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Old 11-26-2009, 12:29 AM #1
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Default RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

What you'll need:
- 1x Full Colour Driver Extension for the White Fusion kit (duh)
- 1x White Fusion Kit or other rgb/v set-up
- 1x 9-12V battery or power supply capable of the total load current
- fuse in series with your power source, capable of the total load current (optional)
- 1x on-off power switch capable of the total load current
- 2x momentary push buttons (program and option button)
- 3x TO220 insulation pads and bushings
- 3x size M3 nuts and bolts for the regulators
- ~2m wire
- shrink tube (optional)
- solder
- host

Driver overview:



1.
Measure the resistance of the sled with a DMM set to the conductivity setting (the one with a diode and buzzer symbol).

Between the green heat sink and sled: infinitive resistance (no buzzer)
Between the green heat sink and blu-ray heat sink: infinitive resistance (no buzzer)
Between the red heat sink and sled: 0 resistance (buzzer)
Between the blu-ray heat sink and sled: 0 resistance (buzzer)

If you find any errors in these measurements make sure to fix it before proceeding. If everything is ok you can install the laser modules in the heat sinks (beware of the optical polarization), then repeat the testing just to be safe. The new white fusion kits seem to have a the red and blu heat sinks totally isolated from the sled and each other (i.e. infinitive resistance). Ignore this, it is not a problem. I advise to connect the case pin on the blu-ray diode to the negative pin.


2.
If you use the 695mA setting on the green laser, I highly recommend connecting two 1N4001 diodes in series with the module. Put the diodes on about half an inch length of wire from the module or directly on the output-terminals of the driver. This will make the forward voltage of the green module match the red and blue/violet laser, and will take some of the heat off of the driver.
Collect 12 pieces of wire (in different colours if you can) in 15-20 cm length and tin the ends.


Here are the location of the wire terminals. Solder with great care!

PWR + : Positive terminal from the battery
PWR - (GND) : Negative terminal from the battery

PR-B : Program button
PR-B (GND) : Program button

OP-B : Option button
OP-B (GND) : Option button

RLD + : Red laser diode positive pin
RLD - (GND) : Red laser diode negative pin

GLD + : Green laser diode positive pin
GLD - (GND) : laser diode negative pin

VLD + : Blue/violet laser diode positive pin
VLD - (GND) : Blue/violet laser diode negative pin

Here are all the wires in place:


Flipped over and the wire pairs twisted together:


Wire ID again, for those who ordered the driver with the wires installed:



3.
Lay out the driver, White Fusion kit, battery, buttons, and any another pieces you plan to use in your build, see how long the wires need to be, and just to see how it all fits together so you get a clear image in your head.

Keep in mind that:
Between the positive power wire and the positive battery terminal, you need to have an >1.5A on-off power switch.


If you choose to use an external power supply, make sure it is properly regulated with low ripple and 9-12 DC.

The regulators need to be heat sinked and electrically isolated from each other and ground, or any metal.

Make sure no metal is touching the driver anywhere.

The original green laser driver need to be removed.

Can you adjust your optical alignment
easily with your set-up?

Ones you have it all figured out you can solder the wires to the battery terminals, power switch, buttons, and laser diodes, in that order. You shouldn't worry about any charge left in the driver, it has inbuilt bleeding resistors, but you can short the wires briefly before soldering the diodes just to be safe. And remember, the green laser is case positive.


4.
Double check everything.


5.
At this point you may put everything in your box, case, or whatever... and power it up for the first time. The regulators need to be heat sinked at all times when power is applied! Make sure that the power switch is off, then connect your batteries/power supply, then flip the switch.

You will now see that the red and violet lasers are glowing dim, the green might not glow at all (we get back to this later). This is idle lazing to make the blanking a little easier on the diodes.
Power off.


6.
Turn the potentiometers on the driver all the way counter clockwise, they are 25 turn...


7.
Take a look at this picture:


Now get a conductor (a resistor lead or similar)


Here you see it connected between +5V and red, this will activate the driver's red channel.
Leave it in and power it up again.
With the power on, turn the red laser's potentiometer clockwise till you get a good enough brightness to work with when you'll do the optical alignment (but not to bright! Concern your eyes!)

