Thanks guys esp yobresal...I just got out of work...I had JUST enough for the groove2 and the lens! I can't wait till I get everything in and I can start the build. Exept the lens is coming from china -_- Only issue I forsee is that I've seen on the forums that heating the pins are bad for the diode...so how do I solder it? Just melt solder to the tip and flux the pins and pcb connections? And also...I have some arctic mx-4 leftover from my g73...and superglue...can I mix the two and use it to heatsink the board to the head? And as far as the goggles...I plan on getting some asap...by the time everything gets here I'll have a little money for them...
This method is also used when making wire-to-wire solders with small wire
Soldering diode pins takes a fraction of a second
Pre-tin BOTH the pins and the wire or solder pads
Use a small bit of flux on BOTH the pins and the wires/pads BOTH for the pre-tin and the final solder joint
I don't care if you use rosin core solder. USE THE FLUX!
Use a set of "extra hands" to align the pin with the wire/pad.
Make sure that they are side-by-side, touching, and secure
Get a small bit of solder on the tip of your soldering iron
"Touch" the melted solder on your iron to the pin to wire/pad joint
The solder will all flow together in a fraction of a second.
I recommend that you also use some shrink tubing to protect and reinforce the joint
You DO NOT "heat the joint" as with other solder jobs
You DO NOT place the solder
source anywhere near the solder job
Only the melted solder on the tip of your iron should approach the pin to wire/pad joint
If the solder does not flow immediately, back off and start again. Recheck all of your placements and supports
If you are new to soldering, I recommend that you get yourself an old PCB and some scrap wire (etc.). Practice the above procedure until you can get a good solder in a fraction of a second.
Peace,
dave