sightfx
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Just wait Jay. I want to try and get a 2 motor spiro and RF remote in there next lol. All I have to do is ask myself what would Rog do?
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
FS: Full Colour Driver Extension for the White Fusion kit
- Thread starter FireMyLaser
- Start date
jayrob
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Man can you fit anything else in there?! :crackup:
sightfx
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That receiver board should fit under the kit where there is still .3” of empty space where the heat sinks are and .65” under the sled. There really aren’t any components on the receiver that come up too high accept one area where the cap is and that looks like it will fit under the sled portion of the kit where there is more room.
Edit: By under the kit I mean flat and next to the driver. Looking at the picture it would be behind the Kit.
The spiro will have to go inside the sled itself. The motors will be the tiny tail motors found in micro helicopters. Speed control maybe tricky with these tiny motors and light load so I am hoping to find a perfect single speed and use the speed adjustment from the laser driver to control the effect. I have some other ideas for motor speed control but they will take a while to proto.
Edit: By under the kit I mean flat and next to the driver. Looking at the picture it would be behind the Kit.
The spiro will have to go inside the sled itself. The motors will be the tiny tail motors found in micro helicopters. Speed control maybe tricky with these tiny motors and light load so I am hoping to find a perfect single speed and use the speed adjustment from the laser driver to control the effect. I have some other ideas for motor speed control but they will take a while to proto.
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jayrob
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You get a spiro to fit inside the sled and I'm sure even rog8811 would be impressed!
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Hey FireMyLaser, I got your pm.
With some projects at work and at home, I won't have time to work on this one until the new year. I'm DEFINITELY still interested, can't wait to get to work on it, but there's just no way until at least January. I also still can't decide if I want low power or high, so when I get it figured out and am ready to start, I'll let you know.
It seems like you have plenty of people in line, so you can just move me back in the line until I'm ready to get going on it. If you run out of orders to fill for other people, let me know, but I don't think that's going to be a problem with such a great product.
With some projects at work and at home, I won't have time to work on this one until the new year. I'm DEFINITELY still interested, can't wait to get to work on it, but there's just no way until at least January. I also still can't decide if I want low power or high, so when I get it figured out and am ready to start, I'll let you know.
It seems like you have plenty of people in line, so you can just move me back in the line until I'm ready to get going on it. If you run out of orders to fill for other people, let me know, but I don't think that's going to be a problem with such a great product.
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It's ok, I keep you on the list as interested.
I think you should go for a phr + loc + 30-50mW green module, and choose the highest safe current for each, and turn down the pots to the power you want.
Then at any time you can just choose to crank it up to full power for showing-off.
I think you should go for a phr + loc + 30-50mW green module, and choose the highest safe current for each, and turn down the pots to the power you want.
Then at any time you can just choose to crank it up to full power for showing-off.
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If you have a 50mW green module, how low in power will it run reliably? Will it run well all the way down to a few mW, or does the output become unstable? Seems like it should work fine, but has anybody tried it?
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That is very possible. Unfortunately I don't have any green module to experiment with... Maybe Dave or sightfix can test if for you? :angel:
Or maybe someone will finish the work on the directly injected green diodes already grr!
Or maybe someone will finish the work on the directly injected green diodes already grr!
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We're workin on it, we're workin on it, be patient, LOL. Greens have been made now, but only just a couple, and not commercialized by any stretch of the imagination.
But yeah, I would think that turning a module down to lower power would be fine, and shouldn't have any stability issues. The diodes are definitely fine, I just want to double confirm about the DPSS module.
sightfx
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The Green DPSS modules I've worked with are all different. I've worked with about 20 or so harvested from DX pens.
Some start out nice and dim and move up the scale nice and smooth and some hop there way up making leaps of intensity the whole way. It's all luck of the draw so I get enough to cherry pick them. Smooth ones I use for modulation and hoppers go back to being pointers.
I have 5 O-Like 50mW modules that should be here any time. I will let you know how the batch turns out.
Some start out nice and dim and move up the scale nice and smooth and some hop there way up making leaps of intensity the whole way. It's all luck of the draw so I get enough to cherry pick them. Smooth ones I use for modulation and hoppers go back to being pointers.
I have 5 O-Like 50mW modules that should be here any time. I will let you know how the batch turns out.
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i must have one! PM'd
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You're on the list, thanks.
A small update: I got the parts to make all the drivers on the list now, but I'm busy with the drivers exam right now, so I may not get any work done here until I pass...
A small update: I got the parts to make all the drivers on the list now, but I'm busy with the drivers exam right now, so I may not get any work done here until I pass...
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FML, can you update my kit to these specs R391 G449 V350
any ideas on how this kit could be made more efficient, I saw you mentioning earlier about the LM317 putting out alot of heat and would like to avoid this.
From my visual understanding of the driver, your voltage goes into the optocouplers unregulated, the optocouplers control the on/off of the DDL circuit as well as feedback for the LM317.
From the optocouplers the voltage is regulated via the 4 small voltage regulators, 1 which goes to bigClive's chip, the other 3 regulate to the DDL drivers.
bigClives chip provides feedback for the on/off/regulation of the optocouplers.
Is there a way to escape the inefficiency of the DDL circuit?
any ideas on how this kit could be made more efficient, I saw you mentioning earlier about the LM317 putting out alot of heat and would like to avoid this.
From my visual understanding of the driver, your voltage goes into the optocouplers unregulated, the optocouplers control the on/off of the DDL circuit as well as feedback for the LM317.
From the optocouplers the voltage is regulated via the 4 small voltage regulators, 1 which goes to bigClive's chip, the other 3 regulate to the DDL drivers.
bigClives chip provides feedback for the on/off/regulation of the optocouplers.
Is there a way to escape the inefficiency of the DDL circuit?
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a boost circuit that controlled voltage and current could be used to increase the input range of the driver, but the mosfets are still the biggest source of current loss.
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I have a whole new driver in mind that is a very efficient boost type, but all parts are SMD which I'd like to avoid. I don't see the need to change this driver, it works great and the demand isn't very big... If it grows I might consider making the v2.
