Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

How to Register on LPF | LPF Donations

Need help building a flashlight

S

Soulero

0
Joined
May 22, 2013
Messages
156
Points
0
Alright, so I know exactly what kind of flashlight I want to make, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to pull it off without some help. Complete newb to building flashlights, but I do have a fair amount of experience building lasers.

Here's the host kit I'm going to use: DRY 3xCREE XM-L T6 3x18650 Torch Flashlight Host Kit_Torch Host_Torch Components_Electronics Wholesale online
3 of these LEDs: https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-leds-c-52_36/cree-xml2-bare-t5-5c1-tint-4000k-p-603.html
EDIT: Getting this driver instead: http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1349

Is there a better option than getting bare LEDs to use with this kit? I have some soldering skills, but my solder gun is huge and extremely powerful (like 140W...) so I'm planning on picking up a smaller, cooler one on Amazon.
 
Last edited:





You are planning on ordering the bare emitters, so you will need an aluminium or better yet copper base pad to put them on. Doing this requires the use of solder paste and some skill/ luck with reflowing...;)

Have a look here it might give you some ideas: http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/pics-added-sipik-98-4-amp-flashlight-mod-82310.html


Cant give you much advice about the driver suffice to say that there are drivers out there designed specifically for multiple emitters. I would try those first before attempting to put 3 drivers in to the host. Its probably doable if there is enough room though. :beer:

Edit: If you used 3 drivers would you rewire the battery holder, so that you have one battery per emitter?
 
Last edited:
BShanahan14rulz said:
Group buy for updated DRY 3*XML - Maximum price you'll consider | BudgetLightForum.com

I have a DRY, preloaded with 3x T6 neutrals and the turbo driver (L-M-H-DD). Great buy for the price!
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you for the link!! I think I'll get this driver: NEW Hi current 3xT6 Torch Circuit DRY Driver with Step-Down_Torch Circuit_Torch Components_Electronics Wholesale online
Would you recommend buying the bare LEDs or is there a better option? It needs to be XM-L2's though, I don't want standard XM-L's. I'm probably going to have to pick up a smaller soldering iron as well :P
 
If ya gotta have XM-L2, ya gotta buy some LEDs. The links you posted earlier, you can also get MCPCBs from that store. It makes it easier to mount the LEDs to the heatsink and make electrical connections.

First though, you may want to watch a few videos about reflowing LEDs, or soldering SMD components. It's not hard, but I know I wouldn't want to fry a top o the line LED, even if it was only $5. Main concern is, if your heatsource isn't powerful enough, it won't heat up the MCPCB fast enough and you may burn the LED waiting for the solder to flow.
 
BShanahan14rulz said:
If ya gotta have XM-L2, ya gotta buy some LEDs. The links you posted earlier, you can also get MCPCBs from that store. It makes it easier to mount the LEDs to the heatsink and make electrical connections.

First though, you may want to watch a few videos about reflowing LEDs, or soldering SMD components. It's not hard, but I know I wouldn't want to fry a top o the line LED, even if it was only $5. Main concern is, if your heatsource isn't powerful enough, it won't heat up the MCPCB fast enough and you may burn the LED waiting for the solder to flow.
Click to expand...

What wattage would you recommend for it? I found this 80W on Amazon for $25, do you think it would work fine? Weller 80 Watt Soldering Iron - Amazon.com
The one I have now will probably burn up the diode; it's like 140 or 160W
 
Soulero said:
What wattage would you recommend for it? I found this 80W on Amazon for $25, do you think it would work fine? Weller 80 Watt Soldering Iron - Amazon.com
The one I have now will probably burn up the diode; it's like 140 or 160W
Click to expand...

As I understand it, that will not do what you need when it comes to the bare LEDs. You need a reflow station or a decent toaster oven and a bit of luck.
 
Last edited:
Or you could have a look in the thread I linked earlier, for some ideas on how I reflowed cheaply...:whistle:
 
Grainde: nice post :-) I'd been out of the loop, but when you posted it, you got me researching gasoline ;-) And James is right: requires a decent amount of luck, esp. when first reflowing.

https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59 < here's soem ideas for reflowing on the cheap. Skillet method seems like it would be the easiest, and if you use solder paste, you can easily see when it flows. Give it another second or two to make sure it's all happy, and then the hard part (for me, at least), remove from heat without jostling the emitter off of the molten solder. I try to just remove heat and let the solder solidify before moving it to a place to cool to comfortable temperature.
 
fwiw, we'll have LEDs pre-reflowed for sale soon.

They won't be hand soldered, but reflowed on a proper SMT line. :beer:
 
csshih said:
fwiw, we'll have LEDs pre-reflowed for sale soon.

They won't be hand soldered, but reflowed on a proper SMT line. :beer:
Click to expand...

Great! I'll wait for those before frying a bunch of top of the line LEDs :)
 
This is a bit of a necropost.

Does anyone know, just approximately, the diameter heatsink this host would take?
 
I can measure mine tonight if nobody replys by end of day. Only have a tape measure, so a rough measurement will have to do :-P

Curious, do you have guts to the light? With the DD turbo driver, it's purty dern'd bright, even with the neutral white first gen. xm-l
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top