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FrozenGate by Avery

XML 9T6 "11000Lumen"

Kalsongen

Kalsongen

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The flashlight only draws 3Amp, can i build a new driver using the bigger model of the LM317 (is it LM358?) and get the Cree T6 Led to light at their full potential?
It looks like the Cree T6 Can handle 3A each and now they are running @ about 0.33A each.


-Victor
 





I heard, that a XML-T6 gives you ~925 Lumens according to a datasheet at 3Amps.
For 11k Lumens you would need also around 12 of this LED with each running at 3Amps@3.7 volts and this is impossible to handle. The heat from the LED and the driver will be way to much for a good handheld Flashlight.. including the battery lifetime. Waaay to much.

BTW.: At 0.33A you will get about 100 Lumens. 100 * 9 is then just 900 Lumens and I think that is not what you want.

What I said can be true or false, it is just my opinion.
-Tim
 
Last edited:
TimTom said:
I heard, that a XML-T6 gives you ~925 Lumens according to a datasheet at 3Amps.
For 11k Lumens you would need also around 12 of this LED with each running at 3Amps@3.7 volts and this is impossible to handle. The heat from the LED and the driver will be way to much for a good handheld Flashlight.. including the battery lifetime. Waaay to much.

BTW.: At 0.33A you will get about 100 Lumens. 100 * 9 is then just 900 Lumens and I think that is not what you want.

What I said can be true or false, it is just my opinion.
-Tim
Click to expand...


I said "11000 lumens" ;)

Maneged to get 5,5 AMP by using 12v psu.

I dont really care about battery life, 5 min battery time will be enough.

If i could get it up to like 13,5A it would be awsome
 
11k = 11000 ;D

Your LED is just rated for 3,3V and max 3A. A 12V psu will kill it without a voltage splitter or something like that.

If you are using a 3,7V 26650 battery with 5Ah and ~11 LEDS with each current at 3A you have a consumption by about.. let me think. 3 * 11 = 33A. Isnt that a little bit too much for the poor battery?

Tell me if I understood you wrong.
 
First thing, The batteries are to weak, Its running at 3.5 A with 3 newly charged (bad) 18650 Batteries. When hooked up to a psu its drawing 5.5A.
 
TimTom said:
11k = 11000 ;D

Your LED is just rated for 3,3V and max 3A. A 12V psu will kill it without a voltage splitter or something like that.

If you are using a 3,7V 26650 battery with 5Ah and ~11 LEDS with each current at 3A you have a consumption by about.. let me think. 3 * 11 = 33A. Isnt that a little bit too much for the poor battery?

Tell me if I understood you wrong.
Click to expand...

Its 9x t6 led´s in a flashlight. It says that its "11k lumen" which it isnt.
It worked fine with a 12v psu, since its running of 3x4V batteries normally.

Dont really want to max out the Leds but i want about 1.5A to each one.
 
11k lumens is equivalent to 1100 W (max. efficiency at around 100 lumens per Watt), for a typical high efficiency LED. Even at 8 V, this is about 140 A, which is too high for any handheld battery to handle.
 
bostjan said:
11k lumens is equivalent to 1100 W (max. efficiency at around 100 lumens per Watt), for a typical high efficiency LED. Even at 8 V, this is about 140 A, which is too high for any handheld battery to handle.
Click to expand...

Dont u mean 110W?
 
Should work by just getting new batteries, I dont know how the fuck i was thinking when i wrote this tread. 12v 5.5A is 66w to the flashlight driver which is good enough :)
Max To the Led´s would be 90w which is a bit too much.

thanks for the help guys
 
First of all the LM317 is a linear regulator and is inefficient and only rated for 1.5A. Id suggest a high current buck driver, i have a 9A version running a PT54 LED and it works well.

Second, the LM358 is a OpAmp not a regulator.

Thirdly, 9 LED's run at 3A each = 27A draw, at 3A the Vf of the LED is ~3.3V which means you must provide at least 89W.

Fourthly, nothing is 100% efficient, so you will have losses in heat that you will have the dissipate, especially the LED's.
 
Here goes my first post in this forum. :)
I have some experience with those flashlights. They are assembled as 3 parallel sets of 3 LEDs in series. As the OP stated they only draw about 3 amps with 3 fully charged 26650s. As expected the output is somewhat disappointing.
I re-soldered the wires that power the LED module to the driver board so that they completely bypass the circuitry on the board and supply the full voltage of the 3 cells to the LEDs. In this configuration the LEDs draw about 6.5 amps. The wires (original) that connect to the LEDs to the driver are very small so I'm sure they help control the current as to not over-drive the LEDs. With this mod drawing about 80 watts the light output is very good but of course it is only 1 mode.
I made an auction bid of $34 for another of these flashlights, not expecting to win of course. But win it I did anyway.
After drilling and tapping at 1/4-20 through the heads about halfway up the fins, I ran all-thread through the holes with a nut on each side to lock the all-thread in place. I then drilled another hole through side of the heads at the base where the tube threads are and ran the power wires through there, soldering them to the small LED feed wires inside the head. After sealing the tube hole with epoxy and wire hole and all-thread with silicone I used the all-thread to mount the pair in the grill of my SUV.
I wired these lights to come on with the high beams. They draw about 7 amps each at 14.4 volts with the engine running which is about 100 watts each. As you can imagine they absolutely blow away the 50 watt HID headlights. I have been using them for about 6 months and probably about 20 hours run time. I only use them for any length of time when the car is moving and thus supplying good cooling air flow to the fins. They haven't burned out yet. :)
 
jboyd said:
Here goes my first post in this forum. :)
I have some experience with those flashlights. They are assembled as 3 parallel sets of 3 LEDs in series. As the OP stated they only draw about 3 amps with 3 fully charged 26650s. As expected the output is somewhat disappointing.
I re-soldered the wires that power the LED module to the driver board so that they completely bypass the circuitry on the board and supply the full voltage of the 3 cells to the LEDs. In this configuration the LEDs draw about 6.5 amps. The wires (original) that connect to the LEDs to the driver are very small so I'm sure they help control the current as to not over-drive the LEDs. With this mod drawing about 80 watts the light output is very good but of course it is only 1 mode.
I made an auction bid of $34 for another of these flashlights, not expecting to win of course. But win it I did anyway.
After drilling and tapping at 1/4-20 through the heads about halfway up the fins, I ran all-thread through the holes with a nut on each side to lock the all-thread in place. I then drilled another hole through side of the heads at the base where the tube threads are and ran the power wires through there, soldering them to the small LED feed wires inside the head. After sealing the tube hole with epoxy and wire hole and all-thread with silicone I used the all-thread to mount the pair in the grill of my SUV.
I wired these lights to come on with the high beams. They draw about 7 amps each at 14.4 volts with the engine running which is about 100 watts each. As you can imagine they absolutely blow away the 50 watt HID headlights. I have been using them for about 6 months and probably about 20 hours run time. I only use them for any length of time when the car is moving and thus supplying good cooling air flow to the fins. They haven't burned out yet. :)
Click to expand...


Smart idea, about the mounting on the car :)

Well i tried with 3x 18650 and then it Was only 3amp i tried using a psu to power it and at 14v it Was about 70w.

,Victor
 
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