2x LOC REDS combined with a PBS CUBE 410mw

[LikeitBright]

Kenom, that setup is hot! did you build it?

If not point me in the direction where I can buy it.

Thats definitely out of something. What kind of optic/prism is that combining the beams.....not a regular PBS...?

 

[Kenom]

That is from a laser printer.  Minolta.  That is a specialized beam combiner specifically designed for this setup.

So can you point me in the direction of a driver that will work for this setup?  Obviously a lm317 based driver just isn't going to cut it.

How about a thin section of foam in between the diode mountings to electrically isolate them... That sounds like a feasable idea... I'm dying to see 500mw+ of 660nm!!

 

[JLSE]

If you want to combine to reds, why not a single driver? Running them both at 400mA in paralell would give a decent output, and the reds are pretty consistant in both power consumption and output.

If you need to isolate them, some 1in black heatsrink tube would also work well. Using foam or other materials would only serve to insulate. I have found that heatshrink is not all that bad at conducting heat, but id still raather paralell the two diodes.

Im going to try two 6x diodes and two reds when my rig arrives I will be running the reds in paralell, but seperate for the 6x. Ive got a couple of LG 22x reds and glass optics waiting and am going to order a couple of those miracle lenses that Jayrob found on ebay ;D

 

[Diode_Virgin]

If you want to combine to reds, why not a single driver? Running them both at 400mA in paralell would give a decent output, and the reds are pretty consistant in both power consumption and output.

If you need to isolate them, some 1in black heatsrink tube would also work well. Using foam or other materials would only serve to insulate. I have found that heatshrink is not all that bad at conducting heat, but id still raather paralell the two diodes.

Im going to try two 6x diodes and two reds when my rig arrives I will be running the reds in paralell, but seperate for the 6x. Ive got a couple of LG 22x reds and glass optics waiting and am going to order a couple of those miracle lenses that Jayrob found on ebay ;D

What about wraping diodes (modules) in some of that transistor heat sink material, they must sell sheets of that stuff.

OBTW wanna burn, if you want better heat sinking you might want to sand off the anodizing where the aixiz module comes in contact with the clam shell, my understanding is that anodizing is not as effiecient of thermal transfer as bare alluminum. FWIIW Let me know when you get it and your honest opinion. I wanted to anodize the whole thing but kept making changes to get it where it is.

Kenom- Can those cubes be obtained in quantities or do you just have to wreak out minolta printers.

 

[JLSE]

I hadnt thought of that one, that material would be much more suitable over the heatshrink

I will probably give a light sanding to remove the anodize as prescribed, and of course an ample coating of thermal paste for good measure.

One question... What is the minimum cube size that can be used with this? I have an assortment of cube sizes up to 2in, but smaller ones as well, approx. 10mmx12mm from the 6x sleds etc. I can always make some sort of adapter if need be, I didnt think to ask before hand.

 

[691175002]

I am very skeptical that anodizing would hamper cooling ability.  Aluminium oxide will form naturally anyways and wikipedia classifies it as having a high thermal conductivity (Although not as high as aluminium).  Anodization is so thin anyways that it shouldn't make a difference.

 

[Diode_Virgin]

I am very skeptical that anodizing would hamper cooling ability.  Aluminium oxide will form naturally anyways and wikipedia classifies it as having a high thermal conductivity (Although not as high as aluminium).  Anodization is so thin anyways that it shouldn't make a difference.

Thanks, it was just something I heard wasnt sure if it was true or not.

Wannaburn - use very little if next to none heat sink compound it will just make a mess and I dont think it is necessary witht he clam shell design. You will see we contact 99.5% (just guessing) of housing. I would reccommend the 10 x 10 PBS but this mount is set up for a 15 x 15mm cube not much bigger.

 

[Krutz]

I have an assortment of cube sizes up to 2in, but smaller ones as well, approx. 10mmx12mm from the 6x sleds etc.

