1st DIY Laser Project. 8x BDR-203. NEED IDEAS!!

[bottles]

1st DIY Laser Project. 8x BDR-203. ~Preliminary Stage~

Well, first of all, I'm considering about using JayRob's HotOption Kits. I'm mainly considering...if possible...the Cree RC-A3 Kit if it can be done, and, if not, I'm going for Mini Mag Kit. But if I'm using 8x diode then would the 14650 battery give me enough juice or should I go for the 3405 model instead like what Jay suggested to Dave? Many different factors to consider before choosing my direction:

1) Host (Not sure): 4171/3405 Kit vs. Mini Mag Kit vs. Cree RC-A3

- If the RC-A3 host can be done as a kit then that would be my choice due to its aesthetic beauty :beer: but if not then...I might consider the Black Host in the Mini Mag Kit.
- Whats the largest capacity type of battery that can be put into an RC-A3 host or the Black host?? So far I can only say 14650 for the Black Host and 14500 for the RC-A3 only if its feasible...

2) Laser Diode (For sure): 8x Pioneer BDR-203 sled. (on sale at a local shop for $200...quite expensive)

3) Driver: MicroFlexDrive V4 (Noticed in Daguin's BDR-203 thread on page 3 about JayRob making a DDL driver for the 3405 host)

- Jay is using a 1/2 watt pot (so it can be adjusted to max 400mA) for that DDL driver instead of a 1/4 watt so would the MicroFlexDrive V4 do as good a job if I were to set my max current draw to 350mA which is quite high?
- I still feel reluctant to go to 350mA. I feel as though its safer to stay with 310mA driver setting for the sake of the longevity of the diode.

4) Collimating Lens System & Module: 405-G-1 Lens Mod "Option" since its supposed to boost the output by more than 25%.

5) Heatsink: (Included with Kit.)

6) Battery: The gist of it is that I want the most juice from the battery going to the diode. Any good suggestions for battery type?

Any suggestions as to how I can maximize output while not seriously compromising the longevity of the diode? My aim is above 520mW if possible. Any ideas about this DIY would be great!! :thanks:

PS. its nice to be part of this forum.

 

[dr-ebert]

Above 520mW, that's aiming high for a first build, even with this diode! There's a long thread about it somewhere, which you should check if you haven't already. The max voltage output of the FlexDrive might be your limiting factor. You'll definitely need the 405-G-1 lens for your goal. In batteries, lithium packs the most power.

 

[bottles]

Above 520mW, that's aiming high for a first build, even with this diode! There's a long thread about it somewhere, which you should check if you haven't already. The max voltage output of the FlexDrive might be your limiting factor. You'll definitely need the 405-G-1 lens for your goal. In batteries, lithium packs the most power.

Thanx for your input! Based on what Dave got, he got 500mW so I want to achieve the same thing if possible! If not over 520, I'm still happy with over 500mW. That max voltage output limit is why I'm thinking about that 1/2 watt potentiometer JayRob sent to Dave. I'm still reading up on some of those threads.

 

[jayrob]

If you like the looks of the Pocket Mini host, then by all means go for it!

I have a BDR 8X in a Pocket Mini, but since it uses a FlexDrive, I have the current set at less than 300mA's. (per Dr. Lava - high forward voltage for that diode)

But I have read that Sportcoupe has his at 360mA's with a FlexDrive and it is doing fine. See Here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/pioneer-8x-blu-ray-bdr-203-a-36790-16.html#post501020

Now, I would recommend that since it is your first build, to start with a PHR. They are only about 10 or 12 bucks for the sled. It is too easy to damage the diode. You want to practice before going for a $200+ diode.

But if your determined to get the 'Dave special', PM me and I'll quote you a price for the host/heatsink/driver/405-G-1 combo as shown here: (I can pre-set the desired current as well)
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/pioneer-8x-blu-ray-bdr-203-a-36790-5.html#post500740
Jay

 

[pullbangdead]

One tip to follow jayrob's similar advice: do a couple of PHRs before you tackle the 8x. They're cheap, they're easy, if you break the first one it's not a $200 mistake. I wouldn't do the $200 diode for a first rodeo if I were you, too many things can go wrong.

I like your ambition, and you've certainly done your research, but I would seriously consider getting a couple of PHRs working before you go for the big dog. I've done dozens of lasers now, and I'm still hesitant to drop $200 for a diode, just because so many little things can go wrong. You can get the process and the details down with the cheap ones so you know what not to do later. Getting diodes out of sleds and drives is not trivial, and these things are deceptively small. They look so big in pictures, but they are tiny and a pain to handle in general, and even more of a pain to solder.

Just my $.02, but good luck either way.

 

[Meatball]

Darkarmy (Tyler) does happen to have a "build any laser" service for a flat $10 if you're concerned about killing your diode during the build. But for if you still want to DIY, then i recommend the hot option from Jay, since it only requires the connection of the diode itself..

 

[bottles]

One tip to follow jayrob's similar advice: do a couple of PHRs before you tackle the 8x. They're cheap, they're easy, if you break the first one it's not a $200 mistake. I wouldn't do the $200 diode for a first rodeo if I were you, too many things can go wrong.

I like your ambition, and you've certainly done your research, but I would seriously consider getting a couple of PHRs working before you go for the big dog. I've done dozens of lasers now, and I'm still hesitant to drop $200 for a diode, just because so many little things can go wrong. You can get the process and the details down with the cheap ones so you know what not to do later. Getting diodes out of sleds and drives is not trivial, and these things are deceptively small. They look so big in pictures, but they are tiny and a pain to handle in general, and even more of a pain to solder.

