NUBM08E the new 9-10 watter

[lasertechgear]

I will have some adjustable output drivers in a couple days. They are green board prototypes but they have a new chip that's very efficient. The potentiometer is wired remotely and max output can hit 6 amps.

Did you order the remote pot from Vlad along w/ the drivers or are you getting your own?

I'm actually waiting for the rest of the prototypes he had left to come in as well. I'm thinking of doing an up/down digipot. That way I can set the 64 to 256 steps however I want.. like 7 or 8 increments of 1W or 256 increments of 31.25mw lol.. Plus the digipots are more reliable and having LED/OLED screens on your laser is even more ***

By the way.. Vlad says these things have about 10% headroom.. so you can expect 6.6A or more out of these things.

I've been running my NUBM05Ts to 6A without issue so when I get Vlad's drivers in I'm ABSOLUTELY going to be pushing them to 6.6A to see what kind of power we can get.. I have 20 something NUBM05Ts left since the NUMB08E stole everyone's attention so I have plenty for testing... ahem or for sale..

 

[ABarnett]

Heatsinking is recommended for 3amps and up. They run a lot cooler than other drivers. The external pot is a really nice feature and works perfectly. Also it's very easy to setup. Just remove the CW jumper and connect the 3x leads to the pot. I'm going to be running all of mine off an autopot with a microprocessor.
I'm sure they can go over 6 amps. There is always a lot more current on deck past the fold back point.

 

[lasertechgear]

Heatsinking is recommended for 3amps and up. They run a lot cooler than other drivers. The external pot is a really nice feature and works perfectly. Also it's very easy to setup. Just remove the CW jumper and connect the 3x leads to the pot. I'm going to be running all of mine off an autopot with a microprocessor.
I'm sure they can go over 6 amps. There is always a lot more current on deck past the fold back point.

Ahhh you got some already? noice. Would you say that you like it better than his BlackBuck or is it pretty much the same good quality?

Also, did you ever get the power figures on your 47-A1? And since when did Nichia start naming their diodes like US military firearms?

Also, I still have that NUBM07E.. but the NUGM01T is in a 12mm full copper module already (but still available if interested). If you're interested I'll drop the pricing for ya over my previous quote... 5x NUBM05Ts for $300.

 

[ABarnett]

I got some a couple weeks ago. They are just the green proto boards, but they work perfectly. I also really like the external adjustment. It has a newer chip than the BB6 and runs nice stable as hell and warms up pretty slow. The quality is the best.

 

[Atomicrox]

Heatsinking is recommended for 3amps and up. They run a lot cooler than other drivers. The external pot is a really nice feature and works perfectly. Also it's very easy to setup. Just remove the CW jumper and connect the 3x leads to the pot. I'm going to be running all of mine off an autopot with a microprocessor.
I'm sure they can go over 6 amps. There is always a lot more current on deck past the fold back point.

Are you selling those? How do I buy one?

 

[lasertechgear]

I got the last of x-wossee's prototype drivers in and you are right, they are amazeballs. Every single one that I've tested has produced a max output of 8A! I've been running these at no less than 5.2A with my NUBM05Ts and they are running like friggin CHAMPS. I'm going to be installing a NUBM05T module into a thermo cooled copper lab'ish setup that I made to see how much current we can run through this diode to see what kind of power output it'll produce.

Now I just need to find the right digipot and neato buttons to install next to an ammeter.

 

[VirtueViolater]

What kind of power readings are you getting at 5.2amps?
Danny

 

[ABarnett]

Have you tried attaching a regular 10k pot yet? They work really well. Just be careful when soldering to those small solder points for the pot. They solder points and traces on these green board prototypes are more delicate than his production drivers like the black buck six.
Have you seen the new OLED controllers he's making? They look really cool. He said they will be around $100. Those should make for some nice builds for sure.
Im really interested to see what kind of peak power your able to get from the NUBM05T. I'm sure you can get over 10 watts if you can get it cold enough and have your driver set perfectly. I to built a labby using a really large heatsink and heavy duty TE cooler. Im pretty sure I can maintain over ten watts stable with a NUBM44 or 47.

