Don't be careless with an open can diode.

[Richie89]

Well I was debating on posting this because of a stupid mistake I made. I have even been warned about this from many of you, I kept taking the lens off my relatively new mits build knowing full and well that dust particles can fall into an open can diode, so I took it off again earlier and all the sudden it went dim and dropped nearly 90% output and never recovered. Definitely irreversible damage to diode
Sucks that I would make such a ignorant mistake, at least it's a cheap diode. Gives me an excuse to just start another project right? Maybe I won't be so careless next time. I may do another blue, not sure. Sorry guys, be easy on me. Lol!

 

[Deleted member 13229]

I'm familiar with this annoying effect. I've probably killed more open can diodes than all others combined. They die from seemingly anything...if they aren't killed from the extraction/module pressing process then they tend to die any time the module lens is pulled off. Luckily they are way cheaper than they used to be, because when I started here the only known source were 20x DVD burners that ran from $30 - $50 and of course required extraction. Now you can buy a ten pack of new diodes for less than that cost. If you have some free time go find some of the first threads on the open can diodes (LOC) because at that time, 300mW in a handheld was considered phenomenal. Nowadays 7W is just another day at the office...

 

[RedCowboy]

Don't feel alone, we have all done it or will do it in time.

This is one reason I want to work with the GBalls intact on the NUBM diodes.

The NUBM06 will actually function through a small 6X cyl pair from LSP and our group buys, it's not quite as tight as replacing the GBall with a G2 but it's not bad at all.

My NUBM07's never seem to last as long once I remove the Gballs, but I have some open can 660nm diodes that have lasted for years.

Also I only use exterior springs on open can diodes.

 

[Dutch67]

I recently built an 07E laser and I am so scared to take the lens out and put a different lens in Guess I'll just have to stick with a 3ele until I can use a clean room

 

[RedCowboy]

Low humidity would be good and let it be at room temp to avoid a moisture transfer of any kind, other than that you have already exposed it so as long as your new lens is clean I would change it.

The first one I killed was running a home made zoon lens and it was exposed to air of different humidity and during it being hot and cold, my 2nd 07 is still working and had many lens changes, I was just saying I would like to try and use them with the GBall intact somehow.

 

[Deleted member 46822]

Of all torture you put these diodes through its too funny that a bit moisture does it in

 

[Richie89]

I'm familiar with this annoying effect. I've probably killed more open can diodes than all others combined. They die from seemingly anything...if they aren't killed from the extraction/module pressing process then they tend to die any time the module lens is pulled off. Luckily they are way cheaper than they used to be, because when I started here the only known source were 20x DVD burners that ran from $30 - $50 and of course required extraction. Now you can buy a ten pack of new diodes for less than that cost. If you have some free time go find some of the first threads on the open can diodes (LOC) because at that time, 300mW in a handheld was considered phenomenal. Nowadays 7W is just another day at the office...

Don't feel alone, we have all done it or will do it in time.

This is one reason I want to work with the GBalls intact on the NUBM diodes.

The NUBM06 will actually function through a small 6X cyl pair from LSP and our group buys, it's not quite as tight as replacing the GBall with a G2 but it's not bad at all.

My NUBM07's never seem to last as long once I remove the Gballs, but I have some open can 660nm diodes that have lasted for years.

Also I only use exterior springs on open can diodes.

I recently built an 07E laser and I am so scared to take the lens out and put a different lens in Guess I'll just have to stick with a 3ele until I can use a clean room

Styro- I'll definitely check that out yeah I figured I wasn't the only one to have this problem, I imagine I'll end up killing meant more in the future. Sad part is that I knew it was gonna happen soon.

Redcowboy- yeah exterior springs is a good idea I learning the hard way how fragile open cans are lol.

Lildutchboy- oh yeah I would be scared too those 07he's aren't cheap. I was actually wanting to do a 07e within the next few months but I needed to work with some cheap ones first

Thanks guys for the input

 

[Richie89]

Low humidity would be good and let it be at room temp to avoid a moisture transfer of any kind, other than that you have already exposed it so as long as your new lens is clean I would change it.

The first one I killed was running a home made zoon lens and it was exposed to air of different humidity and during it being hot and cold, my 2nd 07 is still working and had many lens changes, I was just saying I would like to try and use them with the GBall intact somehow.

I apologize about my post, I didn't quote you guys right. I haven't been on in a while I almost forgot how to post lol. I also totally forgot about humidity, that actually might have been the cause of my diode failure instead of dust, damn temperamental open cans!

 

[alessnilsen]

They're very fragile, if the spring that holds the lens assembly slips and touch the die or the small human hair like wires then the LD is destroyed!

