will this diy driver work for this diode?

[whitewhidow]

Hi there,

i found these diagrams here:

Will i be able to use this to power this diode:
PHR-805 HD diode OEM 405nm !!! HIGH POWER !! [PHR805] - $16.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store

this driver should put out 125mA, wich would bring the diode to about 130mw
is this correct?

the driver sayes it needs 7.2 volt, is this correct?, what battery's woould i use for this .

Do i need a glass lens, or will the regular aixiz one do?

Thx in advance

 

[lasersbee]

Hi there,

i found these diagrams here:

Will i be able to use this to power this diode:
PHR-805 HD diode OEM 405nm !!! HIGH POWER !! [PHR805] - $16.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store

this driver should put out 125mA, wich would bring the diode to about 130mw
is this correct?

the driver sayes it needs 7.2 volt, is this correct?, what battery's woould i use for this .

Do i need a glass lens, or will the regular aixiz one do?

Thx in advance

You'll need to do a little more research on the Forum....
your questions have been answered many times before...

You require at least 7.2Volts for the input of a Linear
Current adjustable Laser Diode Driver to supply the
405nm LD in question.

You can use 2pc 3.6V or 3.7V batteries to run that driver.
At 130mW you will be fine with an acrylic lens...


Jerry

 

[whitewhidow]

yes, i was pretty sure about averything, but i figured i'd ask to make sure.

And when people like yourself confirm this, then atleast im 100% sure.

So 2x18650 would be fine, would it be a problem hooking this up to a 9V battery? would i need to make changes to the driver?

also what kind of dummy load do i use for this ? how many diodes, i see people saying different stuff as far as the dummy load goes; would i use 6 1n4001 diodes for this ?

Blu ray laser diode ~4.5v (6 diodes X 0.7 =4.3)​

but this is for a 803t ? does the 805 require the same voltage?

Thx again laserbee

 

[lasersbee]

The 405nm LDs require the same voltage drop
across the LD to Lase.. They are essentially the same.

Yes... 6 Recitfier Diodes and a 1 Ohm resistor will do the
trick for a Dummy Test Load...

A standard 9Volt batter could be used but it would drain
rather quickly..


Jerry

 

[whitewhidow]

The 405nm LDs require the same voltage drop
across the LD to Lase.. They are essentially the same.

Yes... 6 LDs and a 1 Ohm resistor will do the trick for
a Dummy Test Load...

A standard 9Volt batter could be used but it would drain
rather quickly..


Jerry

would the 9v still give me a correct reading on the dummy load ?


edit: just found this: (coming from same page as the diagram and other info in this post)

Voltage needed by red LD 3v

Voltage needed by regulator to make it work 3v

Additional voltage to get long life between battery changes 1.2v.

Add that up and you get 7.2volts,

For a Blu-ray the LD needs 4.5v

Voltage needed by regulator to make it work 3v

Additional voltage to get long life between battery changes 1.2v.

Add that up and you get 9.0volts.

So i would NEED 9v? 7.2 would not cut it? is this correct?

how would i do this? 3x cr123?

 

[Cad602]

I've used 9volts before with mixed results - it drained so fast once that I changed the resistor in my driver - but I also changed the battery and *poof* -$40...I then used two 9V's in parallel and it worked a little better - But, I couldn't get the current I needed consistently, so I went and used two banks of 6AA's in parallel for my power supply then set the current - until I could get some 18650's....
That worked very well actually. It's a brick, almost portable, but it works well and delivers the needed current.

As long as the 9v's are fresh you should be okay on the dummy load..I would still get as much potential current on hand before setting the LM317...(2 or more in parallel?) but maybe it doesn't matter - ugh, Jerry?

cad602

 

[whitewhidow]

this is exactly the reason i ask these questions here, i dont want that *poof* to happen

 

[jib77]

Use a LM1117 instead of the LD317, it only requires about 1.2V over the diode voltage instead of 3V. But you will need to replace the electrolytic capacitor with a *ceramic* 10uF 10V or 16V for stability(example: TDK part# FK24Y5V1A106Z).

 

[whitewhidow]

Use a LM1117 instead of the LD317, it only requires about 1.2V over the diode voltage instead of 3V. But you will need to replace the electrolytic capacitor with a *ceramic* 10uF 10V or 16V for stability(example: TDK part# FK24Y5V1A106Z).

so if i make these changes, this would still require 4.5 + 1.2 + 1.2 volts

correct?

What batteries would i use.?

thx jib, im "new" here, but from what i can gather u are one of the driver specialists here.?

EDIT: from the original page, i am now confused, in the circuit i posted earlier, should i use a microfarad or 10 millifarad cap (in the drawing it sais mfd, but i believe the circuit actually calls for 10 microfarad?)

 

[Cyparagon]

Use a LM1117 instead of the LD317, it only requires about 1.2V over the diode voltage

Plus the Reference voltage of 1.25V. (you are running it in constant current configuration, right?)

 

[jib77]

Plus the Reference voltage of 1.25V. (you are running it in constant current configuration, right?)

Nope ... 1.25 is all. LDOs like the LM1117 work a little bit differently because of the internal transistor setup, they do not require the overhead of normal regulators. That's what makes them low drop out.

from the original page, i am now confused, in the circuit i posted earlier, should i use a microfarad or 10 millifarad cap (in the drawing it sais mfd, but i believe the circuit actually calls for 10 microfarad?)

Just use 10 microfarads (10uF). That is all that is needed for a stable driver. Use 2 li-ion cells like 16340's or 18650's.

 

[Cyparagon]

Only if you use it as a voltage regulator. According to the datasheet, there's a reference voltage of 1.25V you're forgetting about in addition to the 1.2V. This is dropped across the sense resistor.

 

[chipdouglas]

9vdc is a good voltage. 7.2vdc is the min.

9vdc via rectangular batt is not good. not enough capacity

7.2vdc is the min. if you have a good power source like a plug in unit.

7.2vdc is too low if you are using batteries because they will fall out of regulation under load.

3.6/3.7vdc batts x 2 work because at full charge they put out 4.2vdc for a total of 8.4vdc

michael.

 

[jib77]

Only if you use it as a voltage regulator. According to the datasheet, there's a reference voltage of 1.25V you're forgetting about in addition to the 1.2V. This is dropped across the sense resistor.

1.25V is all the overhead it needs and its only that high because it is needed for Vref in the feedback loop comparator. The reason the LM317 requires 3V overhead is because it is powering a Darlington array of transistors, where as a LDO is only using a single PNP transistor.

 

[whitewhidow]

that all makes about as much sense to me as that last line in your sig :undecided:

 

[BShanahan14rulz]

9vdc is a good voltage. 7.2vdc is the min.

9vdc via rectangular batt is not good. not enough capacity

7.2vdc is the min. if you have a good power source like a plug in unit.

7.2vdc is too low if you are using batteries because they will fall out of regulation under load.

3.6/3.7vdc batts x 2 work because at full charge they put out 4.2vdc for a total of 8.4vdc

michael.

Yeah, but 7.2V input is 2x3.6V, and at 3.6V, it's time to recharge your batteries, after which you will have 8.4V.