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FrozenGate by Avery

What temp do you solder at?

Yeah thats the only negative thing I've seen on this Aoyue is that the display only reads Celsius.
Nothing a quick google search cant take care of to convert that to Freedom units. ;)
 





CudaVert said:
So, what would be the easiest way to figure out the known temp of the iron? Would one of those infrared laser temperature guns work? Could i use a cheap harbor freight one or are those pretty inaccurate as well?
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IR guns don't work well on reflective stuff like metals generally, so i would not really trust them. The best way to measure the temperature would be to use a thermocouple, some multimeters have a input for one and make measurements easy.

What you could do with an IR thermometer is wicking up a small component like a ceramic capacitor on the tip of the iron using quite a bit of solder. The ceramic will heat up to the irons temperature (more or less) and you can get a reliable IR reading off of it. Toss the capacitor after ;)
 
Well i just got done using the soldering station and am pleased with how it performed.
Like I said, Ive never used anything other than a radio shack iron, so I didnt have much to compare it to. But, it made my little solder job way easier than last time i tried soldering.

I set it at 350 C and it worked perfect.
 

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diachi said:
Been meaning to try 63/37, someone recommended it to me a while ago - think it was someone on here. I use 60/40 - I REFUSE to use lead free - it's just dreadful to work with.

As for temperature ... who knows, whatever my iron runs at! Need to invest in a decent station/iron with temperature control at some point. Something with regular tips that I can find easily. No where in town sells tips for the iron I have just now - even the store that sells the irons...
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Ad a shaky hand and this lead free garbage solder I use no wonder I don't stand a chance.
No nice solder station for me, I just have a few Harbor Freight units and cant find tips there either at least last time I was there.
What causes these pointed tips to quickly wear down and turn into a nub? Cheap solder, non regulated heat or just a cheap iron?
 
GSS said:
Ad a shaky hand and this lead free garbage solder I use no wonder I don't stand a chance.
No nice solder station for me, I just have a few Harbor Freight units and cant find tips there either at least last time I was there.
What causes these pointed tips to quickly wear down and turn into a nub? Cheap solder, non regulated heat or just a cheap iron?
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Even cheap irons usually come with one extra tip. What do you mean wear down and turn into a nub? I have never seen this before. They can corrode over time and stop getting hot enough, be sure to tin the tip and wipe it on a sponge or with a damp cloth and keep it clean and the tips should last.

Alan
 
I just use a small 15W fixed iron with flux core lead free solder 4% Ag , Cu 0.5% , Sn 95.5%

Ive always used paraffin wax pellets to clan the tip as I use it xD
 
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The pointed tips on both my irons just wore down and are now just little rounded tips. This is with not much use as I don't even do much soldering. I tin them before use and I always wipe them down after use before they cool down?
 
Hi,
solder 63/37 Kester brand and a temp control iron pointed tip set to 375 degrees . tin both contact points , flux then just touch them for a second or two you don't need much. Sorry a little late ...

Rich:)
 

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GSS said:
The pointed tips on both my irons just wore down and are now just little rounded tips. This is with not much use as I don't even do much soldering. I tin them before use and I always wipe them down after use before they cool down?
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Well that is a strange one, maybe the Chinese are using a new metal alloy that doesn't work well for a soldering iron.

Alan
 
What metal are the soldering tips usually made from. Its non magnetic and looking at the tip now its beyond rounded its like its porous and just deteriorating away. Thats the only way I can explain it. The iron itself is a 30W Harbor Freight.
 
The tips are made of copper and iron plated (industry standard) and are thin plated with nickel and chromium to resist corrosion, I just read that the lead free solder doesn't help prevent corrosion and the tips will corrode faster if that's what you use, especially the stuff made in China. I suggest you change to 60/40 or 63/37.

Alan
 
Pi R Squared said:
The tips are made of copper and iron plated (industry standard) and are thin plated with nickel and chromium to resist corrosion, I just read that the lead free solder doesn't help prevent corrosion and the tips will corrode faster if that's what you use, especially the stuff made in China. I suggest you change to 60/40 or 63/37.

Alan
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Sounds good as believe me like I said they don't get much use and I even don't leave them plugged long as i'm working. I'm curious to see if I can file them to a point again and see if they get hot enough if I do.:beer:
 
Since this thread has grown from just solder temps. to soldering in general, I thought I'd share a link to a thread from a while ago that contained a lot of good info. regarding all things solder.

soldering iron -wanted-

For a great solder, look to post #72, Jmillerdoc mentions some that he really liked, and he even sent samples of it to members for free.
It's called "Cardas Quad-Eutectic", and in my limited experience, it's definitely the best I've used, especially when combined with Flaminpyro's excellent flux.
 
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I got some of that solder from Jmillerdoc. It was in the laser package that ha started and circulated around to vets a couple of years ago, It is good solder. I think it had some silver in it.
 
BowtieGuy said:
Since this thread has grown from just solder temps. to soldering in general, I thought I'd share a link to a thread from a while ago that contained a lot of good info. regarding all things solder.

soldering iron -wanted-

For a great solder, look to post #72, Jmillerdoc mentions some that he really liked, and he even sent samples of it to members for free.
It's called "Cardas Quad-Eutectic", and in my limited experience, it's definitely the best I've used, especially when combined with Flaminpyro's excellent flux.
Click to expand...
The best post was #77 Bowtie:whistle:
All this time I forgot Pman sent me some solder in one of his usual box of goodies:o
Pete if you see this what kind is it?
 
hi
63/37 solder is the best for this hobby, it flows to a liquid instantly and does not solidify fast that would cause it to cold solder or emulsify ..Kester 63/37 in a 1 lb.roll is worth it in a great build. Better to leave the 60/40 solder to all your plumbing need for it flows at a higher temp with propane or an acetylene torch . i use 60/40 leaded solder in work for the last 30 years it does not compare to 63/37 at all for what we use it for



Rich:)
 
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