Just my $.02, but good luck either way.

Thanx for the tip

In fact, I've chosen to go for the 3405-build host and the MicroFlexDrive V4.
The specifications say that it can only handle a maximum voltage output of 5.5V but according to SportCoupe, he is outputing 360mA with the FlexDrive V4 without much problems.

In terms of the diode, yup, I'm gonna get two of the PHR-803T diodes as a start. I'll add the 8x diode once I got the hang of the installation aspect of it.

Since I'm going for the 3405, I can use 3 x AAA or 10440 batteries which would give me enough juice.

I've thought about the Red OpenCan type of diodes but I find violet light to be the most beautiful

 

[bottles]

Darkarmy (Tyler) does happen to have a "build any laser" service for a flat $10 if you're concerned about killing your diode during the build. But for if you still want to DIY, then i recommend the hot option from Jay, since it only requires the connection of the diode itself..

I totally agree! Since this is going to be my first DIY, I would rather have less things to go wrong even though I want to construct it myself.

If things go well for this 1st DIY, then I'll delve more into customization...regardless of how much of a noob I am with these things

With technology growing rapidly, it won't be too long until a 12x diode comes out with a much higher continuous light output.

 

[pseudolobster]

Wow, you have very lofty aspirations. Best of luck, I hope you get enough practice from the PHR-803T's. It can be very easy to kill a diode.

If you're going with a host that can hold 3x AAA batteries, I'd go with one of jayrob's custom LM317T drivers with 3x 10440 lithiums, that way you can push it further if you like. I also tend to think 10440's with a DDL driver will give you better runtime vs AAA's and a flexdrive. (do note that 3 10440 lithiums will kill a flexdrive.. It has a max input of 6 volts.)

 

[bottles]

Wow, you have very lofty aspirations. Best of luck, I hope you get enough practice from the PHR-803T's. It can be very easy to kill a diode.

If you're going with a host that can hold 3x AAA batteries, I'd go with one of jayrob's custom LM317T drivers with 3x 10440 lithiums, that way you can push it further if you like. I also tend to think 10440's with a DDL driver will give you better runtime vs AAA's and a flexdrive. (do note that 3 10440 lithiums will kill a flexdrive.. It has a max input of 6 volts.)

Thanx for the note by the way about the 10440 lithiums killing the flexdrive. I'll think twice about going for the DDL driver with the 1/2 watt pot.

Still got lots of things to consider before deciding...

 

[dr-ebert]

The FlexDrive is mostly for people who want small builds with 3..4.5V power supplies like 1x(R)CR123A since it can transform voltage up and is more efficient. If you've got room and power, the DDL driver would be easier, cheaper and offer more possibilities.

 

[bottles]

The FlexDrive is mostly for people who want small builds with 3..4.5V power supplies like 1x(R)CR123A since it can transform voltage up and is more efficient. If you've got room and power, the DDL driver would be easier, cheaper and offer more possibilities.

Yup, my choice would be the customized DDL driver I think the rkcstr driver would also be a good choice but I like the flexibility that the DDL offers.

Now, here's my dillemma!?! I would really like to know which internet retail sites or shops are good choices to obtain DIY laser pointer parts (eg. Meredith Glass lens, Meredith Housing Module, Dorcy Heatsink, Laser Diodes) which could be easily shipped to or obtained in japan. It seems that most of the sites are based in the U.S. so shipping to Japan might be problematic... financially speaking...

I'll keep looking for various alternatives!

 

[dr-ebert]

I recommend the people selling here in the B/S/T or Group Buy sections. Laser parts are generally small, so shipping isn't that expensive. I'm in Europe and I think shipping from US was $3 in all cases, it shouldn't be different to Japan (I'm guessing). If you don't want to spend $3 shipping for a diode, $3 for an Aixiz, $3 for a driver etc. etc. I'm sure you can find persons who'll send you all the stuff in one go.

The rkcstr driver is just a small, assembled version of the DDL/LM317 driver with SMD components.

 

[Darkarmyofone]

I'd be more than happy to offer you my Services Bottles.

I offer a complete build service for merely $10 USD. You just cover shipping, and insurance "a MUST with an 8x build"

And your best bet is DEF the MXDL at those powers friend... i HIGHLY suggest turning the mA down a bit... i wouldnt bypass 300ma EVER with a 200 dollar diode... the few extra mW's you'll get can EASILY be compensated for by the amazing 405-G1 lens mod from Jayrob. it's simply not worth it. i've lost 300 dollars worth of 6X's due to seeing how hard i can push them... and i realized... for all that money... if i had just lowerd the current by 50mA... i would have saved ALL that money.

Anyways, just my advice, as i deal with builds such as this almost every day.

I hope i can be of some service to you, and welcome to LPF btw :wave:

Dark "Jhonny Build'em free"

 

[dr-ebert]

Hi Dark, what current do you suggest for GGWs?

 

[Darkarmyofone]

175mAh is my maximum usualy. Jayrob sais he never surpasses 190mAh with his GGW's but myne just burned out at 190, so i now say 175 is safest, not to mention if your using a 6x, you SHOULD be using it with a 405-G1 lens too, so 15mAh wont make squat of a difference in power really.

I'd much rather have an alive 6X than a LEDified one like i do now... but i got 4 on the way ^_^ yay!

Dark