I killed so many LPC's that I lost the count, but I don't remember if I already killed one by dust coming in contact with the LD interior, the red 250mW LASER I have had a LPC-815 on it, and I've removed/re-assembled the lens so many times without any damage, I only changed it to a closed can because I was afraid of the lens spring destroying the LD.

 

[Richie89]

They're very fragile, if the spring that holds the lens assembly slips and touch the die or the small human hair like wires then the LD is destroyed!

I killed so many LPC's that I lost the count, but I don't remember if I already killed one by dust coming in contact with the LD interior, the red 250mW LASER I have had a LPC-815 on it, and I've removed/re-assembled the lens so many times without any damage, I only changed it to a closed can because I was afraid of the lens spring destroying the LD.

Dang, yeah I'm guessing more than likely as careful as I can be in the future I'm probably going to fry another unintentionally lol. I'm actually starting to question if it was a dust particle or something else, so many variables come into play with those type diodes. Heck I probably looked at it wrong :thinking:

 

[Alaskan]

Did that with a NUBM44, but not from having the can off, from what must have been dust on the window which got into the module when changing lenses, destroying the window. I have since decanned the diode, so far it hasn't failed.

 

[Pman]

To my knowledge this has never happened to me. The only thing I can come up with is I'm just really careful about it and its unusual for me to pull a lens other than I initially use a G2 to measure output and then switch to whatever lens is going to stay with the build. I do look carefully at the diode in module and use those cans of air from a distance of maybe 3-6" away from it at least once before installing the inspected lens in. I mentioned the canned air once and someone said it's not just air like it was really dirty or something.
Now I know that there's a propellant and sometimes an additive to make it btiter or something so huffing is discouraged but I'm not spraying the can upside down and I can detect nothing coming out when sprayed properly. If I spray it on my hand there's no residue.
By the way, does this seem a bit obvious to anyone else?:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L3M70C/ref=s9_topr_hm_awbw_b3Htt5X_g263_i4
I would like to know why there's any need to remove the lens in the first place. I can't think of any reason other than looking at the raw pattern to see if anything is on the window.
On a different note I do have an 07E I haven't used yet and because I bought it seperate it has the g-ball on it. I've never had to remove a can before but my understanding is on that diode it should be pretty easy right? I don't have a can removal tool. I had asked J to remove it but still send it when I ordered but he apparently didn't read the message I left with the order. Screwing up the can removal would be my biggest opportunity to have the issue this thread is about.
Has anyone used both that lens and a standard G or 3 element with the g-ball still on? I figure Red or Alaskan has. Any reason to do it?

 

[Deleted member 46822]

After getting my SciFi de canned and getting a new lease on its life I think its time to stop the lens changing play from the initial excitement. Way to much dust and cat hairs.
I'll stay with the G2 type

 

[Richie89]

Did that with a NUBM44, but not from having the can off, from what must have been dust on the window which got into the module when changing lenses, destroying the window. I have since decanned the diode, so far it hasn't failed.

That is some good news there.

To my knowledge this has never happened to me. The only thing I can come up with is I'm just really careful about it and its unusual for me to pull a lens other than I initially use a G2 to measure output and then switch to whatever lens is going to stay with the build. I do look carefully at the diode in module and use those cans of air from a distance of maybe 3-6" away from it at least once before installing the inspected lens in. I mentioned the canned air once and someone said it's not just air like it was really dirty or something.
Now I know that there's a propellant and sometimes an additive to make it btiter or something so huffing is discouraged but I'm not spraying the can upside down and I can detect nothing coming out when sprayed properly. If I spray it on my hand there's no residue.
By the way, does this seem a bit obvious to anyone else?:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L3M70C/ref=s9_topr_hm_awbw_b3Htt5X_g263_i4
I would like to know why there's any need to remove the lens in the first place. I can't think of any reason other than looking at the raw pattern to see if anything is on the window.
On a different note I do have an 07E I haven't used yet and because I bought it seperate it has the g-ball on it. I've never had to remove a can before but my understanding is on that diode it should be pretty easy right? I don't have a can removal tool. I had asked J to remove it but still send it when I ordered but he apparently didn't read the message I left with the order. Screwing up the can removal would be my biggest opportunity to have the issue this thread is about.
Has anyone used both that lens and a standard G or 3 element with the g-ball still on? I figure Red or Alaskan has. Any reason to do it?

Good idea, the compressed air is a much better idea. I blow on it, guess that's bad since your breath has moisture in it I just wish I knew exactly what I did to make sure it doesn't happen again.

 

[Richie89]

After getting my SciFi de canned and getting a new lease on its life I think its time to stop the lens changing play from the initial excitement. Way to much dust and cat hairs.
I'll stay with the G2 type

You definitely can't go wrong with G2.