Yeah, i find i'm not to great at explaining things unless i have the part in hand to present aswell. the glue job does mean that i will not be able to easily disassemble the laser in the event of a failure but i'm o.k. with that. The reflector and bulb are the only things from the flashlight that were not used. the driver sits flat one the black plastic socket the the orginal bulb plugged into, the same piece of plastic that the reflector was resting on. Then the laser module with diode installed and connected by power wires is glued in on top of the driver, as close as possible so that as little of the module sticks out of the flashlight as possible.
now its just a matter of installing the driver as space savingly as posibble. I found that i could lay them down to save space. Place the driver flat on a table, then place the flashlight standing on its tail, this is the type of orientation i'm taking about. Rather than using the driver on edge with the diode. This does mean i had to use small wires to jump the contacts from the driver to the diode.
Then while holding the diode installed in the top half of the module all soldered up to the driver(no bottom half of module for obvious space reasons) i applied some quick setting epoxy in the head to secure the driver and module. Once it set and the module nicely centered i drilled a hole on the plastic lens that came with the flashlight to allow the module to pass thru, and i put some black paint on it to dress it up before reassembling the flashlight completely. that way you can't look back thru the clear plastic and see my glue job
To get a solid eletrical connection i dismanteled the flashlights head an removed the back plastic peice containing the sockets where the bulb's leads plug into. This way i could solder wires to them, ensuring a solid connection and not risking melting plastic on the head.
Once the plastic piece is reinserted with its wires, i reattached the head of the flashlight(aluminun piece) and super glued it in place. I cleaned the threads on the battery barrel and placed a drop of glue on them. I quickly screwed on the head till it just barely covered up the o-ring on the battery barrel. This way the head is unscrewed as far as it will safely go and provide the most room possible inside the head.
I bought the Nite Ize IQ switch and removed the internal circuit so that it is just a momentary switch. Nite Ize makes a switch already like this but it looks different than the IQ switch. I liked the look of the IQ switch better and the extra work was well worth it in my opinion.
Jayrobs mod uses a heatsink and a special spacer to hold the driver in the battery barrel. This leaves less room and thus needs to be powered off a lithium batt. i didn't want to go out and buy a matching batt and charger for this build so i had to make sure everything fit in the head so the flashlight could run off of 2 standard AA's.
The maglites i made are awesome, and get pretty regular use. I built them without heatsinks as space was very tight in the head and i never use lasers continuosly, so i don't feel bad about not having them for these builds. If your thinking about building a Minimag laser, go for it, they're very nice a compact when completed and a matching set never hurts