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FrozenGate by Avery

2W SAIK SA-305 26650 Host W/Massive Mohrenberg Heatsink






There's no magic in those clips but I wish I had thought of it!!
The drivers are mounted on 35 Caliber copper gas checks and
the clip is a small copper angle to heatsink that FET. It's all
Arctic epoxied together. Wish I had thought of the clip though!

HMike

1/1/11 I safely removed the SAIK guts and made a new +spring holder. Ground is from a screw threaded into the old PS mounting. Since I don't have my 26650 cell yet, I'm using an 18650 for power. The 3.4 Oz of Aluminum seems to provide good heatsinking.
Thanks to DTR for being the first to try this. It was a fun project.

4493-saik4.jpg


The funny part at turn on is from balistic overshoot of the chart recorder.
 
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Hemlock_Mike said:
There's no magic in those clips but I wish I had thought of it!!
The drivers are mounted on 35 Caliber copper gas checks and
the clip is a small copper angle to heatsink that FET. It's all
Arctic epoxied together. Wish I had thought of the clip though!

HMike

1/1/11 I safely removed the SAIK guts and made a new +spring holder. Ground is from a screw threaded into the old PS mounting. Since I don't have my 26650 cell yet, I'm using an 18650 for power. The 3.4 Oz of Aluminum seems to provide good heatsinking.
Thanks to DTR for being the first to try this. It was a fun project.

The funny part at turn on is from balistic overshoot of the chart recorder.
Click to expand...


Glad you were inspired. Looks very stable. You may have gotten a good one after all. If you drive that LD @ 1.8A you may get to 2W or damn close with a G-1.:D


Hemlock_Mike said:
What is the best current lens assembly for the 455 diode?
HMike
Click to expand...


Personally I like the half threaded ones from O-like the best. Least splash and most power other than a G-1 which is 5X the cost. But you will have to glue a focus ring on the top if you want one.;)

Anyway looks like you have a great build there and even though your clips are not magic they look damn professional. Great job. And happy new year.
smiley-eatdrink060.gif
 
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Thanks for the compliments and that little guy with the bottle -- Well -- I posed for that!!
Happy New Year---

HMike
 
Hemlock_Mike said:
Thanks for the compliments and that little guy with the bottle -- Well -- I posed for that!!
Happy New Year---

HMike
Click to expand...

Here is one for last night.
smiley-eatdrink060.gif
And here is one for this morning.
drunk.gif
 
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DTR --

I'm using an AixiZ 445 lens now. Problem is, the primary lens isn't "kissing" the LD meaning I'm loosing power. Which 445 lens gets in there to get the whole beam from the LD?
HMike
 
Hemlock_Mike said:
DTR --

I'm using an AixiZ 445 lens now. Problem is, the primary lens isn't "kissing" the LD meaning I'm loosing power. Which 445 lens gets in there to get the whole beam from the LD?
HMike
Click to expand...

I am not sure that either the Aixiz lenses or O-Like lenses actually get closer to the diode with the first glass element than any other. My only experience is with observations of how the different lenses preform. Maybe somebody that knows the optics a little better than I can chime in. But I do know the G-1 screws in pretty far and the first element is sitting right on top of the diode when focused.:beer:

Maybe Jayrob might be able to give some more info.:beer:
 
DTR said:
I am not sure that either the Aixiz lenses or O-Like lenses actually get closer to the diode with the first glass element than any other. My only experience is with observations of how the different lenses preform. Maybe somebody that knows the optics a little better than I can chime in. But I do know the G-1 screws in pretty far and the first element is sitting right on top of the diode when focused.

Maybe Jayrob might be able to give some more info.
Click to expand...


The 405-G-1 is a single element aspheric lens with a short focal length...

So it does sit very close to the diode. You have to give up a little power for a better looking dot with the 445's. (about 15% less power vs 405-G-1) The half threaded lens from o-like is the same as the half threaded from AixiZ. They must get them from the same supplier.

Those are very similar to what we are calling the AixiZ 445. (full threaded) But the half threaded ones seem to be just a tad better. Maybe 5 or 6% more power. But you have to glue on your focus adapter.

Which is why I usually recommend the AixiZ 445 for best visual dot. And the 405-G-1 for the most power and best burning. (at close distance)
 
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Jayrob -- you rat :evil:

I put your lens on my build and when I went to measure power, I got smoke from the power head :yabbem: No real damage :beer:
Your lens needs to be defocused more than I did or coatings will smoke out!

HMike
 
Hemlock_Mike said:
Jayrob -- you rat :evil:

I put your lens on my build and when I went to measure power, I got smoke from the power head :yabbem: No real damage :beer:
Your lens needs to be defocused more than I did or coatings will smoke out!

HMike
Click to expand...

Your LPM sensor is not a cd case. You are not trying to see how fast you can burn a hole through it.:crackup:

I like to defocus by going past infinity(I use that word lightly) that way any amount of defocus is safe for your sensor. Pre infinity the beam is like an hour glass but with it past infinity it spreads like a flashlight from the aperture.:)
 
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Hemlock_Mike said:
Jayrob -- you rat :evil:

I put your lens on my build and when I went to measure power, I got smoke from the power head :yabbem: No real damage :beer:
Your lens needs to be defocused more than I did or coatings will smoke out!

HMike
Click to expand...

:crackup: Hope it didn't damage the sensor!
 
Not enough that I have to recoat it! Your lens analysis above looks good for distance vs burn quality.
HMike
 
So Mike what is that bad boy reading with the G-1?:yh:
 
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