Repeat this for the green and blu.

Based on this, you can choose to modify your driver by adding 3 switches to make the standard 7-colour control. You can work both the IC and the 3 extra 7-colour switches independently totally safe. Just a neat little addition to your set-up.


8.
Make sure you turned off the power and get the IC:


Push it all the way down.


Done.



9.
When you power it up this time, you see that the drives does it's colour changing thing...
Press both the program and option button at the same time briefly.
Then press the program button 31 times to get to the white marker in the list of programs.


10.
Now you can do the optical alignment while you're at the white marker.


11.
When that's done it is time for a little more power!
While still at the white marker turn all the potentiometers all the way clockwise. Then turn down the potentiometers to match the least bright laser (probably the blu-ray) and fiddle around till you get a good white balance.


12.
Yay, done.


Trouble shooting.

You may notice that the green module doesn't fade as smooth as the red and violet, it may even mode hop. That is typical for a DPSS-laser, but it might be some room for improvements...

Go to the black marker in the list of programs.
You see the red and violet glowing dim, but does the green? If it does glow slightly, all you can do is go to the rainbow program, and try to lower or increase the green laser's current and see if it gets more stable at some point. If that doesn't help I'm afraid you can't do anything more to make it better. If it is real bad you might just get a new, more stable module, but I doubt it will come to that.

But lets say it doesn't glow dim while at the black marker: I included an extra resistor (120 ohm, 1W) with the driver, try connecting it in parallel with the other 120 ohm resistor that is already on the driver to make a 60 ohm 2W resistor like this:

Then power up again and see if it glows dim while at the black marker. Even if it doesn't, still go to the rainbow program and see if it has improved.

If it hasn't improved you might experiment with some other resistor values between 40 and 120 ohm, 2-3W is recommended, don't use wire wound resistors.

If it glows too bright (you only want it to start to laze) while at the black marker, you need a higher resistance - but if it still mode-shifts very bad at this point all you can do is get a new, more stable module.

If adding the extra resistor haven't done any improvements what-so-ever, but you think the green is pretty descent anyway, take it off again because all it does it eat extra power.


Modification. Highly recommended.
There is one spot on the driver where you can drill a hole for a screw to secure the driver to the bottom of your case:


I suggest a 3mm hole.

Be careful not to damage the lead outside of the yellow line and avoid any electrical contact with it.

When your hole is done you should use a spacer between the driver and the bottom of the case, long enough to clear the wires and components under the driver freely and bolt it down tight.


And if you so choose you can add three switches for the standard 7 colour control:


This shows how you connect it. But you should solder the wires under the board of course.

The switches can be either an on/off or momentary push buttons, whichever you prefer. When one of the switches is activated the corresponding channel will be activated. So if you go the the black marker in the list of programs, you will have the 7 colours available via the switches. But you can also use them while running any other program, and you'll see how the pattern will change and make new effects!


Good luck!


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Last edited by FireMyLaser; 06-26-2010 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:30 AM #2
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

List of programs:

1. Morph and hold with vibrant colours. (Hold delay adjustable in 3 second increments in 16 steps with the option button.)

2. Morph and hold with bright colours. (Hold delay adjustable in 3 second increments in 16 steps with the option button.)

3. Morph and hold with full spectrum colours. (Hold delay adjustable in 3 second increments in 16 steps with the option button.)

4. Red marker to help you find your way through the programs.

5. Sweep continually between vibrant colours.

6. Sweep continually between bright colours.

7. Sweep continually between full spectrum colours.

8. Green marker.

9. Indie dim with each colour "rambling" independently.

10. Indie dim pastels (all colours 25% min).

11. Blu marker.

12. Rainbow. Can be stopped and started on any colour using option button.

13. Rainbow continuous. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

14. Black marker.

FX routines below can only be accessed when unit is in FX mode.
To lock and unlock FX mode, hold both buttons in for about 15 seconds until the output changes from blu to either red (locked out) or green (unlocked).

