) .. battery has it going down (higher current -> lower voltage). Where they intersect, there it will stabilize.
 
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