260W IR Laser pump handheld?

[Encap]

Drilling ceramics with chemicals?
Sounds like a minor's/child's daydream approach to the problem.
Be careful. Don't be an accident looking for a place to happen.

 

[Borislav@87]

Change of plan. I'm going to put this 1800W driver, which can handle up to 22A output . The 600W ones make strange noises when turned on at the same time and I don't like that. I set it to 32V and 18A and it works perfectly. I made this bridge for measuring amperage from a YouTube video. Since my device only measures 10A, with the help of this copper wire and pre-calibration, I can measure very high amperage without any problems. It does a perfect job! I recorded a video for you to see. Even without a focusing lens, its power is great. Now I have to redo the dropper and install another switch

 

[Borislav@87]

I also set the step-down driver for the 120W laser. The battery is 24V, and the driver works at 16V/15A. This is a protective glass glued with glue on the front. This way the laser is sealed. However, it heats up very quickly because it is small and has no cooling. The good thing about this driver is that it is very small and does not take up space.

 

[Nickguy]

hi, what drill bit did you use and what rpms because i just acquired another pump source from a used machine and it seems to be 700w or 1kw

 

[Borislav@87]

Today I got this box. In it I will make the 120W laser which will be powered by 9 18650 batteries at 12V. I will use this converter which outputs 15V and 15A. It does very well in the tests. I am still waiting for the BMS for the other 260W laser. The 120W one will become quite compact. I hope that 9 batteries will do well.

 

[Borislav@87]

Today I also made the 12V battery with 9 18650 batteries. I put 16 AWG silicone cables on the BMS output. Do you think they are thick enough for the 15V and 15A load?

 

[Borislav@87]

Today I also bought this 500W Raycus pump. The $200 offer was just worth it. With this pump, the filament is removed very easily. Here is a video. I will use the same driver, which is up to 22 amps. There are some step-down drivers that are 30 and 50 amps, but I will need a battery with about 50V. I can connect two 24V packs in series, but it becomes very complicated.

 

[RedCowboy]

I haven't used this bard yet, but it should be useful.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807019349248.html?

 

[Borislav@87]

@RedCowboy
I looked at these, but I don't need them at the moment.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwsI2Nm

 

[RedCowboy]

The one you just listed is constant voltage, no constant current pot, but with so many diodes in series as long as you stay a safe margin below max, then you should be able to get away with it.

 

[Borislav@87]

The one you just listed is constant voltage, no constant current pot, but with so many diodes in series as long as you stay a safe margin below max, then you should be able to get away with it.

Yes, I know. I can adjust it to this high amperage using the copper wire, like in the video above. But I will use the 1800W boost driver. It is up to 22-23 amps. The power supply will be from two packs of 6 26650/5000mha batteries connected in parallel. Because the BMS I have outputs 40A. With two packs I will have an output of 24V at 80 amps. That way I will have a large reserve so that there are no problems with 42V and 22 amps consumption

 

[Borislav@87]

The one you just listed is constant voltage, no constant current pot, but with so many diodes in series as long as you stay a safe margin below max, then you should be able to get away with it.

These are the same but have an amperage adjustment option

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGEFm0c

 

[Nickguy]

If you use the 500w pump you must use active cooling through the heatsink mine is rather inneficient as it’s a older 500w model, it heats up extremely quickly and I might switch to water cooling

 

[Borislav@87]

If you use the 500w pump you must use active cooling through the heatsink mine is rather inneficient as it’s a older 500w model, it heats up extremely quickly and I might switch to water cooling

The cooling will be active of course. There is no danger of overheating for me, because I always put a temperature sensor with a display and see how many degrees. In this case, I always use the lasers for short cycles. 10-20 seconds there is no danger of overheating.

 

[Borislav@87]

Today I connected the 120W laser. I didn't have a Secret key and I made a bridge on the plus in order to be able to disconnect the connection so that it doesn't turn on unintentionally when I'm not using it. I'll have to put a metal plate in the front part, because when trying with lenses it sometimes reflects back and melts the plastic