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FrozenGate by Avery

12x sled

@ jander6442,

Thanks for the tip, I have been looking for some epoxy putty for a while unsuccessfully, and it seems like a better idea than the glue I used. It was meant to have a 5 minute setting / handling time, but it was still too runny...
My efforts to acquire some more epoxy putty ( I have had some before, and some cheap stuff is not as good as some branded stuff. The cheap stuff crumbles after a few months. Both tended to 'dry out' if not used within 2 years of purchase..) are now more urgent as it will become a part of my builds in the future.

@ Prototype
They may well be magnesium, I do not know. Sorry.
Isn't magnesium a little expensive for something like this ?


I hope to have another look at the 12x build, later, to see if there is another problem to fix (like the other pin broken off).
It seems that the solid core copper wire has soldered OK to the broken pin, the output of the microboost is 13 volts indicating the there is an open circuit.


Best wishes

David
 





All the sleds i've taken apart so far have appeared to be zinc castings.
 
Autist said:
@ jander6442,

Thanks for the tip, I have been looking for some epoxy putty for a while unsuccessfully, and it seems like a better idea than the glue I used. It was meant to have a 5 minute setting / handling time, but it was still too runny...
My efforts to acquire some more epoxy putty ( I have had some before, and some cheap stuff is not as good as some branded stuff. The cheap stuff crumbles after a few months. Both tended to 'dry out' if not used within 2 years of purchase..) are now more urgent as it will become a part of my builds in the future.

@ Prototype
They may well be magnesium, I do not know. Sorry.
Isn't magnesium a little expensive for something like this ?


I hope to have another look at the 12x build, later, to see if there is another problem to fix (like the other pin broken off).
Click to expand...
It seems that the solid core copper wire has soldered OK to the broken pin, the output of the microboost is 13 volts indicating the there is an open circuit.


Best wishes

David
Click to expand...


It is an ex diode. It has gone to meet it's maker. It is no more.

:cryyy:

best wishes

David
 
mfo said:
Hey bro, what current you driving yours at? Thanks.
Click to expand...

That is a very good question. Did not have a test load yet when I put it together. And I don't think I should post the method I used to set it because of the risk. Don't need someone following in my impatient footsteps and damaging their diode. But I have another sled on the way and I have a flexdrive that is set to 600mA. When I get it I will see if that current will kill this diode or not.
 
DTR said:
That is a very good question. Did not have a test load yet when I put it together. And I don't think I should post the method I used to set it because of the risk. Don't need someone following in my impatient footsteps and damaging their diode. But I have another sled on the way and I have a flexdrive that is set to 600mA. When I get it I will see if that current will kill this diode or not.
Click to expand...

Well, do you have a multimeter?
 
mfo said:
Well, do you have a multimeter?
Click to expand...

Just got one but I am still waiting on my test load and I have this thing a put together and don't really feel like removing the shrink tubing to expose the contact points.
 
DTR said:
Just got one but I am still waiting on my test load and I have this thing a put together and don't really feel like removing the shrink tubing to expose the contact points.
Click to expand...

No need to go through all of that.

If your host unscrews from the end, here's what you can do.

Set your meter to ammeter.

Touch one probe to the battery, and the other to the host. This will tell you the current draw of the diode.
 
That tells current draw of the driver MFO, which will be higher because it draws more current to boost the voltage

Rob
 
robjdixon said:
That tells current draw of the driver MFO, which will be higher because it draws more current to boost the voltage

Rob
Click to expand...

It read 2.07 so that does seems to be the current draw of the driver.

Another member had told me with the microboost you can do this to read the current output of the driver but it may not be as accurate as a test load.

"Current is measured in series so you would connect your DMM between the output of your driver and the input of the diode, (+ to +)."

But like I said I already already put it all together and put shrink tubing on the connections.
 
Last edited:
Got some power data on this diode and posted in Daguin's thread but I thought I would throw it up here as well.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/harvesting-lite-12x-52254-2.html#post778793

thanks 3zuli for entering my data into this graph.
29231d1283685022-harvesting-lite-12x-12xliteon.png


mA@V=mW
60@4.1=50
80@4.3=76
100@4.5=109
120@4.7=136
140@4.9=163
160@5.0=190
180@5.2=215
200@5.3=250
220@5.4=276
240@5.5=311
260@5.6=349
280@5.6=372
300@5.7=409
320@5.7=425
340@5.8=462
360@5.9=491
380@5.9=514
400@5.9=544
420@6.0=573
440@6.0=600
460@6.0=638
480@6.1=662
500@6.1=687
520@6.1=720
540@6.1=736
560@6.1=761
580@6.2=785
600@6.2=806
620@6.3=831
640@6.3=842
660@6.3=863
680@6.4=877
700@6.4=894
720@6.4=908
 
I would turn that down a bit keep it in the 440mA range. Was this the same sled order from rayfoss?

you defianatly drove that diode hard sir, I salute you:gj:
 
jander6442 said:
I would turn that down a bit keep it in the 440mA range. Was this the same sled order from rayfoss?

you defiantly drove that diode hard sir, I salute you:gj:
Click to expand...

It was the Rayfoss sled. I have been getting a lot of requests to give some good detailed info on these diodes. I ran this particular diode at 450mA for over 3 hours. Then I did these tests and when I put it back in my 18650 host I turned it up to 580mA and it is now putting out 777mW. I should be getting another sled next week and that one I will probably set to 500mA for my 18650 host then do a kill test on this one. I just have to see whether people would rather see how long it can run at a particular current or see where it pops if I keep increasing by 20mA.

 
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