IgorT
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- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
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Ok, Batch #3 (or rather the fully decided and paid for part of it): Work is done, i'll write everyone individually with my notes on your laser.
Sam7: I was working on 13 lasers simultaneously, but not all are Batch #3. And not all are done yet (i finished the paid stuff first). But at least the drivers i have to make simultaneously, making them one by one would take forever in comparison...
I'll (ab)use this rare opportunity when most batch members are still reading the thread, to give a couple of "troubleshooting" or rather trouble-preventing tips:
1. First of all, the lens caps i include are there with a purpose. And that purpose is NOT making the lasers look better!
It's preventing the dust from landing on the lens. Now some of you will say that this is self evident, but you would be surprised how many times it happened, that i got a laser back for diode replacement, while all it needed was a new lens.. It came to me without a lens cap too, which doesn't make me happy..
Please try to remember this:
Laser ON = Lens cap OFF!
Laser OFF = Lens cap ON!
It's very simple, make it a habbit of putting the lens cap on every time you turn the laser OFF... I spend a lot of time making sure the optics are clean during packaging, and if you don't use the lens cap, it's all for nothing, and eventually the lens will get ruined to a point, where it could make you think there is something wrong with the laser.
I am so annoyed by dirt in the optics, that for me this is completelly automatic, i never put a laser down without replacing the lens cap first! But if you are new to lasers it may not seem important to you. At least not until it's too late.
2. The body of the laser has to be fully tightened for the electricity to flow through it. This means both the head and the tailcap have to be fully tightened. The electricity doesn't flow through the threads, like in some cheaper hosts, but through the ends of the body.
It doesn't happen often, but sometimes people tell me that the laser won't turn ON unless they fiddle with the tailcap, uncsrew it a little. If this should be happening to you, it means that the tailcap was not fully tightened in the first place (even if you thought it was), and when you unscrew it a little to create a contact, what you do is, you are basically looking for a part of the threads, where the anodisation is damaged, to conduct the electricity.
Well, the threads were never meant to do this. If you have to move the tailcap back and forth to find contact, you're probably not tightening it enough in the first place.
The ONLY other possibility is that the ends of the middle body section are dirty and don't conduct properly. This could theoretically happen, since the threads or o-rings are sometimes lubricated too much, or some particles could come in between (damaged anodisation from the threads, random garbage).
If the ends of the middle body section are clean (shiny aluminum, no anodisation) and the body is fully tightened (head AND tailcap), the body will conduct properly, and you'll have no problems.
Again, this is rare to happen, but when it does it can be annoying to the user. I should probably include it in the instructions and explain with some pictures...
Anyway, i went on some personal business, because it was a holiday yesterday, i'll write all the batch members individually as soon as i can. If not tonight, then over the weekend...
Sam7: I was working on 13 lasers simultaneously, but not all are Batch #3. And not all are done yet (i finished the paid stuff first). But at least the drivers i have to make simultaneously, making them one by one would take forever in comparison...
I'll (ab)use this rare opportunity when most batch members are still reading the thread, to give a couple of "troubleshooting" or rather trouble-preventing tips:
1. First of all, the lens caps i include are there with a purpose. And that purpose is NOT making the lasers look better!
It's preventing the dust from landing on the lens. Now some of you will say that this is self evident, but you would be surprised how many times it happened, that i got a laser back for diode replacement, while all it needed was a new lens.. It came to me without a lens cap too, which doesn't make me happy..
Please try to remember this:
Laser ON = Lens cap OFF!
Laser OFF = Lens cap ON!
It's very simple, make it a habbit of putting the lens cap on every time you turn the laser OFF... I spend a lot of time making sure the optics are clean during packaging, and if you don't use the lens cap, it's all for nothing, and eventually the lens will get ruined to a point, where it could make you think there is something wrong with the laser.
I am so annoyed by dirt in the optics, that for me this is completelly automatic, i never put a laser down without replacing the lens cap first! But if you are new to lasers it may not seem important to you. At least not until it's too late.
2. The body of the laser has to be fully tightened for the electricity to flow through it. This means both the head and the tailcap have to be fully tightened. The electricity doesn't flow through the threads, like in some cheaper hosts, but through the ends of the body.
It doesn't happen often, but sometimes people tell me that the laser won't turn ON unless they fiddle with the tailcap, uncsrew it a little. If this should be happening to you, it means that the tailcap was not fully tightened in the first place (even if you thought it was), and when you unscrew it a little to create a contact, what you do is, you are basically looking for a part of the threads, where the anodisation is damaged, to conduct the electricity.
Well, the threads were never meant to do this. If you have to move the tailcap back and forth to find contact, you're probably not tightening it enough in the first place.
The ONLY other possibility is that the ends of the middle body section are dirty and don't conduct properly. This could theoretically happen, since the threads or o-rings are sometimes lubricated too much, or some particles could come in between (damaged anodisation from the threads, random garbage).
If the ends of the middle body section are clean (shiny aluminum, no anodisation) and the body is fully tightened (head AND tailcap), the body will conduct properly, and you'll have no problems.
Again, this is rare to happen, but when it does it can be annoying to the user. I should probably include it in the instructions and explain with some pictures...
Anyway, i went on some personal business, because it was a holiday yesterday, i'll write all the batch members individually as soon as i can. If not tonight, then over the weekend...
?