15. Colour burst with vibrant colours. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

16. Colour burst with bright colours. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

17. Colour burst with full spectrum colours. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

18. Cyan marker.

19. Colour plasma lightning. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

20. White plasma lightning. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

21. Colour strobe. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

22. Windswept flame effect. (3 independent.) (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

23. Subtle flame effect. (3 independent.) (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

24. Rainbow trail. Fast cycle of primary colours to create a colourful trailing effect on fast moving reflective objects or water droplets. The colours cycle so quickly that the output appears to be static white. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

25. Jewel fountain. Similar to rainbow trail but with random vibrant colours, especially designed for fountains to make the droplets of water sparkle with random colours. Best used where the light is not directly viewed due to a shimmering effect. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

26. X-Fader. A standard cross fading effect between the red and blu channels. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

27. Peppers Ghost. An automated cross fade with hold delay adjustable in 16 3-second increments with the option button.

28. Juddermeister. A wild psychedelic effect which alternates rapidly between pairs of random colours. (Speed adjustable in 16 steps with the option button.)

29. Hazard. Specifically designed for LED hazard warning lights. This effect strobes alternately between the red and blu channel with 8 speed options in one style and 8 in another style.

30. Random fixed full colour. (Reselectable with option button.)

31. Random fixed vibrant colour. (Reselectable with option button.)

32. White marker.


You can press both buttons briefly at the same time at any time to get back to the first program.


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Last edited by FireMyLaser; 01-11-2010 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:44 AM #3
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

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Old 11-26-2009, 01:14 AM #4
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Lol wat? Thanks anyway
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:18 AM #5
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMyLaser View Post
Lol wat? Thanks anyway
Main Entry: awe·some
Pronunciation: \ˈȯ-səm\
Function: adjective
Date: 1598
1 : expressive of awe <awesome tribute>
2 a : inspiring awe <an awesome task> b : terrific, extraordinary <had an awesome time>
awe·some·ly adverb
awe·some·ness noun



Main Entry: 1in·car·nate
Pronunciation: \in-ˈkär-nət, -ˌnāt\
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English incarnat, from Late Latin incarnatus, past participle of incarnare to incarnate, from Latin in- + carn-, caro flesh — more at carnal
Date: 14th century
1 a : invested with bodily and especially human nature and form b : made manifest or comprehensible : embodied <a fiend incarnate>
2 : incarnadine <incarnate clover>


You give "awesome" a human body



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Old 11-26-2009, 01:20 AM #6
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

im totally lost, what this for?
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:30 AM #7
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Holy crap! I swear to Christ this RGV build looks more appealing every day! I'm so getting one of these. Question is should I make it a scanner...
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:50 AM #8
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Quote:
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im totally lost, what this for?
The absolute most awesome portable laser ever made.
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:11 AM #9
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Quote:
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im totally lost, what this for?
FS: White Fusion Laser Mixing Kit



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Old 11-27-2009, 05:12 AM #10
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

What, no questions? I hope none of you got intimidated by all this stuff.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:32 PM #11
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Quote:
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^Ditto^

Great tutorial! I would say it is detailed but not intimidating. What is intimidating is not having enough information to begin with. I think most people can understand and follow theses steps and I like that you remind them to double check themselves at critical points.

One thing I would suggest for anyone stuck with a Green module that hops around too much would be to error on the bright side. These types of beam effects look great regardless if the white is perfect or not. I also noticed that some greens need a bit of a warm up before they behave or even get back to the balanced output you first set them too. This is pretty typical so don’t rush to re-adjust it a second time. Battery power can also be low so also check that before re-adjusting anything.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:55 PM #12
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Quote:
The regulators need to be heat sinked and electrically isolated from each other and ground, or any metal
Does this mean each regulator must have its own individual heatsink?

I was just looking at SightFX's heatsink that appears to be one unit.
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:26 PM #13
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

No, it is optional. But if you choose to use one common heat sink you must use heat conducting insulting pads and bushings to isolate them. If you look closely you see that's what sightfx have done.
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:48 AM #14
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

I just got my driver today, looks great. I was just about to post asking for a tutorial and then I found this thread. Excellent job.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:02 AM #15
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Glad to hear! Let me know if it is anything you're unsure about.
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:47 PM #16
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Default Re: RGV Driver Installation Tutorial

Hey MisterWilling,

Are you going to put your 47?nm Blue in this build? If so hurry up I wana see it.
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