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FrozenGate by Avery

1-2W green laser?






Why wouldn't you need a 1-2 watt green laser. It would be fun to walk around with at night and point at the sky (until someone sees you out their window and over reacts and calls the cops). But the batteries would probably die fast and you would need a big heatsink, so I guess the one with the power cord is the way to go.
 
RedHazzard said:
Why wouldn't you need a 1-2 watt green laser. It would be fun to walk around with at night and point at the sky (until someone sees you out their window and over reacts and calls the cops). But the batteries would probably die fast and you would need a big heatsink, so I guess the one with the power cord is the way to go.
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Haha yeah bad, I still am investigating about the heatsinks and battery and all that, for heatsink I might use a TECK cool and for the battery I might use a 36650 in parellel, but that is far away I still need to research
 
No, they burn hole into black garbage bags, burns electric tape from a distance of 4cm or so.
I could make a video if you want me to :)
 
Why not make a 1W 638nm laser instead? They project a dot much further than 445nm lasers(based on observations) and you could make one for about $150. The downside is they aren't as visibly bright as a 532nm but its still powerful enough to light up objects well over a mile away.
 
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You may want to edit your post and combine them- its not good to double post-

A JAD kit for an M-140 Kasio 445 nm diode would be way cheaper and not illegal to import- see DTR for the diode and SurvivalLasers for the kit- prolly 70% cheaper than going with green.
Other good sources of kits is both jayrob and Flaminpyro et al.
AND.. getting items is almost always better from a forum vet member than elsewhere IMHO.
also try the serch for questions before you ask in a thread.. like LPM and JAD..

good luck m8

Len
 
I don;t know that an M140 would be a good spotting diode. His goal appears to be to light something up at a distance and 445nm light isn't the best for that. This is why I suggested a 638nm. A Mitsubishi 500mw diode pushed to about 1.5A would give you about 1W or 638nm and I think it would be much better for this purpose.

You could always grab a JAD kit from Yobresal and toss in an M140 or a Mitsubishi(DTR has both) and you would have a very good laser.
 
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445nm! umm, I am looking for something very visible to our eye.

and sorry for the double post. (just getting the hang of it)
 
ApexProxy said:
I don;t know that an M140 would be a good spotting diode. His goal appears to be to light something up at a distance and 445nm light isn't the best for that. This is why I suggested a 638nm. A Mitsubishi 500mw diode pushed to about 1.5A would give you about 1W or 638nm and I think it would be much better for this purpose.

You could always grab a JAD kit from Yobresal and toss in an M140 or a Mitsubishi(DTR has both) and you would have a very good laser.
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I think you just solved my problem! :) like the sound of the 638nm. Only have build a <300mW one using a Mitsubishi diode and the inferno driver from eBay.

Could you please post the links for the diode an the driver for the 638nm, or if you have any for sale, I would buy it
 
Yobresal's JAD kit has a driver set to 1.2A included or you could grab a 1.5A X-Drive from Clif at cajunlasers. Here are links to both in order:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/1...w-available-50-jad-kit-76555.html#post1102442
1.5 amp X-Drive V6 - $19.99 : Cajunlasers Store

1.5A is pushing the diode a little hard so you could go lower if you want but I find that current to be stable enough on my diode and I have about two hours of runtime on it so far.

EDIT: Also, if you decide on the JAD kit from Yobresal you may want to ask about getting a 660nm AR lens instead of the 445nm AR. I don't know for sure if he will have some but its worth a try.
 
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sweet thanks for the links. Appreciate it :)
Is there a driver for a 500mW 638nm that runs of a single 18650?
Is there different type of 500mW 638nm diodes?
 
The Mitsubishi is the only 500mW diode i know of. You could use a boost driver to run it off a single battery. My personal preference is to use bucking drivers like the X-Drive though. Bucking drivers are super efficient and create so little heat they rarely require heatsinking and thus don't waste power.
 
ok sweet, I will probably get it then. Could I use 2 CBR123A for the X driver?
 
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