What? a 10x12mm pbs from a sled? the largest i ever saw was from a kes300 (ps3) sled, with 5x5mm, if i remember right. any other cube, no matter if polarizing or somethint else, was considerably smaller! so, what are good sources for medium-sized pbs cubes? like for combining only two beams?
larger than that, like 10x10 and more, for combining arrays of lasers, seem to be more expensive with 35$ minimum.

what are the sizes of your cubes in those combiners, laserman, kenom?

manuel

 

[Diode_Virgin]

[quote author=WannaBurn link=1234846060/32#36 date=1236897310]I have an assortment of cube sizes up to 2in, but smaller ones as well, approx. 10mmx12mm from the 6x sleds etc.

What? a 10x12mm pbs from a sled? the largest i ever saw was from a kes300 (ps3) sled, with 5x5mm, if i remember right. any other cube, no matter if polarizing or somethint else, was considerably smaller! so, what are good sources for medium-sized pbs cubes? like for combining only two beams?
larger than that, like 10x10 and more, for combining arrays of lasers, seem to be more expensive with 35$ minimum.

what are the sizes of your cubes in those combiners, laserman, kenom?

manuel[/quote]


No, the ones in the sleds are too small once you get a beam out of an aixiz module. I can get them for you. I suggest at minimum a 10 x 10 mm cube - they are $50.00 ea coated for what ever wavelength ou are working on.

 

[Krutz]

well, the (guessed) 5x5mm cube from the kes300 sled is just large enough to cover the whole beam, i tried it. without mounting, just a flying setup to test. mounting and adjusting is another problem, but at least its cheap, for experimenting!
with 10x10 or 15x15 i already see 8 diodes combined.. ;-)

manuel

 

[Diode_Virgin]

well, the (guessed) 5x5mm cube from the kes300 sled is just large enough to cover the whole beam, i tried it. without mounting, just a flying setup to test. mounting and adjusting is another problem, but at least its cheap, for experimenting!
with 10x10 or 15x15 i already see 8 diodes combined.. ;-)

manuel

Yes, That is why I like the 10 x 10mm you have a little wiggle room, I have seen the arctos system, which one are you talking about? Something commercial or a hobbiest set up where the beams dont come together.

 

[Kenom]

The aixiz module is not aluminum and not anodized.  They are brass and are plated.  The plating on this is not going to be much of a hinderance for heatsinking.

I wish I could find those beam combining optics seperately. Sadly you have to tear into a minola laser copier/printer.

 

[drlava]

Nice laserman, I like how compact it is and easy to work with and replace the diodes. Did you offset the angles just a bit to prevent the small back reflection from the cube from re-entering the lens at the same angle?

I am building a pbs combined red right now too using the cube from the KES400A. It's just large enough if you are perfect with the entry, but leaves no wiggle room!

 

[Diode_Virgin]

Ill spend the little xtra at this point to have that all important wiggle room. OBTW Tonight broke the .5 watt barrier in red and 240 mw of blue Yes offset a tad but using the right cubes helps out.

 

[od2rileec]

where is it you get these 50 dollar pbs cubes from? Id be interested maybe!

 

[suiraM]

I wish I could find those beam combining optics seperately. Sadly you have to tear into a minola laser copier/printer.

For beam combining, one reflective grating, four wedges, four Meredith modules and four 2W 9mm diodes from heruursciences should be a better option. If you want a round beam, you can use meniscus cylinders or a pair of plano-convex cylinders to correct the astigmatism. The required wedge angles are calculated from the grating period, wavelength and refractive index of the material you are using (at the relevant wavelength). The formulas are on Wikipedia. If you're just looking for a pointer, you can cut the correct angle for a plastic wedge by yourself with a high power laser, then polish it.

A polarizing beam splitter will just give you two overlapping, perpendicular ellipses, with the alignment being equally critical. Also, you are limited to two diodes, whereas most linear gratings will give you at least two orders, and a starfield grating gives you way more.