 

[RedCowboy]

10 watts stable with a TEC, I want to see that.

I think you will need more than a TEC pad and a fan, maybe a small refrigeration unit to circulate chilled coolant through a copper block mount.

 

[ABarnett]

It's also liquid cooled. I'll post some pics.

 

[DTR]

Planters over on PL was able to squeeze nearly 2W out of a 300mW rated Mitsu 638nm diode by cryo cooling it. 10W sustainted is probably achievable with the same method but not sure how hard to implement over a long period as in that test he had to keep pouring in more coolant every few minutes. Not sure what you can get down to with just TEC cooling but that would probably be a less complicated setup. Either way it would be a great experiment. There would be very noticeable shift toward UV giving a little difference in perceived brightness. Not sure how far a shift you would see but say it was 10nm, you get 10W output and assuming this tool is fairly accurate here is the perceived comparison in brightness between 6W 450nm and 10W 440nm.
Relative Laser Dot Brightness Calculator: (440nm 10000mw) vs. (450nm 6000mw)

Looks about a 25% increase in overall brightness and a color more reminiscent to the old A130's with a strong hint of violet to the color.

On another note I always wanted to get one of these to play with for cooling diodes on the fly.
http://www.eraymedical.com/brcrlini...googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=70740102825

But they are not supposed to be sold without a medical license but you can get them on ebay and other places. Looks like getting them filled is the hard part.

 

[ABarnett]

I like that tool. It's fun to see how the different wavelengths compare to each other. I'm sure it's fairly accurate. It's most likely based off of an old scientific equation.
This is how I'm planning to make a stable over ten wart setup. First I'm using the front half of DTR's 35mm copper module. I don't want excessive mass so that should work well. I'm going to drill a few holes through it so I can can use some bolts to clamp it all together. I'll place the 35mm module front half on the piece of copper shown, then place that on the TE cooler using thermal grease. This assembly will be mounted on a coil of flat copper tubing that I've soldered another of the copper squares to.
Then I'm going to attach coolant lines to the copper coils and run them to the heat exchanger pictured. I'm going to use a small 12v pump to circulate the cooland.
Ones everything is connected then I'll fill it with some type of anti freeze coolant so that it doesn't freeze up. Not sure what I want to use yet. Also I may incorporate a tank resovoir.
Then I'll place some salt water in the freezer and place the heat exchanger in the the freeing cold salt water.
I'm also going to insulate the diode so it isn't warmed by the surrounding air.
I think this should be enough to keep it a constant cold temp. I'm only using the TEC to try to get that extra little bit of coldness. I hit 10.39 with the diode at freezer temp but the key is to move the heat from the diode as quick as possible.

 

[RedCowboy]

You could use a dry ice chamber with your copper lines spiraled inside it, the chamber vented of course, to chill an antifreeze that you pump through your lines.

 

[Skans]

You could use a dry ice chamber with your copper lines spiraled inside it, the chamber vented of course, to chill an antifreeze that you pump through your lines.

Why not just come up with a CO2 cooled system. If you can make a slow release valve where compressed CO2 (from pellet gun cartridges) can be forced through the lines, I would think this may be sufficient to cool down the heat sink.

 

[Roger O]

I guys, since we're exploring very high outputs with these diodes, does anyone know of a good adjustable current driver (not a lab power supply) than can be bought or made to raise the output gradually while measurements are taken?

 

[RedCowboy]

Nitrogen is used for auto/bike tires and off road rock crawler adjustable shock absorbers because the molecules are larger than oxygen and leak out slower, granted air is 78/21 but it is used none the less, so you should be able to get this tank or one like it filled for " automotive " purpose


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-sh...m3f61fcc422:m:mUcUt5WY68IID0qL0Gz8rkw&vxp=mtr

HERE

I don't know what's wrong with ebay, here's the search : Nitrogen shock refill filler recharge kit 600psi gauges, tanks, hoses, regulator


He says it's about 15 dollars to get filled at a welding supply shop for your automotive purposes.